
Class _ 

Book._J\L 

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^ A /" 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIR 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT 
SAUNTERINGS 




The Portiuncula at Assisi 

The birthplace of the Franciscan order. It stands within the walls of a 

freat Church in the valley below the ridge on which is Assisi. Here 
t. Francis heard the answer to the question what to do with his life in 
the Gospel from the ancient missal for the Festival of St. Matthias, 
St. Matthew x:7-19. A suggestive place of pilgrimage 
for a modern San Franciscan. 



SOME 

WORLD- CIRCUIT 

SAUNTERINGS 



BY 



WILLIAM FORD NICHOLS 




PAUL ELDER AND COMPANY 
PUBLISHERS • SAN FRANCISCO 



Copyright 1913 
By Paul Elder & Company 



o 



^^^ 



O)CI.A358801 



TO THE VENERABLE ARCHDEACON JOHN ABBOTT 
EiMERY, CHAIRMAN, AND THE COMMITTEE OF 
THE CLERGY AND LAITY AS REPRESENTATIVES 
OF SEVERAL THOUSAND WHO CO-OPERATED 
WITH THEM IN ARRANGING THE CELEBRATION 
OF THE TWENTIETH ANNIVERSARY OF MY EPIS- 
COPATE, THE FESTIVAL OF SAINT JOHN BAPTIST, 
24 JUNE, 1910, ON A SIGNAL SCALE FOR THE FUNDS 
OF THE DIOCESE OF CALIFORNIA, AND IN MAKING 
THESE SAUNTERINGS POSSIBLE. THE REV. DR. 
JOHN BAKEWELL, PRESIDENT OF THE STANDING 
COMMITTEE; THE REV. D. CHARLES GARDNER, 
DEAN OF THE CONVOCATION OF SAN JOSE; THE 
REV. W. R. H. HODGKIN, DEAN OF THE CONVO- 
CATION OF SAN FRANCISCO; MR. A. N. DROWN, 
CHANCELLOR OF THE DIOCESE; MR. W. A. M. 
VAN BOKKELEN, TREASURER OF THE DIOCESE; 
MR. WILLIAM H. CROCKER, MR. WILLIAM B. BOURN, 
MR. WILLIAM MINTZER, MR. E. D. BEYLARD; 
MRS. L. P. MONTEAGLE, PRESIDENT OF THE 
WOMAN'S AUXILIARY; MRS. G. H. KELLOGG, 
PRESIDENT OF THE HOUSE OF CHURCHWOMEN; 
MRS. G. W. GIBBS, MRS. G. A. POPE, 
MRS. W. S. TEVIS, MRS. J. G. SMITH. 

"If you vouchsafe the acceptance lis yours, 

if the reader can picke out either use or 

content tis his and I am pleaded." 

— The World Encompassed. 



FOREWORD 

NOTES of travel are so numerous and world-circuiting 
is so common by tireless tourists as well as by 
wireless messages — justifying the mot that ''world'* 
ought really to be spelled ''whirled'' — that the Saunterer 
in this publication has more in mind a sort of Souvenir 
for those who were the prime movers in arranging for 
his most happy trip, than the likelihood of any wider 
circle of readers. He has put together these memoranda 
from the columns of the Pacific Churchman and the 
Spirit of Missions, with the thought that they may reach 
some interested in, the Journeyings who may 
not have had access to those periodicals. 



CONTENTS 



Page 

Foreword v 

The Start. Jottings on the Way to Naples 3 

Rome 12 

Assisi, Perugia, Florence 20 

Athens 28 

Constantinople 36 

Alexandria, Cairo 41 

The Nile Trip 47 

Cairo, Egyptian Museum, University of Old Cairo 54 

Land of Goshen, Beirut, Lebanon, Baalbek 61 

Anti-Lebanon, The River Abana, Damascus . 68 

A Religious Railroad, Sea of Galilee, Capernaum 74 

Mount of Beatitudes, Nazareth, Esdraelon, Carmel 81 

Up to Jerusalem 88 

Bethlehem, Jericho, The Dead Sea, The Jordan 94 

Good Friday and Easter Day in Jerusalem 100 

Jaffa, The Sea, Syracuse, Biserta, Marseilles . 106 

Avignon, Paradoxical Paris 112 

London Hospitality 118 

In and About London 124 

Jauntings in Britain 130 

Waterloo, Berlin Ways 136 

St. Petersburgh 142 

Moscow 147 

The Trans-Siberian Trip 153 

Shanghai and Thereabouts 159 

Chinese Missionaries at Work 165 

Chinese Missionaries at Play 172 

Japanese Harbor Impressions 183 

Ploughing the Pacific 189 

Honolulu and the Home-Coming .... 194 

Index 205 



VII 



ILLUSTRATIOISS 



Facing 

The Portiuncula at Assisi .... Title Page*^ 

View of Gibraltar from the Sea .... 8^^ 

Palatine Hill 14^ 

Rare Specimens of Autograph Writings of St. Francis 20 -" 

Mars Hill, Athens 30* 

Mosque of St. Sophia, Constantinople . . . SQ^^ 

Relief of Cleopatra and Son, at Denderah . 50"^ 

Chief Dragoman, Mohammed 54'^ 

The Saunterer's Sole Personal Effort with a Kodak 58 

Beirut 64" 

Damascus 70'' 

Capernaum 78*^ 

View of Haifa from the Sea 82"^ 

Jaffa Gate, Jerusalem 88"^ 

The Jordan 98-^ 

Greek Patriarch of Jerusalem 100 -- 

Jaffa 106 

Grave of Lafayette 114- 

FuLHAM Palace 118'' 

Mural Tablet in Ampthtt.t. Church, Bedfordshire, 

England 126^ 

MucKRoss House 130 ' 

"Fox How," Lake Country, England . 132 -^ 

Field of Waterloo 136' 

Cathedral of the Resurrection, St. Petersburgh 144-^ 

Kremlin, Moscow 148 

"Catching a Tartar" 156 ^ 

St. John's College, Shanghai 160 "^ 

Laying the Cornerstone of Catechist School, Wusm, 

China 168 

House Boat, China 174- 

Mohkanshan Cottage 180 

Steamer "Tenyo Maru" 190 

Bishop's House, San Francisco 198 '^ 



IX 



k 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT 
SAUNTERINGS 



THE START • JOTTINGS ON 
THE WAY TO NAPLES 

" /^^ aunter" some think comes from Sainte terre, 
^^^ which would make a saunterer Hterally one 
^^ who visits the Holy Land. Whether this can 
^s^^ pass muster with the "latest unabridged" 
or not we need not stop to inquire, but the sen- 
timent of such a derivation, even if it is imaginary, 
seems to happily dictate that particular word for use 
here. Having been asked to tell something of our 
trip around the world, the dates and itinerary of 
which were shaped a good deal by adjustment to a 
visit to Jerusalem at Eastertime, the "sauntering" 
in the sense just mentioned seems a not inapt title 
term. And then when one's big-hearted Diocese has 
sent him and his family on such a "leave," putting 
an ample letter of credit in his pocket, starting him 
out, so to speak, under Church auspices, and his 
point of view must be everywhere that of a parson, 
and so lead to the constant "natural selection" of 
places and phases of life of historic or present day 
rehgious interest, and the impressions gathered from 
it all must perforce be colored a good deal by their 
bearings upon the faiths of the world, it has seemed 
to make one in this sense a saunterer during the 
whole world circuit as he came in contact with many 
lands held by their respective devotees to be holy. 
Books of travel, like their writers, may be said to 
"girdle the earth." And the earth girdles the sun 
with a modern kodak. All in a general way may be 
included in the sauntering class. But perhaps even 
if we attempt nothing of that kind here, we may 
interpret sauntering a httle more technically in keep- 

[3] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

ing ourselves rather instinctively to jottings of 
religious aspects of the cyclorama, by no means 
promising, however, always to omit experiences that 
would certainly put some strain upon the term if 
they were called solemn. 

It was the happiest kind of a God-speed to go 
directly from that memorable Convention week in 
January, with its Consecration of Bishop Sanford for 
San Joaquin and the laying of the cornerstone of 
the new Divinity School building to really begin the 
permanent Cathedral Close, added to the usual 
absorbing interests of those dynamic days for the 
Diocese. There was a strength and joy in the kind 
deeds, good wishes and prayers expressed which have 
seemed to bless the whole trip. Then came the 
good-byes at the Ferry and Mole and the "Overland 
Limited," with its unhmited sleep ,and thorough 
rest, after the busy days and nights. Then the 
last days before steamer under the hospitable CaU- 
fornia roof of Mrs. James Cunningham in New York. 
Then on Saturday, February fourth, on the Koenig 
Albert in cabins which bore marks of afifectionate 
thought, and with a sheaf of parting messages, the 
pilgrims, including Mrs. Nichols and Miss Margaret, 
said the final good-byes to the group of clergy and 
friends and were soon on the Atlantic — and still on 
their feet! The second day (Sunday) was not 
deemed propitious for a public service on the ship, 
the water being somewhat rough, but we had the 
service by ourselves in our cabin. And now to leave 
these details of starting, one of the first reflections 
which an extended journey is apt to bring is upon 
the question of the effect of travel-Sundays upon 
habits of worship. For, however much we may wish 
to avoid unnecessary travel on Sunday, on extended 
trips, especially at sea, it is impossible to avoid Sunday 
travel. Furthermore, of course, we cannot shut our 

[41 



JOTTINGS ON THE WAY TO NAPLES 

eyes to the fact that there are many people who do 
not have regular habits of church-going, travel or no 
travel. Without entering here into the matter of 
non-attendance at worship as such, how many there 
are whose travel-Sundays take them away from the 
wonted routine and places of worship, in all the 
thronged thoroughfares of modern tourists, and how 
many, if a census could be taken on any given Sun- 
day, say in the thick of the season, would be found 
with no provision for public worship at all! This 
must tell sooner or later upon the home ways and 
probably does not a httle in the long run to swell the 
numbers of non-churchgoers. The habit once broken 
in upon yields gradually to more and more inno- 
vation until practically reHnquished or only very 
rarely in evidence. But what can be done about it, 
so far as it is affected by travel ? The world trip 
itself shows happily that a good deal has been done 
about it. To find ships provided with Prayer Books 
and Hymnals, and Captains themselves on occasion 
reading the services, and officers making it part of 
their duty to arrange hours, places and choirs, and 
many passengers in attendance, sometimes, too, 
those who seldom go to church at home, shows that 
some of the good traditions of our earliest American 
Colonial voyagers, when there was a Chaplain Fran- 
cis Fletcher and a Chaplain Robert Hunt, have been 
kept up on the water. And on land foreign Chap- 
laincies of our own Church and of the Church of 
England enable the traveler who will try to arrange 
stop-overs accordingly, to have the comfort of Early 
Celebrations and other Sunday worship. At Dalny, 
for example, in South Manchuria, it was interesting 
to be told that the EngHsh Chaplaincy is maintained 
by the personal contribution of the King of England, 
George the Fifth. Just how public provision for 
services could be made in railroad trains, on our 

[5] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

Overland Limited, for instance, is somewhat prob- 
lematical. We are familiar with Church cars, but 
they are generally, after all, chiefly for use standing 
still at stations along the Une which lack other local 
provisions. We saw one car in Russia marked with 
a cross and dome and a sort of bell turret, standing 
out from the roof, and so making it a conspicuous 
feature in a train which suggested en route services, 
though the regular trans-Siberian trains had no such 
appointment so far as we saw. The time may come 
when in some way our alert railroad caterers to the 
pubhc wants may find some practicable solution of 
the problem and in addition to all the other "com- 
forts of home" advertise in their alluring folders, 
"On the Sundays 'en route,' provision is made for 
pubhc worship." In the meantime it behooves 
Christian people to read the Service by themselves 
when other opportunity does not offer, and to plan 
beforehand, so far as possible, for reserving Sunday 
dates for staying over at points — say in foreign lands 
— ^where they can learn that there are services in 
their own tongue. And as the volume of travel in- 
creases, and everywhere we are met with the evidence 
of the large percentage of tourists from America, 
surely we should think not only of the danger of 
having our own Sunday ways unsettled and of 
meeting the danger warily and resolutely, but of 
turning our thankfulness for pleasure and preserva- 
tion on land and water to account by interesting 
ourselves in efforts for those, like the sailors, to whose 
faithful custody we commit ourselves. Why not 
make it a maxim at the end of every voyage, for 
example, to couple with the request for the use of 
the "Thanksgiving for a Safe Return from Sea" a 
thank offering for the work of the Seamen's Church 
Institute of America, or some kindred object. It is 
a good time to feel and show gratitude. 

[6] 



JOTTINGS ON THE WAY TO NAPLES 

The first land we spied was the Azore Islands 
with their green slopes dotted with cottages from 
which many immigrants come to America, especially 
to Massachusetts. Whether they land anywhere near 
Plymouth Rock or not, they surely embark from 
some pretty notable rocks of their own that must 
make the seasoned navigator as well as the tender- 
foot passenger glad when there is no fog to hide their 
whereabouts. Church spires seem to pin the villages 
to the sky and some of the islands are named after 
Saints, as St. Michael's, a survival as in California 
history, from the hagiology of the early explorers. 

Gibraltar came next with our elastic step ashore, 
after the deck-round tramps. It is, perhaps, a 
reluctant tribute to the success of the modern display 
advertiser, that one half-expected to be met with an 
argument at the wharf for a life insurance policy 
"soHd as the rock." However, we were soon in its 
jostHng street throngs and craning our necks to see 
the historic galleries grim with their association of 
battle battering. The courteous Enghsh command- 
ant explained that visitors were not allowed to climb 
to the heights for closer inspection — and a world trip 
shows one how shy of spies our world powers have 
become — and so we were not able to emulate certain 
of our best esteemed California folk of whom it is 
currently reported that on a honeymoon trip "lang 
syne" they not only were permitted to see all there 
was to be seen in the rock-hewn corridors for cannon, 
but even with a youthful alacrity of descent, shd 
down one of the precipitous ways, chutcrlike, with 
astonishment to the good Enghsh guardians of 
the Gateway of the Mediterranean! The roadway 
through the neutral belt between Enghsh and 
Spanish territory just at the hour when we were 
there was ahve with workmen returning to their 
Spanish homes from Gibraltar and each one's pock- 

[7] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

ets were "patted over" as a persuasive against 
smuggling. We were fortunate, too, in witnessing 
the ceremony of the "Key" — the formal locking of 
the town Gate — and the "Retreat," with a running 
explanation from an old army pensioner, who hap- 
pened to be standing by. Our " Gibraltar day " gave 
us a taste, too, of all the stronghold's natural and 
historic flavor, the rehsh of which must ever be espec- 
ially piquant to Britannia. 

Algiers, where we next embarked, was African 
soil and afforded much forecast of the far Orient in 
types and garbs of humanity, and narrowness of 
street and characteristic street scenes, especially in 
the old town. Differing from most seaports — may it 
be some day not from San Francisco — in having rather 
an attractive water-front, with long hues of arcaded 
structures, once in the city, on a first visit at any 
rate, the desire is to look a dozen ways at once in 
order not to lose the novelties that treat Occidental 
eyes on all sides. The guide talks of some of them, 
and takes you to the ordinary rug factory, and the 
slippery-lane-hke maze of Algiers where young Algiers 
swarms Uke bees but where the bee-simile must not 
in all accuracy be understood to suggest either the 
honey or the fragrance of flower meads. He, how- 
ever, would be what Mrs. Partington used to call a 
"polygon" of a talker if he could begin to answer all 
the questions in which the avid tourist finds himself 
plunged by what he sees. The flowing robes of 
humanity, as deftly managed by the dock stevedore 
to keep them from getting tangled up with the heavy 
freight he handles, as by the statuesque dandy strol- 
ling the sidewalk, in their variety and splashes, 
rather than dashes, of color suggest something like 
the "flags of all nations" and the first impulse is to 
ask from what section does this one or that one come. 
But over all the stir and hues of face and raiment, 










S-2 « "' 



l^gs 



J 



JOTTINGS ON THE WAY TO NAPLES 

stand out those mosques with their needle-Uke mina- 
rets to prick the conscience of Christendom as it 
recalls what North Africa once was — North Africa 
in the early Christian ages being that strip of Africa 
along the Mediterranean west of and distant from 
Egypt which was the name of the region about the 
Nile and its delta. What other reUgious conditions 
might exist in North Africa today, if the traditions 
of its Cyprian of Carthage and its Augustine of 
Hippo had been maintained and an aggressive mis- 
sionary spirit had been at work through the ages 
with that maxim of St. Cyprian in the plague for the 
watchword of its propaganda — Respondere natalibus — 
in substance, "Be true to your Christian birthright." 
There is many a lesson here to any modern Chris- 
tianity which fails to catch or keep the quickstep of 
the Apostohc missionary order, "Go." 

Our propitious voyage — for we seemed to have 
had favored winter days from beginning to end, and 
that just after a severe storm on Atlantic and Medi- 
terranean — ended at Naples, for which most of the 
ship's company was booked, though the Koenig Albert 
went on to Genoa. We took the earhest opportunity 
to get, what we made our object whenever we could 
in visiting cities of interest as the best way to learn 
the map, the proverbial "birdseye view." This, as 
so many well know, happens to be hterally a church 
"point of view." We drove to the well known eleva- 
tion dominating the city where are the Castle of 
St. Elmo and the old Carthusian Monastery of San 
Martino, now taken over by the Government, with 
only two of the former sixty monks left in the resi- 
dence, one priest and one lay brother. The old cells 
can hardly know them much longer, as one is now 
ninety-four and the other eighty-three, and then the 
whole pile of buildings will be only a museum of rich 
marbles and other ornaments with serviceless altars 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

and voiceless stalls and empty treasure shelves. As 
one hears the hum of Hfe coming up from the city 
below and the wind whistles around the cloisters, it 
all seems a mournful requiem over the graves of the 
departed brothers and the shrines of the departed 
worship. From a balcony of the monastery at dizzy 
projection over the city, is a view of Vesuvius, of 
that wonderful bay and of the pervading charm of 
sky and sea and sunny slope that all the wealth of 
photography and all the word-or-brush painting can 
never in themselves fully visualize. One must sim- 
ply stand there and look — and look by the hour 
he can. 

And then the day's visit to Pompeii shows what 
for so long a period after that fateful day in anno 
Domini 79 — a few years after the destruction of 
Jerusalem by armies as this was by ashes — was 
under the surface, and so hidden from any "birdseye 
view," as old Herculaneum is today under the culti- 
vated fields and hamlets. Three days before we 
were at Pompeii, the excavator found a skeleton with 
some fifty pieces of money near the old descending 
roadbed which is rutted by chariot wheels and not 
far from a principal gate of entrance. "Probably 
some Pompeiian trying to escape with his cash" was 
the explanation suggested. So anew is an incident 
of those dire days made graphic as Bulwer Lytton's 
pen has pictured them. And while as one threads 
the uncovered streets and notes for good and evil 
the marks of the dwellers along them in what is left 
of their shops and homes and temples, he can hardly 
fail to catch the true archaeological spirit. There is, 
too, a haunting of the helpless terror of the people, 
especially when one passes through the museum with 
its exact moulds of human forms preserved in ashes 
just as they were distorted and writhing in extremus. 
To anyone who has seen a great modern city under 

[10] 



JOTTINGS ON THE WAY TO NAPLES 

its powerlessness before an earthquake there comes 
quickened thanksgivings amid such surroundings, for 
its escape. 

From Naples the next natural realization is that 
it is on one of the roads all of which "lead to Rome," 
but if any are interested to follow us there, its 
"sauntering" must be left to another story. 



[11] 



ROME 

IN THE development of modern special itineraries 
some day, probably, it will be made easy and 
guideful for those who enjoy sauntering over 
sacred pathways to exactly follow the land 
course St. Paul took to Rome on his first recorded 
journey there. There could be the "PuteoK Inn" 
where the tourist could tarry seven days if he wished, 
as St. Paul with the brethren he found there after his 
sea experiences. With his modern "hurry fever," 
however, the aforesaid tourist would probably only 
tarry long enough to catch the next conveyance. 
Then he might be sent on his way covering the same 
ground as that St. Paul must have covered — we 
heard of one gentleman who had secured a competent 
guide to visit all the points in Asia Minor mentioned 
in connection with St. Paul's missionary journeys 
there. There would be the " Apii Forum " and " The 
Three Taverns" en route. And so the approach to 
Rome would have in itself a Scriptural association. 
As it is, the railroad from Naples carries one past 
many places of ecclesiastical note, such as Aquino, 
the birthplace of Thomas Aquinas and Gassasa, with 
its historical Benedictine Monastery. And the many 
old castles and strongholds on hills go back to a time 
when impregnable positions and thick walls and good 
ranges of outlook were the illustration of conditions 
under which "The strong man armed keepeth his 
palace." But Rome itself is the goal and the fastest 
express is not any too fast for the eager passenger who 
is to have his first experience of the Eternal City. 
When it comes to justifying ^the name of " City of the 
Seven|Hills," however, the approach to it does not 
altogether accredit the hill features, as one who in the 

[12] 



ROME 

classical course of his boyhood days from laboring 
over their names has imagined them against the sky- 
hne. When a San Franciscan, moreover, speaks of a 
city of hills, he means hills — hills you know for hills 
when you climb them, hills that no filling in between 
has dwindled into mere city undulations. This, how- 
ever, is only a reflection, not a criticism, because 
Rome is so old that no one could complain justly if 
her hills have been worn off some by the attrition of 
time. Our comfortable hotel, the "Quirinal," was 
so called after the old hill of that name, on which it 
stood, but where the "Quirinal" hiU left off and its 
neighbors of the seven began you would have to dig 
some to find out. 

To write anything about Rome itself there must 
be a progressive process of elimination to begin with. 
Unless you are to become an oldest inhabitant you 
must eliminate many points of interest you cannot 
possibly have time to see. Of those you do see you 
must eliminate many that you cannot possibly take 
in intelligently; of those you do take a good look at 
you must eHminate many you cannot remember, and 
of those you remember you must cut out many — 
some because guide books are cheap and full and 
known by heart almost, and some because space and 
patience have their limits. The hope must be to 
"pick and choose " and one recalls how much has been 
done for us in Rishop Kip's charming "Christmas 
Hohdays in Rome" among many books. 

Everyone does not have the advantage of finding 
old friends in residence at Rome like our Professor 
Fairclough with Mrs. Fairclough and their daughter 
of Stanford University and our model Warden of All 
Saints ' Church, Palo Alto, and of feehng the pride in 
his having been called to spend a Sabbatical Year of 
furlough in a position of oversight at the American 
School of Archaeology. Our dehghtful social visits 

[131 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

at their home and through them the attendance at a 
Washington's Birthday reception given by the Rev. 
and Mrs. de Nancrede with its opportunity to see 
other friends, old and new, I need not dwell. It was 
all that touch of " California and the flag " in a foreign 
land which goes to the heart of the wanderer. But 
to have Dr. Fairclough, with his rare classical attain- 
ments and antiquarian authority as a guide around 
the Forum and the Palatine Hill, experting some of 
the most recent finds, and maldng the Caesars live 
and move in them again before us was a kind of sight- 
seeing that cannot be Baedekerized. It is only to be 
hoped that on his return he may be persuaded to 
afford wider audiences of our church people and 
citizens Hke enjoyment in the stereopticon lectures 
which he has made so full of interest on other fields. 
The mere mention of a few places of many will 
quicken the zest to know more than any guide or 
book tells, and whet the desire to hear of them from 
his own lips: the prehistoric memorial of Romulus, 
still lower than the excavated level of the Forum, the 
House of Vestal Virgins, Altar where Julius Caesar's 
body was cremated, old church near Palatine Hill, 
School of Pages on Palatine Hill where the celebrated 
Graffito — or rude caricature — of the Crucifixion was 
found traced on the wall. House of the Father of 
Tiberius, to say nothing of the outHning of the great 
Palaces of the Caesars. Then what an interest cen- 
ters about that Church of St. Gregory, not far off, 
from which St. Augustine, the missionary, with his 
monks started at the behest of Gregory for that jour- 
ney which may be said to have found for its goal 
Uttle St. Martin's at Canterbury, which is so well 
known to American as well as Enghsh pilgrims. 
Some day let us hope that memorable journey will 
be discovered to be not a "family-jar" matter but a 
pride of blood-relationship between the catholic- 

[141 




» b i->B S-ca =^B » sr 

[ Be. <^^s o.£.ri B W 
1 3 O- • «• 



ROME 

minded of both Roman and Anglican antecedents, as 
it really is. The Saint belongs to both. 

Of all the ecclesiastical and historical objects of 
interest associated with St. Peter's — and no one needs 
to be told how encyclopaedic they are — we went the 
usual absorbing round, wishing, as usual, to stop over 
some of them hours rather than by the cadence meas 
ure of the tourist trot. An answer once given to the 
question, "How far can one see with the naked eye 
on the ocean ?" was "A good ways if you include the 
Sun and Moon and Stars!" So it might be said you 
can see a good deal, if you call it seeing to "do" 
notable churches, galleries, museums, or even ceme- 
teries, at the ratthng pace that an accommodating 
guide can take you, if he is by your enforced itinerary 
instructed to get you through so much in such a time. 
It is not the guide's fault. It is nothing short of a 
real accomphshment on his part which ought to evoke 
admiration. We read a good deal first and last as 
to what tourists think of their guides. It would be 
entertaining if some day a guide were raised up to 
write a book on what guides think of their "Comet" 
— and a punster might so far forget himself as to add 
"Go it" — tourists. There was, however, one thing 
that above all others we set out to see, and one thing 
which is certainly excelled by nothing thereabouts 
in vital interest, and that was the famous "Vatican 
Manuscript" of the New Testament, written in the 
"Uncial," or large Capital Greek, and one of the very 
oldest authorities for our Bible in the New Testa- 
ment. Most carefully preserved in the Pope's great 
Vatican Ubrary, which gives it its name, to look upon 
its great page in the large handsomely bound volume 
is a privilege which a Bible student would not will- 
ingly forego, and yet in most cases I presume it loses 
its great perspective in "Seeing Rome" and it is 
advisable to prompt any guide with the especial direc- 

[151 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

tion to put one in the way of seeing it. There was a 
time when it was not shown and even the distin- 
guished New Testament critic, Tischendorf, who was 
instrumental in bringing to Hght another great early 
manuscript of the New Testament, known as the 
"Sinaitic," because found at an old monastery on 
Mount Sinai, when it was practically consigned to a 
waste paper basket, and now preserved in St. Peters- 
burg — even Tischendorf was only allowed access 
to this Vatican Manuscript under most rigid hmita- 
tions. Since his time, however, there is not only its 
opening to pubHc inspection, but it has had photo- 
graphic reproduction page by page. It is an inter- 
esting fact that each of the great Gathohc branches 
of Christendom have in their possession at least one 
of the five early Uncial Manuscripts of the New 
Testament. There is one in the British Museum, 
known as the "Alexandrian", for the EngHsh Church, 
besides the Vatican of Rome and the Sinaitic of the 
Russian Church mentioned above. And here it may 
not be amiss to mention for the benefit of any who 
may wish to know in detail about these and other 
copies of their Bible, a book which is not so technical 
as to be of interest chiefly to critics, but which in its 
clearness and fullness and approval of scholars is a 
valuable recently-edited hand-book for any Bible 
student: Our Bible and the Ancient Manuscripts, by 
Kenyon. 

We drove out the " Appian Way" associated with 
the footsteps of St. Paul, past the Domine quo vadis 
Church associated with St. Peter as is the Church of 
St. Peter-in-chains elsewhere which we visited to see 
the original of Michael Angelo's Moses. Whatever 
may be the disposition of the modern mind towards 
the question of omitting Hebrew from the prescribed 
course for Holy Orders, every time one looks at the 
"horns" in the copies of that weU-known statue of 

[16] 



ROME 

Moses, he is reminded that they have a bearing upon 
the knowledge of Hebrew. Moses, a Hebrew of the 
Hebrews, is held up to the modern generations of 
library and drawing-room and museums and church 
habitues, as having horns on his forehead because the 
great artist, Michael Angelo, had no accurate training 
in the language Moses had on his tongue. If he had 
he would not have translated karnayim, "horned" 
instead of "shining" or "dazzUng," as we are told 
he was when he came down veiled from the mountain 
of fire. We visited the house St. Paul is said to have 
occupied and were assured that some good authorities 
beheve it is so in answer to that query which is so 
irrepressible in close identifications, Would St. Paul 
recognize it any more readily than Moses would "the 
horns ?" 

The Appian Way leads out to the Catacombs of 
St. Gallixtus and it is significant of the world-wide 
concourse of visitors there that the parties for thread- 
ing the magic-hke passages are grouped by their 
speech, guides of many tongues being needed to con- 
duct them. The monks from a neighboring Trappist 
Monastery well meet this need. Not the least of new 
experiences in visiting old points of Church note is 
the personal opportunity to meet some of the monks. 
It may be that it further confirms the good brothers 
of the Trappist Order in the singular merit of the 
silence which they so rigidly impose upon their day's 
routine to be exposed to the tongue-thrumming of the 
ordinary sight-seer. But a most kindly brother, 
"Brother Henry," took us about and with a gentle 
manner and such reverent tone, especially when he 
had occasion to speak of "Our Blessed Lord," that 
it all harmonized with the sacred avenues of death 
£ind suggestions of "the noble army of martyrs," and 
you felt you were with a man of God as a true mon- 
astery product. And no habitual duty with the more 

[17] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

or less matter-of-fact groups he constantly takes on 
the customary round — which, by the way, only 
covers a small part of all the tombs — and no breeding 
of famiUarity with the Catacombs, which he could 
probably thread without the tapers, had indurated 
into professionahsm his real sentiment for the place. 
There is a striking subject for some painter to convey 
to those who cannot see the Catacombs for them- 
selves the picture of a holy man with the taper in the 
gloom and memento mori of it all seeming to ideahze 
his face with something of the very nohilis — which 
we translate "noble," but which conveys in the 
original of the Te Deum the sense of "Shining army 
of martyrs" — as he leads you through their caver- 
nous resting-places. It at any rate seems far more 
to edification than some of the artistically arranged 
skeletons of monks you sometimes find shown abroad 
propped up in full habit in chambers of the dead. 

Two of the hills that have survived as hills, and 
no mistake, answer the excellent purpose of coigns 
of vantage for the outlook of the city, the Janiculan 
and the Pincian, and from them the map is spread 
before the eyes of the comparatively small aiea that 
scaled by its importance in shaping human affairs is 
measured by eras rather than by acres. Roma writ- 
ten in reverse is Amor and it defies imagination to 
conjecture what all Roman history would have been 
if its chapters had shown the full working of that 
principle which Bishop Westcott said had never had 
wide experiment in the affairs of State, the principle 
of hve to fellowman. Certainly it would have been 
a great reversal. And so Colosseum and Pantheon 
and Arches of Triumph and Warrior-statues and 
Capitohne Hill and all the other marks and monu- 
ments of the polemic past which the itinerary takes 
in recall one from Utopia to the carriage for the 
"next thing." 

[18] 



ROME 

Americans are apt to have their attention called 
to decorations in the great Church of St. Maria Mag- 
giore made of some of the first gold brought from our 
newly discovered country and presented to the Pope 
by Ferdinand and Isabella. This is, of course, "com- 
paratively modern" and even Twentieth Century 
Rome has an interest which must not be overlooked 
in the most assiduous rummaging around in the past. 
Side by side withtHadrian's Castle of St. Angelo were 
some modern structures of staff for the approaching 
celebration of the jubilee of the Constitution of 
Modern Italy, and but a short drive from the land- 
marks of Cicero and Justinian is the great new 
Building of the Law Courts. In the city preserving 
with proud custodianship what the sculptors and 
builders of Augustan ages have left, the most con- 
conspicuous and extensive memorial of all is the one 
just dedicated to the memory of Victor Emmanuel. 
And along the streets where Roman chariots used to 
rumble were posted flaming notices of a coming 
"Aviation Meet," which might have taken for its 
motto that of a college class of lang syne from Horace 
— ''nee tenui penna, "Not on feeble wing." 

The spell of the "Eternal City" is stilljthere for 
the sojourner, and even for the "Guest that tarrieth 
but a day." It is an experience of a lifetime. It is 
hard to get away from it. It is indeed hard to ana- 
lyze it. But the sauntering there must have its 
limit if we are to push ahead around this spinning 
globe, and our next story carries us to Assisi, the home 
of our San Francisco's Patron Saint. 



[19] 



ASSISI • PERUGIA • FLORENCE 

YOU SEE Assisi long before you reach it and 
it has an interest, aside from its association 
with St. Francis, in that it is typical of those 
Itahan towns which, like individual castles, 
were built on commanding eminences for purposes of 
defense and good sentineling against neighboring 
towns which might have unneighborly invasion and 
loot in mind upon occasion. And the history of 
Assisi is troubled with the record of such visitations 
from Perugia and other points, to say nothing of pass- 
ing armies from afar. Again and again has the hill 
which the modern traveler chmbs to reach Assisi, had 
its steep slopes trodden by the feet of attacking foes 
who were often repulsed, sometimes successful, but 
always found the natural defenses of the heights for- 
midable and once, at least, were only able to gain 
entrance by making use of an exposed city drain. 

It is, however, not the town's site, but the town's 
Saint, that draws thither the greater number of 
people who go there from all parts of the world. The 
register of the "Hotel Subasio" shows many names 
from California and San Francisco, but the wonder 
is that many more from the State dotted with the 
names and prizing £imong its traditions and exhibits 
the Missions of the Order of St. Francis, do not make 
it part of their itinerary abroad to go to Assisi. And 
surely no San Franciscan who feels the indefinable 
charm and spell of his city would wilHngly forego the 
opportunities to see the birthplace and home of the 
Saint after whom the city is called. For it need 
raise no clash of controversy to waive all questions 
about which men differ as to the cult or legends of the 
Saint, and to recognize his high and holy character 

[20] 






/>nrr ral ^^ 

..1 



:^ 









Rare specimen of autographic writing of St. Francis 

The Blessing of St. Francis given to Brother Leo in the words of the old 
Aaronic Blessing, Numbers 6:24-26. To give the words a personal appli- 
cation Francis wrote beneath these words the Latin for 'Brother Leo, 
may our Lord bless thee," and then drew the rude figure of a head euid 
uix>n it, passing through the letters of Leo's name, he drew the sign Tau. 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

we have yet anything like a municipal "halo" claim 
— ^we do have an ideal. Of all the exposition of world 
welfare at a world's fair, we still beheve the prime 
exhibit must be the sort of humanity the age can 
show. Let the Golden Gate, as well as "The Nar- 
rows," have its symbolic figure at a portal of our 
country. If our national metropohs has "Liberty 
EnHghtening the World," why not at the new era of 
the greatest ocean of the world, as it opens out to 
history-making between the Orient and Occident 
that is ahnost beyond the dream of men today, — 
why not have a new kind of flamen grasped by St. 
Francis' hand to signify "Character EnHghtening the 
World?" It would give a high "world genius" to 
the whole Exposition. 

All this, of course, is a digression from travel — or 
rather, a travehng home in thought, which is, after 
all, really anything but a digression to a world-wan- 
derer. But as it comes from a zest in the matter 
freshened by the visit to Assisi, so it may point the 
purpose of some reader not to pass by Assisi the next 
time he goes abroad, if he has not aheady been there. 

After leaving the train and before going up the 
ascent to Assisi proper, the guide takes you to the 
scene of some of the most notable events in the career 
of St. Francis. The Portiuncula is the name given 
to the httle Sanctuary where St. Francis received the 
call to the rehgious life, where he founded the Order 
of Friars Minor, where he founded the "Poor Clares 
or Order for Women under S. Clara, and where he 
resolved to found what is known as the "Third 
Order," for those not cloistered. The small stone 
shrine known as St. Mary-of-the-Angels has been 
embelHshed richly with mosaics and dowered with 
costly lamps and other offerings and is said to go back 
in its origin to the middle of the fourth century, and 
St. Benedict in the sixth century is credited with its 

[22] 



ASSISI— PERUGIA— FLORENCE 

enlargement, — ^then finally having its restoration by 
St. Francis' own hands at the beginning of the thir- 
teenth century. It seems all the more minute 
because over and around it and dwarfing it stands 
the great Church — the "majestic cupola" of which 
is directly over the Portiuncula — built by Pope 
Pius V. in 1569. This Church also encloses the cell, 
converted into a chapel, in which St. Francis died. 
And in the adjoining garden there is a third sanc- 
tuary built over the hut which St. Francis usually 
inhabited. These and other interesting memorieds 
on the heights of Assisi seem to be free from those 
doubts of identification which sometimes one finds 
so hard to dissolve in the quest for genuine antiquity. 
And so you take the card the kind monk gives you, 
beheving that the bits from shrine, door of cell, pul- 
pit and garden, tiny as most of these bits are, are "the 
real things." 

Going up the grade the drive opens out fine vistas 
of the surrounding country, including the outhnes on 
the distant hill of the old-time rival and assailant, 
Perugia, left for the morrow's visit. The old Con- 
vent of Santa Clara is first shown not materially 
different from its appearance in her time, though now 
occupied by some of the Brothers, the Sisters having 
their larger convent, to which we next went. There 
it is an experience unique, with mixed impressions, to 
be led silently down into a dark crypt deep in the 
earth where a Sister, haff-hidden in the gloom, with 
her mien well in keeping with all the surroundings, 
soon reverently adjusts lights so that suddenly illu- 
mined before your eyes, lying habited in her coffin, 
is revealed from its side behind glass what is left of 
the mortal body of Santa Clara, laid to its rest be- 
tween seven and eight centuries ago. Leaving that 
and passing an old Temple of Minerva as a reminder 
of still remoter centuries, you soon find yourself at 

[23] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

the door of the great upper Church of San Francisco, 
awaiting the coming of the Enghsh speaking Brother 
who is to act as guide. Adapted to the contour of 
the hill, and as the fn'st Gothic building in Italy as 
is claimed, are the two Churches, one above another, 
known as the Upper and Lower Churches. With 
Lady Lina Duff Gordon's excellent Httle handbook on 
Assisi, one could intelhgently spend much time over 
the frescoes by Giotto and Gimabue as well as over 
other treasures, though in the dim hght good eye- 
sight is needed as well as good guidance. The main 
motif, however, is the visit to the tomb of St. Francis, 
and that has in itself a singular history. At the time 
of his burial service there was a fear that a rival 
town might attempt to possess itself of his remains 
in order to have the prestige of ownership and so of 
the cult of the Saint. So serious was the anxiety 
that those in authority caused the coffin to be ab- 
ducted during the burial ceremonies and to be 
secretly deposited, no one except those immediately 
effecting it, knew where. The resting place was so 
effectively hidden and the knowledge of it so con- 
fined to those who carried it with them at their death 
that for several centuries the spot was unidentified. 
Finally due authority was given for excavations in 
order to ascertain if possible where the body was. 
For a long time the effort was fruitless and was 
indeed temporarily abandoned and even interdicted 
by papal authority. But later such authority was 
renewed with the result that about six centuries 
after the interment, that is, in 1818, the body was 
discovered under the Church. By many steps you 
descend to the cave-like room now excavated and 
elaborately adorned as a chapel, in the center of 
which has been left as placed the sarcophagus con- 
taining the remains of St. Francis, in itself of simple 
massive stone and of worthy design. It is a place to 

[24] 



ASSIST— PERUGIA— FLORENCE 

Knger and thank God for the good examples of His 
Saints, and especially of St. Francis. 

In the Sacristy are preserved various carefully 
guarded articles treasured up for their use by St. 
Francis, the tunic worn by him at his death, Charter 
of the Order of St. Francis, which he often wore 
about his body, his hair shirt and cord. And there 
on parchment was the only bit of autographic writing 
extant of St. Francis, a copy of which, in facsimile, 
the Brother gave me. It is the Aaronic blessing, 
written in his Latin script, with his signature, and 
with an explanatory annotation added later. It 
might well find place on any municipal monument 
in San Francisco of the sort referred to above, to 
stimulate a spirit in our citizenship to be worthy of 
his perpetual benediction. 

There seems to be something of an historical 
iteration of the name "Francis" in California. In 
1579 came hither the hardy explorer, Francis Drake, 
with his ship Golden Hinde, and with him Francis 
Fletcher, the chaplain, held in honor among us. 
But one who visits Assisi will not be likely to get 
any of these confused (for each should be fairly ac- 
corded his own distinct place among our pre-pioneers), 
as did the enterprising hackman who, driving some 
visitors to San Francisco around Golden Gate Park, 
pointed out the prominent Prayer Book Cross, 
erected to conamemorate Francis Fletcher's first use 
of the Prayer Book in the present territory of the 
United States, and explained to them that it was a 
monument in memory of Saint Francis Drake! 

A visit to Perugia followed that to Assisi, on the 
way to Florence, but while there are absorbing points 
of interest, Hke the old Church where several Popes 
were elected, the Municipal Palace with decorations 
by Raphael, and a general interest in the old streets 
which had l3een peopled by those whose interest in 

[25^] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

the Assisi, which stood out so boldly m the distance, 
had in old time all the keenness of the "green-eye," 
we did not Unger long but went to Florence, Arno- 
cleft, in its pride of the past. Mrs. Olyphant's title 
to her charming book, "The Makers of Florence," 
is happily conceived, because it strikes one so forcibly 
that it aptly fixes in mind the fact that the "Makers 
of Florence" are famous because they were makers 
of history far wider than Florence. American eyes 
are, however, so famihar with Florence that no oft- 
told tale of its charms and interests need be intro- 
duced here. The home of Amerigo Vespucci you see 
marked as a modest building in a certain street as our 
Hemisphere Continents bear his name. And so with 
Gahlei, Dante, MachiaveUi, Fra Angehco, Giotto 
and others. They have Florentine names and 
Florentine landmarks, but universal finger-prints 
upon history. And so to walk about the Campanile, 
the Pitti and Uffizi Galleries, and the other well- 
trodden pathways of the sight-seer, while so far as 
individual masterpieces are concerned only snatches 
of appreciation are possible, the genius of the masters 
becomes a sort of very genius loci and Florence looms 
very large as an earth's mustering place of masters. 
When one overlooks the city from the Park elevation 
while the buildings fill the eye this thought of the 
men of its achievements fills the mind. There was 
a sort of sombre interest in the cell and desk and 
devotional books of Savonarola in the old Dominican 
Monastery — ^where was also some of the decorative 
beauty from the hand of Fra Angehco — as there was 
an especial satisfaction of the "seeing of the eye" of 
the very statue of David, of which I had so often 
read, which Michael Angelo saw, and the "con- 
scious stone to beauty grew," in the huge block of 
marble that had lain on the rubbish pile of the city 
a century because a former sculptor for whom it 

[26] 



ASSISI— PERUGIA— FLORENCE 

had been quarried, could do nothing with it I The 
esteem in which it is held by this generation is well 
illustrated by the remark of our guide, " See," said he, 
pointing to an adjoining statue of heroic size, "that 
by the side of this looks hke a bag of potatoes I" 



27' 



ATHENS 

*' ■ ^ XCEEDINGLY tossed with a tempest" was 

■ J our small steamer in the same part of the 
I 1 . sea as St. Paul, though fortunately with 

■ ^ no apparent danger of a shipwreck as we 
journeyed from Naples to Piraeus, the port of Athens. 
And we saw the Rhegium (Reggio) he mentions, and 
other well-known points, StromboH with the vapor 
overhanging its cone, the Lipori islands, Scylla and 
Gharybdis — since the use of steam really not at all 
difficult to "steer between" and so practically "out 
of commission" as a modern simile — Messini with its 
earthquake ruins still so much in evidence, and 
Catania where we stopped and where the clouds 
lifted to afford us an excellent sunset view of Aetna. 
That night and "day in the deep" that followed was 
the period of a Pauline tempestuous wind — but we 
were not at the time in a mental attitude to have the 
question interest us, whether it was still called 
"Euroclydon" or not. 

It is by no means Greece as an antique that 
Piraeus first presents it, with a harbor full of steam- 
ers, and Greek letters on street signs spelHng many 
present century things. I do not recall exactly 
whether a big American skating rink we saw there 
expressed itself in Homeric phrase, but all around 
and especially in the fine wide boulevard over which 
we were at once driven to Athens were marks of 
up-to-date enterprise. And in Athens itself one at 
first almost misses some expected environment of 
tumble-down conditions in the "smart" appearance 
of city and citizens. The Athenians of today seem 
to spend their whole time not so much in hearing 
and telling as in getting and building "some new 



ATHENS 

thing," while the strangers that are there now are 
the people that are after the old things. And it is 
hard to reahze that the modern Athens is practically 
a creation since 1834, when it had dwindled down to 
a poor village of about three hundred houses contain- 
ing, in streets which were Httle more than alleys, 
principally Greeks and AJbanians. 

From our windows at the hotel there was a 
curious illusion of a well-defined silhouette formed 
by one of the scarps of the great Acropohs Rock. 
With httle imagination you could think of it as the 
strong face of Jupiter, and with the Minerva monu- 
ments that were the motif of the great art, coming 
as it were out of the brain, nature herself seemed to 
contribute to the old mythology. But the face was 
turned away from modern Athens and seemed to 
express the spirit of the classic past as if somehow 
Ancient and Modern Athens were hke two different 
places crowding each other on the map. And as one 
roams around the ruins of the old Greek Theatre and 
reahzes how Sophocles and Aristophanes and others 
really hved for some purpose other than that of 
making youths in college days wrestle with Greek 
grammar and constructing staccato choruses, he 
wonders what Aristophanes, for example, would find 
to skit in such a typical innovation as the "honey 
of Hymettus" tinned in destiny for American flannel 
cakes! 

One soon catches the antiquarian fever, never- 
theless, and has to fairly rub his eyes to beheve that 
he is in person where hitherto only book and pho- 
tography have carried him. But book and pho- 
tography have in like manner carried most of those 
who may read this there, too. They will feel, 
whether they have been on the spot or not, that 
which is to be desired after the libraries of description 
and pictures is the personal experience of a trip 

[29] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

there, not mere description of the "principal points.'* 
Each one, however, has some traveler's tales of his 
own such as these I ventm*e to note. 

An intelhgent guide, provided for us by Cook's 
Tourist Agency, which had much to do with the 
comfort and expedition of our whole trip through 
these countries around the Mediterranean, took us 
to all the usual points "done" by the tourist, and 
answered for us the usual fusillade of queries. These 
guides are patient, and I do not beheve that even the 
question said to have been asked by one of our fellow 
countrymen of his daughter with whom he had gone 
to hear a lecture on "The Age of Pericles" — "What 
are Perikkles, anyway?" — ^would faze them. 

The two points toward which the eyes first turn 
in Athens, to verify reading and pictures, are the 
Acropohs and the Areopagus. They are respectively 
the hillcrests of ancient rehgion and ancient law. 
But for the Bible student, the association of St. Paul 
with "Mars Hill" — another name for Areopagus — 
has associated that elevation with rehgion, £uid the 
Acropohs ruins, while they are rehcs of master art, 
bear their testimony to Mars, the God of War, in 
wrecks that have been caused in the principal build- 
ings — Propylaea having been shattered by making 
the roof too heavy in order to protect against bom- 
bardment, and the world-exploited Parthenon cut in 
two in 1687 during a Venetian siege by a bomb 
dropped into a gunpowder magazine into which part 
of it had been temporarily converted. It all at first, 
as one stands on either eminence, seems something 
like a very jumble of history as it is of tumbled 
columns and shattered statues and blocks of chis- 
elled marble and patched and ruined walls. The 
eternal hills of geology seem to mock the fleeting 
trimnphs of Philosophy and Art and Statesmanship 
and War as they hold high up against the searching 

[30] 




03 



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a. » sr 









§ OS. SI'S; 

5 p 



.tr 
p I 

'^ '=i'2.S'g,g: ?r 






3 [CC B-B- U 



ATHENS 

sky-lines their marred relics as only subjects for 
modern archaeology. But in all that past one lonely 
figure stood there who only seemed to Stoic and 
Epicurean a "babbler." He had nothing to con- 
tribute to the pride of the one or the pleasure of the 
other. He brought certain strange things to their 
ears. As they and he looked over from Mars Hill 
and saw the shield of the colossal Athena gleaming 
in the sunKght and the proud proportions of the 
fanes and statues of the other hill upraised all around 
them, he told them of an unknown God that "dwell- 
eth not in temples made with hands" and that we 
ought not as the offspring of God to think that the 
Godhead is like unto gold or silver, or stone graven 
by art, and device of man. Where did the history 
or the hills have any promise of lasting names for 
any such as he ? The very dust stirred by the breeze 
seemed surer of staying there in its inconsequence 
than any mark of his passing association with the 
spot — a few words to a curious group accustomed to 
give a passing idle interest and then to forget in turn- 
ing to the next novelty that came along — an unknown 
man babbhng of an unknown God. From some 
points of view, Mars Hill has a rounded, dome-Uke 
contour above the city. Today that rock might be 
said to be best known throughout the world because 
that lone Apostle gave it fame, just as another great 
dome looming up above the largest city of the modern 
world and marking London's Cathedral Church, 
bears the very name of that same Apostle. And a 
Greek poet of whom Ovid said his fame would Hve 
as long as the sun and moon endureth — Aratus — has 
only Hved in the ages because that Apostle quoted 
his phrase, declaring to the men of Athens, "Certain 
of your own poets have said, 'For we are also His 
offspring.' " And where one knows of the great 
names of Athens, hundreds and thousands are ever 

[31] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

thanking God for the words and hfe of St. Paul. So 
that it has been well said, "There is no point in the 
annals of the first planting of Christianity which 
seizes so powerfully on the imagination of those who 
are famihar with the history of the ancient world" 
as the summit of Mars Hill. Just under the hill and 
not far from the shrine of the avenging Furies is the 
site and some of the foundation walls of an ancient 
church named after Dionysius the Areopagite, one 
of those who "clave unto" St. Paul "and beUeved." 
This would seem to have an especial interest for 
every christian visitor, and yet when I asked the 
guide to show us to the spot, he remarked that he had 
only had occasion to take visitors to it, among the 
many he is constantly showing about the city, three 
times in twelve years. Under the spell of Mars Hill 
and with the latter part of the Seventeenth Chapter 
of the Book of Acts in mind, the visit would seem 
incomplete without standing on that site of a Chris- 
tain church so closely traditional of the hill trodden 
by the Apostle's feet. 

The AcropoUs, of course, came in for its share 
of attention, and in addition to the absorbing classical 
associations of which the guide books and lectiu"es 
and photographs of visitors treat so fully, there are 
the periods of its Christian and Mohammedan occu- 
pation. I noted in a pile of broken fragments of 
marble one piece marked with a weU-defined Greek 
cross. And on the AcropoKs I suppose it was not 
strange that some thoughts should go towards home 
and towards another elevated point which, if not so 
historical nor so comprehensive, may yet become a 
quasi AcropoUs for San Francisco as some day Grace 
Cathedral and its precincts stand against the sky on 
our noble Cathedral block. 

And it may be taken for granted without dwelling 
upon it that none of the many other points of interest 

[32] 



ATHENS 

ordinarily shown were overlooked in our visit. I do 
not need to mention their names, they are so well 
known. The museum will never be left out by 
the wise visitor. Even the sea has given up to it 
art treasures. Some years ago fishermen discovered 
near the island of Gherigo by their hues and nets the 
existence of cargoes of statues and bronzes that were 
among the wrecks of ships that in the Roman period 
were transporting them from Greece to Rome. The 
Romans had a way at the time of "borrowing" such 
treasures for the embeUishment of the Imperial Gity. 
Many of these statues and bronzes have been raised 
and deposited in the Museum, showing the effects of 
their long submersion. There are also anchors and 
ship parts of the old time. And as evidence that the 
ancients had caught some ideas which we are wont 
to think are all our own, many mementoes of the 
domestic articles of old time were on exhibition. 

As an American Ghurchman, however, there was 
one institution which it was an especial pleasure to 
see. For it was an American clergyman, the Rev. 
John J. Robertson — ^whose daughter, Miss Mary K. 
Robertson, we love to honor in the Diocese of GaH- 
fornia as one of our devoted communicants foremost 
among us for good works — who in September, 1828, 
offered himself to our Domestic and Foreign Mission- 
ary Society as a missionary to Greece, was accepted 
and went to Greece, looked over the field and returned 
presenting a full and interesting report. As about 
that time Greece became independent he was ap- 
pointed missionary, and the whole story of his 
instrumentaHty and the addition to the force of Dr. 
and Mrs. John Henry Hill is one our Church ought 
to ever keep in mind. We can only here refer to the 
fact that it resulted in the founding of schools for 
boys and girls in Athens. From what Dr. Hill 
called an "humble origin" in "a dark, dirty cellar of 

[33] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

an old Venetian tower," the work progressed until 
the school numbered nearly six hundred scholars. 
And so successful were the schools in "putting the 
leaven of Christian thought and hfe into the new 
educational system of Greece," that at the death of 
Dr. Hill in 1882, in the ripe old age of ninety-one 
years, the Greek Cabinet requested in the name of 
the King that they might afford an opportunity for 
the public to express its appreciation of his work by 
a public funeral. The demonstration was a very 
large one, the procession headed by an escort of 
soldiers with band and with the King's chaplain and 
the Greek Archimandrite and all classes of the people 
following, and nearly a mile in length. And the 
President of the City Council of Athens announced 
that "the City of Athens, wishing to show its appre- 
ciation to so deserving a benefactor, would raise a 
monument over that grave which should be inscribed 
with the love and gratitude of the Demos of Athens." 
Changed conditions and the development of other 
schools since the death of Dr. and Mrs. Hill have 
reduced the size of the "Hill School," as it is named, 
but we found it without difficulty and it is now under 
the efficient charge of Miss Bessie M. Masson, niece 
of Mrs. Hill, from whom I quote: "I look upon it as 
a continuation of the missionary work of my dear 
aunt and uncle. I constantly have occasion to see 
the influence that the rehgious teaching of the school 
has on the pupils. I could tell you many interesting 
facts about our graduates and how they try to in- 
fluence others when they return to their homes." 
I visited the school and spoke to the girls and could 
only wish that the school now working independently 
might enlist the interest and prayers and support of 
many new friends "to carry its good designs" into 
even more effect. The monument erected by the 
city at the graves of Dr. and Mrs. Hill is of Pentelic 

[34] 



ATHENS 

marble with two palm branches and a simple inscrip- 
tion in Greek carved on it, together with the text 
from Revelation 14:13. 

Our last afternoon of Athens was spent on a drive 
about thirteen miles out to Eleusis, the seat of the 
old Eleusinian Mysteries. It gave us a good oppor- 
tunity to see something of the country and of the 
scene of the battle of Salamis, as well as traces of the 
old "Sacred way" and many marks of the long past, 
including a Greek church built out of the marbles of 
an old temple of Apollo. The buildings of the Greek 
Church, especially the Cathedral in Athens, are in 
good evidence of the age and claim of primitive 
origin and orthodoxy of that ancient Catholic body. 
I recalled the astonishment, not to say amusement, of 
an intelligent representative of Greece as its minister 
to Washington, when at a dinner party in Elberon a 
good many years ago at the summer cottage of my 
old friend and parishioner of St. James', the late Mr. 
George W. Childs of Philadelphia, an unsophisticated 
guest asked the Greek ambassador if there were any 
Christians in Greece! 



[35] 



CONSTANTINOPLE 

IT IS a curious fact that Berkeley's Kne, so often 
quoted that it is almost a street-proverb, "West- 
ward the course of Empire takes its way," runs 
directly counter to the most signal trend of 
Empire the Christian Era has ever known. And that 
trend, too, was from one "Eternal City" to another. 
And the passing was from a city imperial from the 
"working of historic causes" to a city fixed on a spot 
which "nature itself had destined to be the seat of 
the empire of two worlds." When Gonstantine 
changed the throne from old Rome, to the old 
Byzantium and gave that the new name after him- 
self and made it practically what it was often called, 
"New Rome," the course of empire was distinctly 
not westward, but eastward. And the effect on 
history of that orientation of its "course" was fully 
as epochal as any single event that has happened 
since. 

And so old Constantinople is apt to appeal 
strongly to one who has in mind this turning point in 
Church as well as in imperial affairs. With the sec- 
tions of the city well defined as Stamboul, Pera, Galata 
and Scutari, for the general sightseeing, the Church 
saunterer instinctively gives all precedence to the 
first, which is an abbreviation of Istamboul, that in 
turn having come from the Greek for "into the city. " 
To Stamboul we go then as into the city site of Con- 
stantine's time. And the lure of that draws one away 
as far as possible in thought and imagination from 
the modern scenes and street jostHngs and cries of 
the Turkish capital. Over the crowded Galata 
bridge humming with its many-hued life, past the 
Parhament buildings typical of the most modern 

[36] 




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CO 



CONSTANTINOPLE 

Young Turk, some of the old Byzantine walls are 
soon in evidence of the inamediate locality where 
Gonstantine had his seat of empire, though of course 
the ages since have much changed the aspect of the 
buildings. The central point of interest there, as it 
is the most conspicuous feature on the sky-line, is 
the well known St. Sophia, looming up hke a great 
mount of lamentation to a Christian in that it is the 
ancient chief metropolitan cathedral for Christ in 
the East transformed into a central mosque for 
Mohammed at the heart of the Ottoman Empire. 
The present building is two hundred and thirty-five 
feet north and south and two hundered and fifty 
feet east and west, and, though rebuilt in some parts 
from time to time, is said to date from the time of 
Justinian in the sixth century, the earlier structure 
of Constantine with its later additions having been 
destroyed by fire. Out of all the inspection of it, 
noting the points suggested by dragomen and guide- 
book that are of absorbing interest, but easily 
available to the reader, two stand out in memory as 
suggestive — and what a fine forgettery one is hkely 
to develop when crammed with so much data on a 
tourist's busy day! The one was that the archi- 
tecture of the Christian St. Sophia, which itself 
succeeded the basihcan type, while modified with 
minaret and some other minor features within and 
without, was not only left substantially as it was but 
it seems to have been adopted — though so identified 
with Christian Worship — as the model almost univer- 
sally for the mosque. It would be an interesting 
study to follow out this fact and study its possible 
significance as indicative of lack of artistic initiative 
in large lasting constructive work in the whole system 
of the mussulman. The other fact with bearings far 
beyond the fact itself was the covering over the old 
mosaic work. Its figures and symbohsm of Christi- 

[37] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

anity were so essentially inwrought that to obliterate 
all of them would seriously affect the building and so 
there was given them a coating of whitewash, or a 
veiling of banners with Mohammedan inscriptions. 
As it is, far up in a sanctuary dome the face of the 
Saviour can still be discerned through the wash, and 
in many places decorative crosses have been left 
untouched. But how much food for reflection there 
is in that peering upward from such surroundings, 
from the droning of the Koran, the worshippers 
prostrating in their devotions, the signs everywhere 
of Islam, the sight of that sure outline of the Saviour's 
face gradually becoming clearer in the dim, gloomy 
light of the Sanctuary dome! Seven hundred and 
forty-seven newspapers and magazines have been 
started in Turkey since the coming of the new order 
under the Young Turk in July, 1906. This betokens 
something of the widespread intellectual and social 
unrest. "There is not the least doubt," says one 
writer, "that tens of thousands of Moslems in Tur- 
key and Persia and even in Arabia are inteUectually 
convinced of the truth of Christianity against Islam. 
* * * The attack on orthodox Mohammedism was 
never so keen or strong on the part of any missionary 
as has been the recent attack from those inside Islam." 
With this ecHpse darkening the future of Moham- 
med's foUowing, even with some aggressive advance 
in Africa it seems to have, that deeply shadowed 
Face in the dome distinguishable through the calci- 
mine that has tried to hide it, is surely symboHc. 
The Light of the world may be dawning on Islam, 
and as one catches far aloft the blessed Uneaments of 
the calm face, there comes to him as if for an inscrip- 
tion that the Mohammedan world might well 
illuminate around it: "Shine through the gloom, 
and point me to the skies." That seems the real 
cry when Hstening to the plaintive chant of the 

[38] 



CONSTANTINOPLE 

muezzin high up on St. Sophia's minaret, that the 
real prayer while watching the worshippers with 
their wail-hke rhythm within the mosque. 

The same ecclesiastical bent gave deep interest to 
St. Irene, said to be the place in which the Second 
General Council of the Church met in 381, A. D., 
and attention is called to the "irony of fate" by 
which a Church named "Peace" (Irene) and one 
where peace was brought in that True Ecumenical 
Council to wide disputes of the Church upon vital 
truth, is now a museum of war arms and trophies. 
But this building could only be noted from a distance, 
as could the Treasury, which is also a museum of 
antiquities, and other parts of the old Seraglio that 
were not accessible during our stay in Constantino- 
ple. And mention can only be made here of the 
vast cisterns, dating from Constantine's period, 
for water supply, down to which you go as to caverns 
under blocks of houses, one such cistern extending 
almost to St. Sophia itself; of the great green marble 
columns in St. Sophia brought from the Temple of 
Diana of the Ephesians; of the Serpent Column 
brought from the Oracle of Delphi, the triple head 
having been cut off by Mohammed II. with a single 
blow of his battle-axe. The Imperial Museum, an 
imposing modern building, is a very dehght for the 
archaeologist, but the despair of the tourist who can 
tarry with it but a day. However, the Sarcophagus 
said to be that of Alexander the Great, a Chaldean 
inscription in black granite assigned to 3800 B. C, 
"the world is very evil and even children write 
books!" baked bricks preserving writing from 2300 
B. C, which covers builders' contracts, marriage 
contracts, deeds, school rules, children's writing 
exercises and other ordinary details of Ufe — these 
sample some of the thousands of objects of antiquity, 
and additions are constantly made. 

[39] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

One of our paths — not so much "beaten" as 
others — took us to the Cathedral of the Greek 
Church, under the direct oversight of the Ecumenical 
Patriarch Joachim, whom we saw, but whose cour- 
teous invitation to meet him at his residence, lack 
of time compelled me to decline. In the cathedral — 
St. George's — are shown various objects, eikons, 
table, throne and pulpit said to have come from St. 
Sophia, and the pulpit claimed as one that had been 
occupied by St. Chrysostom. There were also some 
reUcs of Saints. If the "beaten paths" are made 
secondary it is not because they were not fully 
enjoyed, but because they are "beaten;" such as the 
dehghtful sail on the Bosphorus, passing Robert 
College, to the Black Sea, the view from the Galata 
tower, the Palace of Belisarius and the gate where 
the Turks found entrance to the city when they 
captured it, and the witnessing of the procession of 
the Sultan, Mehemet V., in his weekly visit to the 
Mosque with the escort of a large body of troops. 

Constantinople has both a "Golden Gate" and a 
" Golden Horn. " The gate is in the old Theodosian 
Wall, but it is closed and walled up supposedly from 
a tradition that some day a new conqueror will 
emulate the old conquerors who used to make 
trumphal entries through it. The Golden Horn is 
the busy waterway dividing Stamboul from Galata 
and Pera, the Galata bridge serving as their con- 
necting link. This suggests some contrast with 
another city which has a "Golden Gate." Our 
Gate of Triumph, never closed, is opening up with 
new vision of the progressive Pacific. And as to a 
Golden Horn — catch the golden notes, ringing around 
the world, of the bugle-call to the Exposition of 19151 



[40] 



ALEXANDRIA • CAIRO 

IT IS one of the whimsies of history that a city 
of so many great names and events as Alex- 
andria should in our time rank, for the tourist 
at any rate, not much more than a landing- 
stage for the Nile trip. We journeyed thither from 
Constantinople, which faded away from us as, steam- 
ing away on the Bosphorus — literally, the Oxford I — 
we gazed long at it from the deck, silent under the 
spell of its associations, which the golden sunset and 
the dreamy shadows setthng on the minarets seemed 
to induce. The ship took us again to the Piraeus 
and its busy waters and from there directly to Alex- 
andria, passing Crete on a beautiful Sunday morning. 
Fortunately we had a good view of that point 
"Salmone" to give us in its jutting out into the 
currents a reaHzation of the memorandum in St. 
Paul's "log" of that puny ship of Alexandria in 
which he was voyaging towards Rome when the 
wind not suffering them they sailed over against 
Salmone, "hardly passing it." (Acts 27: 7-8.) Fel- 
low passengers ever add much to the interest of sea 
travel, and it is to be feared to sea gossip, but one 
on this particular trip unconsciously afforded some 
real food for thought. This was a high-class Moham- 
medan woman, the wife of the Governor of a Prov- 
ince, travehng with a retinue of servants. Though 
in the harbors most punctilious in her observance of 
the rigid custom of having her face covered with a 
veil, she seemed to be glad to assert her freedom 
from that constraint and to wish to enjoy it as the 
other ladies on shipboard, spending hours with her 
children in her steamer chair, with a manifest sense 
of emancipation from some of the severe conven- 

[41] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

tionaKties of the Mohammedan home life, even if 
she could not mingle socially with the other passen- 
gers. It aU seemed typical of the spreading restless- 
ness of inteUigent womanhood under Mohammedan 
restraints and the aspiration for different status 
which is plainly showing itseff in various ways, as 
for example in the recent visit of a delegation of 
women in behalf of women's interests to the Sultan 
himself, a thing practically unheard of hitherto. And 
her accompHshed EngHsh governess — who, curiously 
enough, had been a governess in San Francisco — 
confirmed this impression in conversations we had 
with her. 

The position Alexandria has held both in civil 
and church history would suggest that it would take 
some time to "do" it. And so the saunterer might 
well have his expectations edged as he remembered 
some of the mighty works done there and inferred 
that there would naturally be shown places of anti- 
quity in the usual oriental abundance. To say 
nothing of Alexander the Great and the patronymic, 
Clement, a Father of Christian Philosophy, some of 
whose writings reflect with curious detail the very 
Hfe of Alexandria in his day, Origen the learned, 
Athanasius, "the Father of Orthodoxy," the great 
Catechetical School which helped to give the name 
"Brain of Christendom" to Alexandria, and had so 
much to do with the origins of scientific theology, 
the encycHcal letters which went out from Alex- 
andria to fix the date of Easter for the Christian 
world before it could tm'n to our church almanacs 
to keep track of the eccentricities of our Paschal 
moon, the translation of the Old Testament Scrip- 
tures into Greek in the Septuagint, the great Litur- 
gies, the ancient citizenship so charged with church 
interests — not to say church rows — as depicted in 
Charles Kingsley's Hypatia, these and hke stirring 

[42] 



ALEXANDRIA— CAIRO 

associations with that old site could well whet the 
interest for identifications. And one would wiUingly 
look over a good many of them, even if not disposed 
always to commit himself any more than the Gelt, 
whose first remark on seeing Niagara Falls was, 
"What's to hinder it!" Pompey's Pillar is there, 
very old, but there is doubt as to how much Pom- 
pey had to do with it. "Cleopatra's Needles" were 
there, but one is now in London, and the other in 
New York, neither in their owners' hands just now 
keeping the thread of continuous Alexandrian history. 
There is a museum of Greco-Roman antiquities, 
with some curios from the Christian period. There 
are catacombs and^borings about the central quarter 
of the ancient city, but apparently the site of the old 
city has subsided and is now buried under. The 
moon, over the wanderings of which the old Christian 
astronomers used to figure out the proper time of 
Easter for all the world, is undoubtedly the same at 
which you can gaze now, and the name of the city is 
the same, but so far as any "very-spot" sight-seeing 
of the old signal Christian epochs is concerned, these 
seem to exhaust the fist. Of course modern Alex- 
andria has many interests of its own, but when the 
antiquarian fever is on, especially for rummaging the 
Christian past, modernism becomes a saunterer's 
heresy. We did, however, visit the Greek Cathedral 
and an elevation occupied by a barrack of Enghsh 
troops, from which we obtained a good outlook on 
the city and drove around the city, and enjoyed all 
of that, but Alexandria was the one place where we 
really did not use all the time allotted to us by the 
dragoman — pace Alexander the Great! Does the 
"departed glory" of the ancient seat of so much 
church prestige argue that institutions as at Rome 
last so much better than instructions or that teach- 
ings become common property and so lose locahsm 

[43] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

in a continuity of Christian thought ? But "travel- 
ogue" must be chary of travelogic, for to adapt a 
phrase from Sidney Smith, "There may be a good 
many other things without a good many other 
things." 

Once on the train for Cairo, lunching in a com- 
fortable dining car, the moving picture — or rather 
the moving view point of the picture — of Egyptian 
life begins, and the train seems to rush back into 
Pharaoh's time and into geography of the Delta 
which has hitherto been invested with school-day 
impressions that it was about as remote as the moon. 
Camels, canals, archimedean screws and other wheels 
for water, donkeys decorated with heavyweight 
humanity, the humanity in turn decorated with 
motley garb billowing in the breeze, groups of mud 
hovels, which were staring in contrast with the green 
of the cultivated fields, suggest Ruskin's diatribe as 
to the way in which man can mar what the green of 
nature makes; the thoroughfares and fields thick 
with fellahin, the frequent tombs — all soon give the 
saunterer the feeHng, "I am really in Egypt," and 
serve as a sort of overture for what is yet to come 
on the trip. Before Cairo is reached one might 
easily get into the mood of supposing that the hotel 
for which he is booked there is named, in keeping with 
it all, after one of the "Shepherd Kings." But it is 
not, and "Shepheards" is not spelled that way, 
though it holds something of a kingship in the senti- 
ment of the tourist world, as everybody wants to go 
where everybody else has been, even though newer 
hotels carry the true heraldry of royally related 
names (e. g., Semiramis). And at Shepheards the 
saunterer immediately reahzes that there are sing- 
ularly distinct two Cairos. What goes on at Shep- 
heards and its immediate vicinity is one. The 
scheduled round for sight-seeing is another. And 

[44] 



ALEXANDRIA— CAIRO 

they are as distinct as a motor car from a musemn, 
one all chug-a-chug with modern show and go, the 
other as mmn but as full of curious interest as a 
mummy. The one creates an environment calcu- 
lated to swell the bosom as if you were basking in 
the sphere of an American millionaire, the other as 
if you were at the last remove "the heir of all the 
ages." The one Cairo we saw more particularly 
while waiting over night to take the boat for the Nile 
trip, the other more fully on our return from that 
trip ; and we leave the experience of the latter Cairo, 
the antique, for further notes. 

"Shepheards" is well provided with both the 
comforts and luxuries of Ufe, and does not at all 
suggest the description so cynically given of some 
great hostelries in other lands which "have all the 
luxuries and some few comforts." It made us at 
home in all the stirring life of the hundreds of guests 
to find some good California friends from San Fran- 
cisco, Monterey and VisaHa and some from Phila- 
delphia and elsewhere, including the Bishop of 
Quebec and Mrs. Dunn. The large portico of 
the hotel, which is one of the most cosmopohtan 
"lounges" in the world in its groupings of those of 
many nations and races, abuts on the street and 
affords a point of contact between the tourist and 
the modern Cairene. And there it is as well as in 
strolHng along the streets in the immediate vicinity 
that one finds himself regarded in the role of an 
American capitaHst at sight. There is no room for 
doubt about the American part of it, for the first 
newspaper vender you meet picks out from his poly- 
glot assortment of papers an unmistakable sheet and 
spots you at once with "New York Herald"! Even 
the wonderful disguises with which some array them- 
selves head and foot for the Nile trip are instantly 
penetrated by these sagacious citizens and your 

[45] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

United States they somehow read as if you were 
garbed in the American flag. Then the sidewalk Hne 
of the hotel portico is a perpetual bargain-counter 
during the sunny hours. The alert salesmen of the 
curbstone are very loth to take "no" for an answer, 
for are not the guests reversing the Exodus of old in 
constituting an inrush ? And as the historic people 
of long ago in their anxiety to get out of the country 
spoiled the Egyptians, so when the hosts today seem 
so eager to get into their country is it not human that 
the Egyptians should feel that one good turn deserves 
another and develop prochvities to spoil the tourists ? 
Then how graphically does the "bakshish" habit 
testify to the "rolhng-in- wealth" pedestal upon 
which your fellow-creatures in Cairo — and indeed all 
through the Orient — ^put you. If ever a universal 
tongue is found, a VolapuJk for the common speech 
of the world, there is at least one word which will 
need no twist and no explanation, for everybody, 
Occidental or Oriental, will know what it means, and 
that word is "bakshish!" And a young American 
who wrote an interesting account of "beating his 
way" around the world has told us in his book that 
when he found himself in Cairo consorting with an 
imported gang of beggars — as if the native articles 
were not enough! — they jeered at him when he 
avowed himself an American, because every beggar 
of them who could put two sentences of Enghsh 
together passed as an American since the Americans 
were such easy game! But more anon of Cairo and 
of our downright enjoyment of it and its memorials, 
with all said and done. 



[46] 



THE NILE TRIP 

"How sweet it were, hearing the downward stream 
With half shut eyes ever to seem 
Falling asleep in a half-dream I" 

SOME of the most memorable moments of the 
Nile trip I believe are those of soothing revery 
hke that of the Lotus-eaters quoted above 
from Tennyson's familiar verse. Nowhere on 
the world-circuit was there so fine a sense of the real 
abandon of idhng. The creature comforts of our 
steamer, "Rameses the Great," which brought the 
three weeks more or less of the river travel down 
to a nice point of easy going existence, of course had 
something to do with it. Even an occasional ' ' bump- 
ing a bar" — for it was along in the season when the 
water was getting low — was a cushioned sort of sen- 
sation and the plash of paddles and the breath of the 
engine seemed to have some of the 

"Music that gentler on the spirit lies 
Than tired eyeUds upon tired eyes." 

Then the good, cosmopohtan company, with a 
genial consciousness of "all being in the same boat" 
on a choice trip, the spacious and sheltered "lounge" 
on the upper deck for five o'clock teas and general 
chatter upon the day's doings, the good service in all 
departments of the boat, including that of the drago- 
men, "Mohammed," who visited the Chicago expo- 
sition, and "George," most picturesque in what the 
veteran "Mohanamed" called their "howling-swell 
clothes," all this amid Egyptian scenes and under 
Egyptian skies, the hues of which were described to 
us by a popular water-color artist as so difficult to 
reproduce, brought spells 

"To dream and dream, like yonder amber light." 

[47] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

But there was no mistake about having to be 
"wide awake" betimes. Not quite as animated as 
the Arizona "hurricane deck of a cay use" is the 
donkey back for the side trips to ruins, but a belabor- 
ing donkey-boy can put a cheery jolt into its motion 
that, in the first experience at any rate, is apt to 
produce thrills of staying on more than of the 
scenery. And this has its own value on the trip. 
There is sane and simple regime in the riding and 
air these side trips give, over and above the zest in 
visiting the notable sites of antiquity. They really 
counter the symptoms of langorous dyspepsia that 
even the poet cannot despise in his "mild-eyed, 
melancholy Lotus-eaters." And when the tourist 
has his first mount for the ruins of Memphis and the 
great burial ground at Sakkarah — ^mine named 
"Moses," with boy "Abdul" tuning up both the 
donkey and various American airs, "Yankee Doodle," 
"Hail Columbia," college yells, etc., for my edifi- 
cation, showing how many fellow countrymen had 
been there before — it will not be strange if after he 
had covered the miles more or less going and coming, 
it dawns upon him that he has had the Hvehest 
exercise he has had in many a day. And so the trip 
throughout is calculated to keep one in condition. 
It would be as hopeless as the "hterature on the 
subject" renders it needless, to attempt to follow the 
itinerary with descriptions of what we saw. Indeed, 
so absorbing was the experience from day to day that 
every point visited left the feeling that it would be 
impossible to see all one wished without Argus-eyed 
and Sphinx-like staying power. And by the way, 
when one visits the Sphinx and the Great Pyramids 
there is a sort of lurking query as to whether after all 
the real secret of the Sphinx is simply that it says 
nothing just because it has nothing to say and only 
wishes to just be let alone and stay there and absorb 

[48] 



THE NILE TRIP 

the "Spell of Egypt" for a few aeons. In strange 
contrast with such stony repose is the agile young 
Egyptian, who for a few piastres consideration will 
sprint up and down the neighboring Great Pyramid 
— four hundered and fifty-one feet high — ^in eight 
minutes. What becomes of our strenuous American 
"twenty-minutes" ? 

It would be an interesting self-study to try to 
trace the real lure of ruin hunting on such a trip. 
Of course experting in archaeology explains something 
of it, curio-craze something more, the desire to visit 
any old land something more, and perhaps the 
oddities of ancient architecture and art and rulers 
and peoples still more, but this does not seem to ex- 
plain all. To the saunterer, at any rate, Hamlet's 
question, "Why may not imagination trace the 
noble dust of Alexander ? " gets closer to the secret of 
that travel-lure. Yorick's skull had been associated 
with human Hfe. And it seems to the saunterer that 
it is the life of these remote dynasties of Egypt 
which the ruins so graphically picture to the imagina- 
tion that invests them with the strange fascination 
to-day. A few illustrations of that we may cite and 
then leave the regular round of Nile trip visits each 
one with its own zest to the imagination and the 
authorities, guide-book and otherwise. With the 
hearty wish then, that any reader of this may him- 
self go and see — and who knows but some of our 
moving picture enterprises may yet bring the whole 
trip into the home glare ? — suffice it here to outhne 
the itinerary as it included Memphis, Beni-Hassan, 
Assiout, Denderah, Luxor, Thebes, Karnak, Kurna, 
Necropolis, Tombs of Kings, Deir-el-Bahri, Rames- 
seum, Esnah, Edfu, Kom-Ombo, Assuan, Philae and 
the "first cataract" from which the return trip began. 

One illustration of the human of the past appeal- 
ing so cogently to the human of the present day, was 

[49] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

at the extensive rock-tombs of Assiout. Excavations 
were proceeding there under the supervision of a 
courteous German archaeologist, and a few days before 
our visit a mummy had been uncovered, the case of 
which he had opened for us. These lonely scientists 
have troubles of their own, by the way. We heard 
of one superintendent of excavations who thought 
to hghten the labors of the fellahin by bringing in an 
invoice of wheelbarrows to take the place of the small 
baskets in which, on their backs, they carried the earth 
out of the "diggings." When after a few days' trial 
they came to hun to ask that they might go back to 
their baskets, he found that their yearning for the 
restoration came from the fact that they had not only 
substituted the wheelbarrows for the baskets to 
carry the earth, but had substituted them on their 
backs, and but faintly appreciated the good intention 
for emancipation of labor in carrying the wheel- 
barrows! In the particular mummy case referred to 
was preserved the very cane used by the one em- 
balmed some three thousand years before Christ. 
It was a plain staff, showing contact with the earth 
as he had walked with it — ^you could fairly hear its 
"thump, thump" — and visuaHzed him in a way that 
one would journey a good distance to experience. 
Another illustration was at the celebrated "Tombs 
of the Kings," some miles back across the river from 
Luxor. Descending by a long passage way into the 
very depths of a mountain, is seen the mummy of 
King^Amenophis II. of the XVIII. Dynasty (about 
1500 B.C.). It is one of the very few royal mummies 
now left where they were originally entombed, and 
you see it under an electric hght, the current of which 
also illuminates the passage way to it! The calm 
features are those upon which his generation looked, 
and some of the withered garlands are with it to tell 
of royal homage then. And somebody presses a 

[50] 




Relief of Cleopatra and Son, at Denderah 

A fine etching in stone. The reliefs on the eastern and western walls of 

the Temple of Hathor date from the time of Nero 

and other early Romem Emperors. 



] 



THE NILE TRIP 

modern button to enable us to look upon that face 
now and the touch of human makes the whole of the 
ages "akin." 

Another tie with the past that even more fell in 
with the musings and bent of a parson-saunterer, was 
the constant suggestion of the Christian touch with 
those regions and ruins in the early centuries of our 
era. Grosses, palimpsest over or amid older hiero- 
glyphics at many points, bear their testimony to 
Christian use of the old temples or parts of them, 
and picture to the eye the assembhes or anchorites 
who there bowed at the name of Jesus as generations 
before them had bent before the symbols of Amen- 
Ra. And the aggressive spirit of the old Christian 
worshippers has left its mark upon the images and 
ornaments of the older Egyptian rehgion. In one 
temple in particular, that of Hathor at Denderah, 
the carved heads of the goddess are almost without 
exception marred in some way, generally by the loss 
of the nose and not without grotesque effect. This 
is typical of the iconoclastic mind of the early 
Christians to beat down with axes and hammers 
idolatrous images. And Rameses the Great, whose 
statues, colossal and small, seem to have been struck 
off for distribution like photographs, by the dozen, 
has been a signal sufferer from this militant smashing 
habit of early Churchmen. Some one in fiction has 
imagined Rameses the Great revisiting the old 
scenes and much put out with this rack and ruin 
wrought on his proud effigies erected for all time, but 
not without consolation when acquainted with the 
wide publicity given him on the picture postals of his 
statues, with which modern tourists load the mails 
for all the world ! Incidental to that same temple at 
Denderah, was a tribute to the old Egyptian art. 
As we clambered down through narrow, dark passage 
ways and crawled through low openings to view in 

[51] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

the flash of magnesian Kght, paintings on the walls 
with their fresh-looking tints in the crypts much 
older than the superstructure, George, our assistant 
dragoman, with fine discrimination, said "See how 
much more feehng these have than those of the 
Roman period in the Temple above! These artists 
worked with sincerity in their old rehgion, that other 
work was show work for the early heathen Roman 
emperors and was done for pay." On the outer wall 
of the Temple there is a representation of Cleopatra 
and her son, Gsesarion. Rut it was at this same 
Denderah that we saw the remains of a large Chris- 
tian Church, with a shell ornament remarkably well 
preserved, dating from early in the fourth century. 
An so about this one great Temple the imagination 
could long linger and people anew the old Coptic 
Church, with its stalwarts looking upon the art and 
structures of the worship of vain gods with the senti- 
ment, "down with it, down with it even to the 
ground." 

And the saunterer wished many times he might 
explore more fully the habitat in Egypt of that 
primitive form of Christianity which has left so many 
marks. Rishops were thick at one time in Egypt, 
and to begin with, a Coptic tour could take in Thmuis 
in the Delta of Lower Egypt, from which we have the 
earhest fuU copy of a Christian hturgy, bearing 
the name of its Rishop, Sarapion. Then we would 
Hke to identify the places of hermits hke Paul — 
under the old Decian persecution — and Anthony 
about Thebes and its borders, Egypt being the native 
land of Monasticism, and they being the founders of 
the hermit Hfe in the third century. At Tabenna, 
Pachomius founded the first monastery and many 
another spot is associated with that current of mona- 
sticism with Egypt, of which Montalembert speaks: 
" Once begun floods of men, of women, and of children 

[52] 



THE NILE TRIP 

threw themselves into it, and flowed thither during 
a century with irresistible force." Such a tour would 
appeal strongly to many a lover of Church history 
and Coptic souvenirs would command more interest 
than scarabs. The saunterer was fortunate in being 
able to purchase an old Coptic slab about eighteen 
by eighteen inches in size, carved with Christian 
emblems, including the dove of the Holy Spirit, 
from our Dragoman George, himself a Copt, the 
marble having been found in excavating for the 
building of his father's house at Luxor. And the 
Doctor on the "Rameses the Great," Mr. M. B. Ray, 
M. D., added to his other courtesies the finding and 
presenting of an antique pectoral Coptic cross. At 
Assuan, by the thoughtful provision of Canon Yates, 
the Chaplain of St. Mark's Enghsh Church, of whose 
many kindnesses we shall have more to say later in 
our circuit, we added some interesting Egyptian 
curios to our collection and visited a modern Coptic 
Church and had an enjoyable interview with the 
priests and authorities. 

This story of our sauntering on the Nile, as it 
closes, at any rate differs from that sermon which 
was called "finished" because it left nothing outl 
To think of the things omitted, impressions and ex- 
pressions, history and mystery, customs and changes, 
leaves one nothing to do but ask, "Are they not 
written in the Books of the Chronicles of Baedeker 
and WaUis Budge ?" 



53 



CAIRO • EGYPTIAN MUSEUM • 
UNIVERSITY • OLD CAIRO 

THERE is a sort of "to-be-continued" bracket, 
like that which follows an instalment of a 
serial story, to be placed after the rounding 
out of the Nile trip. On the trip itself while 
visiting the scenes of many rare "finds" such as the 
tombs of the Kings, or the "Cave of Treasures" at 
Deir-el-Bahri the reaHzation that many of the finds 
themselves were carefully kept at the Museum of 
Egyptian Antiquities in Cairo whetted the curiosity 
more and more as site after site was visited, to take 
the earHest opportunity on the return to Cairo to go 
to the Museum. Accordingly with the expert Drago- 
man Gladius Morgan, well known to some of our good 
California friends whom he "conducted" in years 
gone by, we found the Museum a natural continuation 
of the river archaeology. And it is safe to say that 
to anyone with any instinct at all to "burrow into 
the past" there is not a more absorbing collection of 
antiquities anywhere in the world. The great 
Museum itself is a tribute to the perseverance and 
genius of some of the most notable Egyptologists 
— beginning with Mariette and including the last 
eminent Director M. Maspero and the Conservator 
Emil Brugsch Pasha to whom the arrangement and 
classification of the antiquities are chiefly due. 
Brugsch Pasha's friendship for a dear parishioner of 
my St. James' days. Miss Mary Coles, dating from 
his visit to the Philadelphia Centennial of 1876, 
afforded me the opportunity to meet him and to 
experience his courtesies. With the fine modern 
housing of the collection it is difficult to reahze the 

[54] 



^ 




B t» S.5J B S fl (( 

-•« roS £:= S » c 



- 03 



EGYPTIAN MUSEUM— OLD CAIRO 

obstacles its promoters first encountered to find a 
place to put it, being literally driven from pillar to 
post-office, the government authorities of the time 
somewhat grudgingly granting it space in an old 
unsuitable building of the mail department. 

The collection itself though now thoroughly cata- 
logued and corridored spreads out like a veritable 
maze to the saunterer. The only possible thing is to 
treat it menu-like, tell the Dragoman what you would 
especially like to see in the time you have and then 
"keep up with him, " resolutely overcoming the neck- 
twisting habit towards every captivating case you 
pass. And just there comes the advantage of having 
a thoroughly well posted, inteUigent and authorized 
guide. As we were hstening to the few well chosen 
descriptive comments of Gladius while looking at 
the mummy of the supposed Pharoah of the Exodus, 
one of another party of tourists sidled up to him and 
asked him a question in a rueful state of mind over 
the inefficiency of the guide they incautiously picked 
up on the street! Verbum Sap. One thing on our 
Hst was the wooden statue from Sakkarah of a village 
chief (Sheikh el-Beled) an account of the finding of 
which years ago had interested me and served as an 
illustration betimes in sermons. It was said that 
when in the gloom of the excavation underground the 
workmen came upon this statue they ran out terrified 
with the thought that they had uncovered a five 
man whose two eyes were gleaming at them in the 
darkness. It was explained by the curious fact that 
the eyes were found inset in the statue. There were 
pieces of opaque white quartz with pupils formed of 
rock crystal and framed with thin plates of pohshed 
bronze, the edges of which formed the eyehds. When 
the fight struck them they seemed "things of fife" 
and we can well understand suggested prompt absen- 
teeism to those who had the "first view." 

[55] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

Mention can only be made of a few of the other 
objects of interest which made the visit memorable: 
the notable cow of Hathor found in 1906; coffins, jars, 
bedstead used in life — the plaited flax on which is 
curved by use — Chair of State and other articles from 
the tomb of the Father and Mother of Queen Thi 
(about B. G. 1450) found in 1905 and constituting 
what has been called "the most curious and gorgeous 
funeral furniture which has ever been seen in an 
Egyptian tomb"; the decorated chariot from the 
tomb of Thotmes IV. about B. G. 1466 excavated in 
1902 and 1903 and many Goptic antiquities. The 
royal mummies and the mummies of the priests found 
huddled together in places we had seen, where it is 
thought they were hastily gathered up from their 
respective rock tombs to save them in some past age 
from the despoihng of invaders, had a deep interest 
as did the household utensils of the time of the old 
dynasties — razors, carpenter's planes, rules, etc., and 
it seemed to visualize a priest of the time to look upon 
one of his pink sHppers — perhaps color shod for some 
season of Amen-Ra! What we were thus able to 
pick out from the vast collection did to some extent 
mitigate the aggravation which I suppose every one 
must feel at not being able to take in more of the 
fascinating experience. But it would indeed require 
some cycles for reckoning through our dynasties A. 
D. to do that at all exhaustively, and we turn away 
from those corridors of the past with a new sense that 
"Forever haltless hurries time the durable to gain." 

"Blooming" is not just the adjective we would 
think of applying to a great modern university. 
Nor is "the gate of the barbers " the kind of name the 
portal to academic shades now suggests, though our 
Curricula are open to "Short-cuts." But to omit 
to visit the great Mohammedan University Gamia 
el-Azhar — "the blooming," passing through the Bab 

[56] 



EGYPTIAN MUSEUM— OLD CAIRO 

el-Mizaiyinin — "the Gate of the Barbers" (because 
the students used to have their heads shaved there) 
is to lose one of the notable sights of the Moslem 
world. Indeed a recent Review writer, the Rev. 
W. H. T. Gairdner in The East and The West, July, 
1911, says that a mediaeval Oxford visitor would have 
seen then in El-Azhar a scene in no essential particular 
different from the one that greets us there today, 
the squatting, swaying figures, on which he would 
have gazed, the flowing garments, the circles of 
students sitting at the feet of their Gamaliels, the 
Arabic they were talking, the very sciences they were 
acquiring — aU these things would have been then to 
all intents and purposes what they are today. In 
El-Azhar we have a scene from the middle ages pre- 
served to us a perfect specimen, " hving, breathing 
and entire. ' ' In other words here you have a ' ' moving 
picture" of the middle age university Hfe of Islam. 
Some shght modernism has been working around, if 
not in, it, including that of graft as well as revised 
statutes and modifications of curriculum and system 
under Khedivial patronage from which also have 
come some improvements in the way of sanitation, 
enlargement and embelhshment. But it has been 
said that it is impossible to change the curriculum 
without a riot. And as the ten thousand students 
more or less drone away over the Koran and allied 
studies as law, grammer, rhetoric, logic, etc., with 
*'super-super-coBamentaries" stratified by tradition, 
so wooden have the methods of instruction become 
that the government for the sheer necessity of turn- 
ing out men versed in the canon law of Islam to fill 
the lower and higher grades of routine administra- 
tion, has started a school of canon law outside of the 
university itself, canon law being the one subject for 
which El-Azhar really exists I As one makes the 
rounds of the University he is struck with the group- 

[57] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

ings of students on sectional Hnes, quarters being 
assigned to respective constituents from various 
regions of the earth including dormitories and dining 
provisions not at all suggestive of our notions of col- 
lege or club homes in customs or comforts or savors. 
As indicative of the persistent dream of Islam of 
evangeHzing the world and its own "Men and 
Rehgion Movement" that has made so much his- 
tory, I noticed on the walls of one of the offices maps 
of the world marked with areas and prophecies of 
progress, and GaHfornia was weU on the map as by 
no means a negUgible quantity. But it is significant 
that Moslem writers themselves are severe in their 
arraignment of the failure of their system to cope 
with Christian progress, and the estimate of their 
University seems to be that it is losing prestige just 
because its training is fatgd to any modern intellectual 
leadership or even missionary impulse. Perhaps too 
they need a Httle football, and what a language is 
theirs for explosive efi'orts in college yells I 

The beginning of the Mosque-school which later 
grew into the University in A. D. 970 carries us back 
to the time when the old G£uro of today was the 
capital and the modern Cairo was finding its begin- 
ning. So after visiting the citadel with its overlook 
of the whole city, and the alabaster mosque, the 
saimterer wiU be allowed to omit reference to many 
famUiar points and historical dates and pass to what 
was to him the most interesting part of the drago- 
m£in's round. Perhaps it might be said further that 
the parson's pursuit carried the day's doings some- 
what outside of the usual beaten path as some of the 
points our candid guide said he was seldom called 
upon to visit. Some three or fom* miles from the 
center of modern Cairo is the site of the old Roman 
fortress of Babylon, itself beheved to be on a more 
ancient foundation. Its associations with early 

[58] 




II 






2-0 



'5H 






'SSS.' 



r* "a 00 O -* .» HI '^ £ 



<P << 



5 O 2 CO 
''S-a oat* 









EGYPTIAN MUSEUM— OLD CAIRO 

Christianity gave the particular zest to this part of 
the sight-seeing. And the effect of mosque contacts 
seem to be rather to make one turn with the greater 
alacrity towards something Christian, even if it is 
lacking in that virtue next to godhness which the 
buildings of that old Babylon ingEgypt for the most 
part certainly were. No Hne of orthodoxy seems to 
characterize the dust of the ages or the denizens. 
The Coptic churches all have an interest of their own 
and Abu Sergeh we find by threading our way through 
a dense mass of houses standing well towards the 
middle of the old fortress of Babylon. The dark 
crypt (twenty by fifteen feet) is associated in the 
legend with the visit of the Virgin and infant Christ 
when they fled to Egypt to avoid the wrath of Herod. 
They are said to have spent a month there (but I 
fear the average tourist is skeptical), though the crypt 
is much older than the superstructure which seemed 
to have served as a model for Coptic churches and has 
notable ancient carvings and inlaid work of ivory. 
We reverently fingered awhile in it as the Coptic 
priest was celebrating Mass assisted by his fittle boy 
and wife who were the only ones present. The 
service seemed to lack continuity as well as congrega- 
tion as it went on, but it was in evidence as the old 
Coptic rite. Not far from Abu Sergeh is the Church 
of El-MoUaka suspended between two bastions of 
the old fortress, the oldest church in this Egyptian 
Babylon. Here the fittle party said the Creed and 
some prayers and I climbed into the ancient pulpit 
which is one of the most valuable furnishings of the 
old church and must be saturated with sermons. 
The Church of Santa Barbara, who was martyred 
during the persecution of Maximin, was nearby and 
in that are preserved several paintings of the Saint 
and in an iron casket refics of the Saint. After stop- 
ping in at an old synagogue to see what is claimed to 

[59] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

be the oldest Hebrew Bible on rolls and the traditional 
"Moses* Seat" we returned to the hotel to try to 
"collect our thoughts" which had been "aviating" 
over so many centuries and civiUzations. 

And a good deal might be added about the com- 
forts of sleep for the weary pilgrim as "Shep- 
heard's" provides them, and the dreamland where 
the wanderer can consort with the ancients, and 
especially with that Pharaoh who had previous 
experiences in that same land, to say nothing of 
his chief butler and chief baker. 



[60] 



LAKD OF GOSHEN • BEIRUT • 
LEBANON • BAALBEK 

Heber's visuaKzing lines in his well-used 
world-evangel hymn have singular exact- 
ness and beauty when they sing: "Where 
Afric's sunny fountains roll down their 
golden sand." At Assouan where the clear sun- 
shine flooded the high sand hills sloping to the river 
bank with a rich aurous tinge and on the railway 
journey from Cairo to Port Said this was especially 
noticeable. At Tel-el-Kebir there was that strange 
lure of an historic battlefield in looking out over the 
low yellow sand ranges, and the soldiers' cemetery 
near by gave a tragic touch of modernism as it told 
of the sands stained by the bloodshed in the defeat 
of the rebellion under Arabi Pasha on September 13th, 
1882, by the army under Sir Garnet Wolseley. And 
even the casual saunterer cannot but be impressed 
by the significance of that event and of the British 
influence in Egypt since, with which that event had so 
much to do. One need not try to thread the maze of 
international diplomacies or of counter criticisms of 
poHcies that have grown out of that overlordship to 
recognize highminded agencies Hke that of the late 
Mr. John M. Cook, head of the well known firm of 
Thomas Cook & Son, who transported the wounded 
from Tel-el-Keber to Cairo and proved a friend of 
both British and Egyptians in many patriotic ways 
that should be recognized and remembered outside of 
the business skill in creating the happy generations 
of "Cook's Tourists," or of Lord Cromer, one of the 
greatest race regenerators of modern times. The 
opinion of one of our own distinguished American 

[61] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

diplomats and statesmen, Ex-Secretary of State, the 
Hon. John W. Foster (in his Diplomatic Memoirs, 
Vol. II, p. 64), seems well worth quoting here. "Up 
to the time I visited (Egypt) in 1893," he says, "a 
wonderful transformation had been effected under 
British control. The financial condition had been 
completely reversed. Order had taken the place of 
lawlessness, and hfe and property were everywhere 
safe. A number of reforms had been brought about, 
such as the abolition of forced labor, taxes were 
equally levied and honestly collected; justice was 
impartially administered; a general system of educa- 
tion had been established; railroads had been ex- 
tended; irrigation, the essential need of the country, 
had been greatly increased, and was better main- 
tained than ever before." 

But the railway journey soon recalls you to the 
older civihzations, as you reahze that you are passing 
through the veritable "land of Goshen." Gar- 
window outlooks show the indications of fertility and 
cultivation and the modern canal, in part a restora- 
tion of a very ancient canal, brings the fresh water 
from the Nile for irrigation and other purposes and 
clothes the land with grateful verdue. Pithom and 
Raamses were somewhere there, store-houses built 
by the Israehtes under the task-masters of Pharoah 
whose exactions of "brick without straw" have 
made the proverb, and old fashioned children were 
brought up on the story of Joseph and the hard- 
hearted Pharoah that "knew not Joseph." Some 
of the excavators are reasonably sure of their identi- 
fications. But what the saunterer is apt to identify 
more in his childhood concern in hstening to the old 
Bible story — a sort of instinct in the labor question 
— is to have someone get even with those bold bad 
Egyptians who made the fives of the Israelites"bitter 
with hard bondage in mortar and in brick, and in all 

[62] 



THE LAND OF GOSHEN 

manner of service in the field." And that, too, after 
Joseph had been such a good man to them in his day. 
If Rameses the Second had anything to do with it 
this certainly can be pleaded in extenuation of the 
failure of the earHer Christians to restrain them- 
selves from smashing the nose now and then of his 
ubiquitous statues! "Goshen," says the Baedeker, 
"may be located in the triangle between Zakazik, 
Belbeis, and Abu Hammad," but the saunterer knows 
it best between the lids of the Bible, and while the car 
windows open out upon the green landscape the mind 
pictures the hard times of the Hebrews and traces a 
training in the "love of the old" to one of its truest 
sources in boyhood blessed with a Christian home and 
the Bible. 

The railroad to Port Said skirts the great Suez 
Canal with its big steamers moving at slow regulation 
speed with a sort of aspect of humiUation at being 
subjected to the smooth shallow waters and land 
lubbers restraints, like an automobile drawn by a 
horse. The American inevitably finds a bump of 
self-consciousness developing, "Wait, till you see 
our Panama Canal!" and a GaHfornian adds, "And 
our Panama-Pacific Exposition." We remember, 
too, that it was somewhere along that canal where 
the Hawaiian King, Kamehameha the HI., found a 
luncheon provided for him consisting entirely of 
sandwiches, the local authorities in anticipation of 
the royal visit having transposed the tidings of a 
telegram which tried to convey the order for a proper 
menu for the King of the Sandwich Islands! 

Port Said is modern "from the ground up," and 
our steamer for Syria made good connections with 
the train so that we were soon saihng out past the 
notable Hghthouse and the statue of Ferdinand de 
Lesseps on our way to Beirut before which we 
anchored early the next morning. Quite unex- 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

pectedly we found we were to have an extended 
opportunity to view Beirut and the coast-Hnes 
deliberately from the steamer's deck, as we at once 
learned that we were to be in quarantine for twenty- 
four hours. It was one of those Oriental "ways that 
are dark," as the examination showed a clear bill of 
health of all on board and our medical authorities 
did not seem to take themselves with marked serious- 
ness. The only explanation that was vouchsafed was 
that there were rumors of some ill that flesh is heir 
to in Egypt whence we had sailed. What was sug- 
gested, however, as more reaching to the real inward- 
ness was a quarantine "spat" between Syria and 
Egypt who do not altogether love each other as 
brothers, and it was even hinted that the opportunity 
for a special quarantine examination fee of two 
francs per person was not without its inducement. 
However, with clear weather and the snow-capped 
Lebanons in the perspective and the bold and 
attractive outlines of the city itself before us the day 
passed pleasantly, and "reading-up" about the sacred 
places we were about to visit took some of its hours. 
It was a great pleasure to find on board an old Phila- 
delphian friend, Mr. Herbert Welsh, well known for 
his public spirit in many national movements for 
reform. 

On disembarking it was a satisfaction to find an 
EngHsh Chapel for the Sunday services, and we 
visited the sea Grottoes — stopping for a moment to 
leave a card for President BHss of the imposing 
American Presbyterian College — ^the flag of which 
was the most welcome "color" after aU ingthe wealth 
of hues under the Syrian sunshine, — and drove to 
Dog River with the ancient Assyrian and other carv- 
ings on the scarp of the ravine through which it 
enters the sea. It was something of a surprise to 
find what a progressive missionary educational center 

[64] 



THE LAND OF GOSHEN 

as well as abode of wealth Beirut has become. It is 
the residence of a Roman Archbishop, a Greek Ortho- 
dox Bishop and Maronite — i. e., Syrian alHance of 
the Roman Church — Archbishop, and with modern 
water-works is considered the healthiest town on the 
Syrian coast. 

When from the ship we had the distant view of 
the white peaks of Lebanon gleaming in the sunlight 
we did not reahze that the next arm of our journey 
was to take us so close to those same heights that we 
could have had a snow-balling party with the very 
"snow of Lebanon," of which Jeremiah speaks, by 
simply stepping from the train, if we had been so 
minded. The railroad across the mountains perhaps 
cannot vie with that "crookedest one in the world" 
up our California Mount Tamalpais, but in places it 
is almost as steep when the locomotive is reinforced 
with a cog and clutch device. And the scenic quahty 
of it adds to the wonderful vistas of landscape and 
ocean the interest in many ancient mountain villages, 
some of them with the dire association with the ter- 
rible massacres of Christians in 1860 — illustrating 
the "violence of Lebanon" of Habakkuk — which so 
stirred the world. Summer residences of Beirut 
people are also in evidence, and with strange incon- 
gruity one station is pointed out as "the Monte 
Carlo of Syria" — a gambhng hell amid the "glory of 
Lebanon " ! Surviving at various points are groves of 
the "big trees," the cedars of Lebanon, which once 
grew abundantly over the mountain and were used 
in the construction of the Temple of Solomon. A 
stmnp nearly fifteen feet in diameter is noted by a 
traveler as one of the largest which might possibly 
come within the "cotilhon" possibilities of the Cali- 
fornia boast of tree size. However, our party aired 
no home "big talk" to speak of, on the whole trip, 
which seems a memorandum for which we think we 

[65] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

may ask due accrediting considering all the Cali- 
fornia consciousness we carried. And we could only 
get a glimpse in the far distance at the place of one 
of the chief groves of cedars left. The distinction 
given to the "Cedars of Lebanon" in Jotham's 
parable is perpetuated in the provision of a Maronite 
Chapel near that grove where the people have 
occasional festivals. 

The conspicious "Six Columns" of Baalbek 
loomed up some time before the train reached that 
destination for the day and from groves that were 
"first temples" we turned to the great temple in that 
seat of the worship of Baal, or Helios of the Greeks 
and Jupiter of the Romans, as well as of Mercury, 
Venus and Bacchus. With the expert guidance of 
Mr. Michel M. Alouf, whose "History of Baalbek" 
is an authority, we were enabled to "do" the ruin as 
intelhgently as possible to the passing tourist, and 
to distinguish its features as heathen temple. Chris- 
tian Chapel and Mohammedan fortress. Mr. Alouf 
among many choice citations for the archaeologist 
as well as for the parson traveler furnishes one which 
we quote as a sample both of his research and of the 
Christian interest in the ruin. "Constantine the 
Great contented himself with closing the temples 
of the Greeks, but Theodosius destroyed them. He 
transformed into a Christian Church the temple of 
Heliopolis, that of Baal — Helios, Baal, Sun, etc." 
With such a glow and charm of color as Robert 
Hichens in "The Holy Land," both in tinted illustra- 
tions and pen pictures, throws about Baalbek, there 
is no need to do more here than to refer to that book 
and Mr. Alouf's, for any one to catch the spirit of 
what Hichens calls "a magic of strangeness" in the 
place. The scale and size of it all must seem to any 
one stupendous and with the famiHar photographs 
and description of the ruins I have seen, the actual 

[66] 



THE LAND OF GOSHEN 

vision expanded out to the eye as instinctively as the 
measure of the conventional man standing near 
enables the camera to convey the real height of the 
building it photographs. The height of the Columns 
and their massive parts, the courses of the walls show- 
ing some single blocks sixty-nine by fourteen by 
sixteen feet — and at the quarry not far off there is 
lying a like monohth only partially tooled — as well 
as the area covered by the whole, leaves a sense of 
bulk difficult to convey. One writer sees in it all a 
Roman trait which he puts as follows: "The Ro- 
mans had seen the huge Jewish stones at Jerusalem 
and began at Baalbek to work on a bigger scale, the 
Barnums of the ancient world, whose ambition was 
to run the biggest show on earth." But there came 
a thought at the time of our being in the spell of the 
visit, as I then associated it in Mr. Alouf's book, 
which, though it may be a mere fancy, does at least 
note a passing reverie: Did not the power Chris- 
tianity was steadily gaining in those early centuries 
and in that part of the old world stimulate the con- 
temporary emperors of Rome to great exploitation 
of the pagan cult by lavishing expenditure upon such 
a monumental temple ? 



67 



AJVri-LEBANON • THE RIVER 
ABANA • DAMASCUS 

A WORLD census of people away from home at 

1% any given moment, if it were possible, would 
/ ^ make an interesting showing. And Gali- 
_Z_ » fornians would not be the "least among the 
tribes" in any such numbering. Sitting with us at 
the dining hour in the httle hotel at Baalbek we could 
exchange greetings with two from our Oakland who 
happened to be in that remote corner of the earth, 
and at Reyak, a junction point on the railroad, in the 
shifting of trainloads it was our great pleasure to find 
Mrs. Dibblee of Ross, and later to have her for a 
fellow traveler in some of our journeyings. The 
comradeship of country in those far-off parts makes 
lasting attachments and tingles the blood anew with 
the sentiment "I am a Galifornian." 

From Reyak after passing through a valley with 
its oaks, plane-trees and wild rose bushes, the rail- 
way begins to ascend the Anti-Lebanon range, reach- 
ing as its highest elevation four thousand six hundred 
and ten feet and opening out fine mountain views as 
did our crossing of Lebanon in going to Baalbek. The 
Lebanons are to Syria what our Sierras are to GaH- 
fornia. "Four great rivers," says Dr. George Adam 
Smith, "pass from the Lebanons across the length 
and breadth of the provinces." These are the 
Orontes, the Abana, the Litany and the Jordan. 
One wonders whether some future century will see 
them all harnessed to Hght and power companies 1 

As the train winds around in the valley of the 
Abana, here and there patches of cultivation and 
fruit orchards again suggest home scenes, but signs 

[68] 



ANTI-LEBANON— DAMASCUS 

of thoroughfares of other ages make the saunterer 
wish he could have time to stop and explore the can- 
yons which have been historic pathways. There, far 
above the river at one place, are the remains of a road 
skilfully hewn in the rock by the engineers of Marcus 
Aurelius. Below the road runs the line of an ancient 
aqueduct. Fleeing from Mohammedan conquerors. 
Christians in the seventh century sought refuge over 
those pathways and in those fastnesses high up — 
perhaps in some of those very ruins of temples and 
tombs of which we get snatch-glimpses as the cars 
hurry on. But as we descend towards the plain the 
river widens and speeds into rapids. Modern villas 
indicate approach to larger centers of population, and 
then the minarets of Damascus in the distance loom 
up, and soon we are in the city itself and learn that 
to be the oldest city in the world is far from meaning 
the city of senile torpidity. Indeed, with the in- 
coming of a trainload of tourists, the scenes about 
the railroad station in general hveliness and babel 
might make our San Francisco Market Street Ferry 
runners feel their hubbub to be only a hush. Our 
faithful dragoman, Joseph, however, here as else- 
where throughout our Syrian trip, soon had us com- 
fortably housed in our rooms at the hotel. Our win- 
dows immediately overlooked the "golden stream," 
Abana, rushing by with only a street's width between 
it and the hotel, and we had been riding so many 
hours by its side that it seemed like an old friend. 
And we did not wonder that the little captive maid 
of Israel had to quiet down Naaman the Syrian when 
with the pride of his native streams he asked: "are 
not Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, better 
than all the waters of Israel?" (2 Kings 5:12.) 

One of the first questions we asked Joseph was: 
Do they try to point out the exact spot where the 
conversion of St. Paul occurred ? The locahty 

[691 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

claimed is some little distance from the city and we 
had no opportunity to visit it or to study the prob- 
abihty of the claim, but the question itself shows 
what is apt to be uppermost in the mind of the 
Christian visitor. He may recall the association 
with the Steward of Abraham, "Eliezer of Damas- 
cus, " and perhaps with Abraham himself, who must 
have journeyed through that region; the fervid de- 
scriptions of the beauty of Damascus which in the 
story so appealed to Mohammed when, as a camel 
driver, he viewed it from a near elevation, that he 
refused to enter it lest he should be content to stay 
there and reUnquish Paradise — ^the "spell of Damas- 
cus" can be understood; the simon-pure Orientahsm 
it exhibits may be duly appreciated and the char- 
acteristic devotion to Islam may afford noteworthy 
traits, but with it all, to the thoughtful Christian 
sojourners I beheve the genius of the place which 
will most command their interest will be its identi- 
fication with that personaHty, Saul, who became 
Paul. It is one of the marked phenomena of Chris- 
tian history that the world spots which have had 
contacts with Christ and His leaders are apt to be 
more widely famous in their modern interests for 
that than for any other notable events in their 
history, however ancient or prominent. Jerusalem, 
Tarsus, Constantinople are in evidence of this. 

And so one of the first places visited is "the 
Street which is called Straight" — of which Mark 
Twain thought that there must be some latent humor 
in noting that it is called Straight! — and the sup- 
posed site of the house of Judas, with whom St. Paul 
stayed, and the house of good Ananias — and it is 
curious that there was at Damascus a guardian Judas 
and a truthful Ananias, as if to redeem both of those 
names from evil report. Then, of course, there is 
the wall of Damascus to be seen, and the very place 

[70] 










is. 






'B--|- 



» o. 



I 



ANTI-LEBANON— DAMASCUS 

pointed out where St. Paul was let down in the 
basket. But I fear even Joseph, the dragoman, was 
skeptical about the exact spot on the wall. His 
attitude of mind seemed a httle hke that of a GaH- 
fornia stage driver, one of the "old regime," with 
whom I once rode many miles "on the bridge." He 
confided in me that he had names and stories for all 
striking objects on his route; "For," said he, "these 
tourists are not happy until they get them !" 

No fond fictions of "street and number," however, 
need disturb the keen satisfaction of knowing that 
the city itself saw the working out of that turning 
point in the life of the Great Apostle. There it was, 
and no mistake, where the one who with all his heart 
thought he ought to do many things contrary to the 
name of Jesus of Nazareth became a " new creation 
in Christ Jesus" and learned to say, "by the grace of 
God I am what I am." And that could hardly help 
being the real "spell of Damascus" to a parson 
saunterer. To be sure, there was no lack of environ- 
ment tending to dispel it. The site of the house of 
Judas was covered by a small mosque, Straight 
Street was fined with busy bazaars not always sug- 
gestive of the street named in their indirect, haggfing 
Oriental ways of doing business. The Church of 
St. John Baptist, which tradition says was on the 
site of "the House of Rimmon," has given place to 
the great Omayyade Mosque, the Mohammedans 
having for a while aUowed the Christians to occupy 
a portion of their former church. And the nearly 
two hundred and fifty mosques and colleges in 
Damascus and the cult everywhere could easily 
create an atmosphere of depression for the Chris- 
tian traveler, if he yielded to it. But the whole ejffect 
with aU its picturesque and antiquarian features is far 
from fikefihood to make one wish to " settle there," 
that being the test of attractions especially valid to 

[71] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

admirers of a California town. And a city may be 
known, too, by its street cries. What can be said 
of the "city beautiful" taste of a place where, betray- 
ing a unique estimate of the use of the floral kingdom, 
among the street cries the flower sellers shout salih 
hamatak — the translation of which, alas, is "appease 
your mother-in-law" — and the Baedeker consider- 
ately adds, "i. e., by presenting her with a bouquet!" 
That the "Damascus blade" is still in evidence was 
shown in a richly jeweled ^scimeter exhibited in one 
of the shops as made for the lately deposed Sultan of 
Turkey. 

On the grand round the workers in brass are 
visited and many artistic articles can be bought and 
watched in the making. Little tots of children are 
there in numbers, some of these showing precocious 
skill, but the thought is inevitable, what a field for 
a "child labor" reform I When the mind begins to 
work upon questions of reform, however, the "off- 
duty" feehng prevails and the sigh comes, we have 
troubles enough of our own at home. It would be a 
serious mistake, however, not to recognize many 
marks of happy life, and it is wisely made part of the 
dragoman's sightseeing guidance to take the visitors 
to some of the residences in order to have glimpses 
both upon the domestic Ufe and the rich furnishings 
of the houses of the wealthy. There is no space to 
speak of the long, varied and at times particularly 
stirring history of Damascus. But there is one of 
the most interesting experiences of aU which can be 
referred to as having in it a revelation of what may 
prove to be prophecy. The Great Mosque above 
named has obhterated every possible Christian 
feature from its interior with a true Mohammedan 
instinct of suppression. But by wending our way 
down an alley on the outside and with some difficulty 
securing a ladder to clamber over the roofs of small 

[72] 



I 



ANTI-LEBANON— DAMASCUS 

buildings adjacent to the outside wall, by bending 
down I saw cut in clear lettering in the stone the verse 
strangely allowed to remain, and in such a setting 
strikingly historic and comfortingly prophetic, which, 
translated, is: "Thy kingdom, Christ, is an 
everlasting kingdom and Thy dominion endureth 
throughout all ages." 



731 



A RELIGIOUS RAILROAD • SEA 
OF GALILEE • CAPERNAUM 

THE "Mecca Express" would now probably 
sound strange to the ear of a devout Muslim 
but that is what seems probable in a future 
folder for pilgrims of the Hajaz Railway. 
This railway was begun in 1901 by the late Sultan of 
TiKkey, Abdul Hamid II., to join Damascus with 
Mecca. The railroad is still under construction and 
subsidies for it were in debate in the Turkish Parlia- 
ment when we were in Constantinople, and a debate 
with all the up-to-date embelHshment of suiting fist- 
in-the-face to its action for the opponent, the blow 
causing no small stir in the assembly as well as in 
the "scareheads" of the newspapers. The unique 
featiu-e of this pilgrimage railway is its distinct 
rehgious motive. We have railroads in California, 
where, to be sure, our brakemen often call off cata- 
logues of the Saints, e. g., San Mateo, San Jose, San 
Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, etc. — and one of our 
veteran clergy had in earlier days the somewhat 
novel position of "Chaplain" of a railroad which, 
under the rigid laws, quahfied him for a pass as an 
officer of the road; and another veteran missionary 
in whose field was San Ardo explained to me that San 
Ardo was a Saint canonized by the Southern Pacific 
Railroad and the Postoffice Department, they hav- 
ing agreed to cut out the "Bern" from the previous 
name of San Bernardo in order to avoid confusion 
with San Bernardino. But generally speaking rail- 
roads are not purely pious enterprises. And this 
same Hajaz Railway bids fair to be a subtile fautor 
of crass modernism for the Musfim. The tourist him- 

[74] 



SEA OF GALILEE— CAPERNAUM 

self becomes conscious of this and is disabused of any 
ideas he might have entertained that the extreme 
age of Damascus implied a "sleepy town" when he 
has to arise at four in the morning to take the train — 
even though in deference to Oriental antipathy to 
haste the train may not start for an hour and a half 
after he is "all aboard." And whatever may be the 
effect in prestige upon the faithful of ultimately 
"ticketing through" the eleven hundred and eigh- 
teen miles instead of trudging it with the patient 
"ship of the desert" or otherwise, it is very evident 
that the faithful take to it very kindly and perhaps 
the iron horse will do things about those parts that 
the Crusader's horse could not do. Pilgrims were 
swarming about the station in the early dawn, and 
one group from Persia in their picturesque costume 
sitting on the ground in a circle at their breakfast, 
was especially interesting, as was the general hubbub 
of the entraining. 

Our faces were duly turned toward Mecca as far 
as Derat, supposed to be the ancient Edrei where 
Og, King of Bashan, he of big bedstead fame — and 
the wonder is that the bed is not shown — lost the 
battle to Moses, some seventy-seven miles from 
Damascus — and then we turned off on the branch 
Kne opened in October, 1905, to bring the pilgrims 
from Haifa on the coast. We would not willingly 
have missed this installment of the real "Going to 
Mecca" with our motley fellow passengers, and were 
gratified that our itinerary was by this rather than 
by the parallel railway of the "Societe du Ghemin 
de Fer Damas-Hama et Prolongements," the first 
railway built in Syria, in 1894, and on one fine of 
which we had come from Beirut to Damascus. 
(Here we have another familiar modern feature of 
"parallel railroads" over those remote pathways of 
the ancients.) 

[75i] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

A ride of about fifty miles carried us through the 
Hauran and Decapolis and for some distance in the 
wild-flowered valley of the River Yarmuk, which 
showed skillful engineering at many bold points for 
the railroad, and with an object lesson of the exposure 
to violence of the few isolated inhabitants in our tak- 
ing aboard a man recently seriously stabbed by 
bandits. We left the cars at Samakh, the station 
on the Sea of Galilee, over six hundred feet below the 
level of the Mediterranean. There is a good deal of 
uncertainty as to the weather effects the traveler 
will find as he comes in sight of that sheet of water, 
of more interest and more written about than any 
other lake in the world. And that makes very 
vivid descriptions of it as it was associated with 
our Lord. A fellow traveler who had visited it just 
before we were there found the surface thrashed 
with storm, and in describing her own anxiety and 
that of the others in the puny boat, reflected the 
famihar scene when "there arose a great tempest in 
the sea, insomuch that the ship was covered with 
waves." Our first view of it in its serenity amid the 
glory and the gloom of the surrounding hills sug- 
gested rather the winds and sea obeying Him, Who 
spake the "Peace be still" when there was the great 
calm. Curiously enough on one of our expeditions 
when we joined a larger party in small boats towed 
by a launch, a copious leak developed in our httle 
craft and so we were not altogether without un- 
mistakable symptoms of nervousness on the part of 
some in the boat — though there was no real danger — 
to enable them to sample the sensation. 

The row of several miles from the railroad station 
to Tiberias gave good opportunity to study our oars- 
men, the boat, the shore and the general contour of 
that historic "surface of sparkhng blue," around 
which we are told in our Lord's time there were nine 

[76] 



« SEA OF GALILEE— CAPERNAUM 

cities each with a population of not less than fifteen 
thousand, forming "an almost unbroken ring of 
building" around the lake which is nearly thirteen 
miles long and eight miles wide at its greatest breadth 
with its greatest depth varying from one hundred and 
thirty-seven to one hundred and fifty-seven feet. 
Now Tiberias with a population of about five thou- 
sand and three or four small villages and the wander- 
ing Bedouin and still more wandering tourists are all 
the humanity "in those coasts." And strangely 
enough while the Gospels record so many associa- 
tions of Christ with the Lake of Gennesaret they 
have no mention that Tiberias was ever visited by 
Him. And so this place has even perpetuated the 
name of the Roman Emperor Tiberius, given it by 
Herod who beheaded John the Baptist, (and as some 
think it was at this very Tiberias, the Capital, that 
Herod made the rash promise to the daughter of 
Herodias,) as if in the more signal contrast with 
the destruction and almost obKteration of Bethsaida, 
Chorazin and Capernaum in fulfilment of the dire 
woes specifically uttered over them. " Thy paths are 
in the great waters " is an instinctive text as one takes 
the trips from Tiberias to the supposed sites of the 
Bible places and passes the shores once so thick with 
events of our Lord's life and that of His Apostles. 
The identification of Capernaum seems to the arch- 
aeologists more probable than that of some others, 
and we spent sufficient time there to go over the 
ruins and see the lone Franciscan Father who is the 
custodian of the property, his one brother Franciscan 
companion having died. Clambering over the tum- 
bled blocks of stone with traces of carving here and 
there, we found what seemed to be the interesting 
reUc noted by some of the antiquarians who have 
written of their investigations of the site. What 
looked hke the representation of a pot of manna on a 

[771 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

large stone which may have been the hntel of the old 
synagogue has suggested to some, hke Edersheim, 
that this may have been the very symbol over the 
door of the synagogue built by the good Centurion, 
to which the Master is thought to have pointed 
in his teaching at Capernaum (see St. John's sixth 
chapter) when He contrasted the hving Bread with 
the manna which the fathers ate in the wilderness. 
As one looks back upon it, it all seems something hke 
a dream land-and-water experience, a sort of abstract 
Bible reading and picturing over again, and almost 
too much of a reahzation to be true, of the desire of a 
life-time to have the actual seeing of the eye of such 
sacred spots. And we scanned eagerly, and our eyes 
Hngered upon shore hne and hill summit as supposed 
sites of Magdala, Bethsaida, Chorazin and "the 
other side" to which our Lord passed and repassed 
were pointed out to us. As the plain of Gennesaret 
sloped in gentle undulation from the water's edge 
the sower could be fondly visuahzed sowing his seed 
before the eyes of those Hstening to the Master 
teaching from the boat as He used the seed scattered 
upon the various kinds of ground in the parable. 
Somewhere over there beyond the inlet of the Jordan 
Christ fed the multitude in the place "where there 
was much grass." Then in the desolate bluff-hke 
hills across the lake there was all the dismal setting 
for the demoniac and the distrustful Gadarenes. 
Were it not for these absorbing associations with the 
King of Kings, the city of Tiberias would invite more 
attention to its own antiquities. The ruin of the 
old citadel still stands on a coign of guardianship 
just over the city and repaid the chmbing around it, 
though it is always more or less of an aggravation to 
visit such deserted walls and to have a sense of their 
silence quickened by the very curiosity to know what 
thriUing tales they would be likely to tell if they 

[78] 




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a 2 

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Q.P 3 

2,00 



lip 
III 



SEA OF GALILEE— CAPERNAUM 

could only speak. Though at first few Jews could 
be persuaded to live in Tiberias when it was founded 
by Herod Antipas, after the destruction of Jerusalem 
it became a sort of second capital for their race with 
its Sanhedrim or Council transferred there and 
schools and Hterature, including the Talmud, Mishna 
and Massorah, flourishing there for several centuries. 
Now the Jews, many of them immigrants from 
Poland, constitute about two-thirds of the population 
and are much in evidence with| their characteristic 
black hats, fur caps and side locks of hair. They 
regard Tiberias as one of the four holy places, and the 
Talmud is much studied there. A somewhat noisy 
street wedding procession of the people passed the 
hotel one of the evenings we were there. To San 
Franciscans it is a matter of sympathetic interest 
that Tiberias suffered very seriously from an earth- 
quake in 1837. About a mile to the south of Ti- 
berias on the shore are the warm baths celebrated 
from a remote antiquity. The Httle hotel, among 
other souvenirs, has on exhibition dried fish to 
show the same kind now as in the Lord's time, and 
the fishing processes are said to be much the same. 
At the hotel table we found as residents an artist from 
Connecticut and the Turkish officer in command of 
that section, besides a large party of Enghsh tourists 
conducted by a member of Parliament, and several 
Roman priests from America evidently enjoying 
themselves incog, and in khaki. Far off as it is in 
longitude and its real period of history-making, 
Tiberias sees a good deal of the modern strenuous 
globe-trotting life after all, and "a penny for your 
thoughts" is an offer one is sometimes tempted to 
make to a native who looks on at the hurly-burly of 
the comings and goings. But the thoughts which 
come to the saunterer as he sits while the evening 
shadows are thickening on the lake and the hills aie 

[79] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

deepening the purple of their regal associations with 
the Great King into the darkness which discloses the 
infinities of the star depths, it would be difficult to 
appraise or define. There is, however, something of 
an unmistakable soothing and calm about it all as if 
the spirit were still hstening to the blessed message 
over the storm tossed waters, "Peace, be still." 
And one comes out of it^with newyncentive for faith 
with which by the Master's help to pass the ever 
present "waves of this troublesome world." 



80 



J 



MOUNT OF BEATITUDES • NAZA- 
RETH • ESDRAELON • CARMEL 

"jTTrio TELL of Thy loving-kindness early in the 

■ morning " was an instinctive note of thanks- 
I giving for the privilege of passing through 

■ those sacred hills and for the exhilaration of 
air and outlook as we began the day with the start 
from Tiberias for Nazareth. The summit of the 
roadway just back of Tiberias affords a view of the 
Sea of Galilee, embosomed in the hill country, which 
is like a psalm set to music in itself. The just idea 
of the effects of the ghnting waters and rounded sky- 
Hne and Springtime verdure as the setting for the 
reveries upon the mighty peophng of the past, defies 
the pen, it makes demand for its expression as of old 
"Upon an instrument of ten strings and upon the 
lute: upon a loud instrument and upon the harp." 

And as if to continue the musings over things 
beyond speech, one of the first points of interest on 
the drive is the supposed "Mount of Beatitudes," 
a gently descending slope then covered with wild- 
flowers, the attractive carpeting of which turned our 
eyes as the Blessed Preacher of the Sermon on the 
Mount had turned those of His hearers, to "Con- 
sider the Hhes of the field." And then curiously 
enough in the immediate vicinity was a colony of 
Jews, brought there by philanthropic enterprise, 
from the less advantageous conditions of a country 
where they were strangers, to enable them to till again 
the land of their ancient people. What could be a 
more striking object lesson of the very providence 
taught by God's care for the lilies and the fowls of the 
air! And who knows but that it may be some stage 

[811 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

of an answer to the prayer that their Heavenly Father 
will "fetch them home" otherwise to His Son. 

Then on the drive we met a company of hundreds 
of Russian pilgrims trudging on their way to Jerusa- 
lem, most of them as well on in their pilgrimage of 
life as they were on their journey to their goal. And 
on their honest peasant faces there seeemed to be a 
Ught of happy expectation that was a parable in it- 
self of life's true peace amid all its dust and weariness 
of the way, in knowing that 

"Faith's journey; ends in welcome to the weary, 
And heaven, the heart's true home, will come at last." 

One is rather glad that it cannot be certain that 
the traditional Gana of Gahlee is the real place. 
There is nothing in the Cans, through which our 
drive took us to appeal to devout sensibihties of the 
two home-life miracles worked there, or of the fra- 
grgmce and heydey of the reference to it in our Mar- 
riage Service. Hichens says of it: "The village is 
small, dusty, stony and crowded with children and 

flies A clamor for money pursued us 

down the hiUside." And the rival Latin and Greek 
estabhshments feel it necessary to even up each other 
by showing rived waterpots from which the water 
was made wine! 

Nazareth, however, is soon reached and as the 
roadway winds around down into the town there is a 
good genered view of it. The place possesses only 
one spring and that fact affords reasonable assurance 
that "Mary's well" is a true identification and that 
just there were once seen those of the home of 
Nazareth fetching water as now the Spring is fre- 
quented by the motley and picturesque groups. 
One of the dehghtful legends about "Sunny side" 
from Washington Irving, whose home it was, is that 
its spring was brought from Holland 1 That, how- 
ever, would appear to be the only instance of a 

[82] 




5 — ffl g a> « gi— » 
S srEo 3 2 K 



MOUNT OF BEATITUDES— NAZARETH 

portable spring and so statistics are all against there 
ever having been any other spring in any other place 
in Nazareth, and this slight excursus here into the 
field of higher criticism seems to make that one spot 
shown the tom'ists a true postulate. But as to nearly 
all the other labels of sites and scenes, much as one 
might wish they were authentic, he cannot but have 
grave questionings as to whether the wishes of some 
centuries of tourists and theorists, who have been 
before him, are not father to the thought. However 
there is an interest just because so many have looked 
upon them, and even mistaken antiquity after a 
while gathers a human interest about it from the very 
multitudes who want to see it anyway, and beaten 
paths around fancied rehcs have a lure just because 
they are beaten. Successive generations of travelers 
are Hke the individual who tells the story so often that 
he finally beheves it himself I And so we would not 
have missed, all said and done, the seeing what is 
claimed as Joseph's House, Workshop and all the 
rest. There was plenty that was old enough, and 
then the guardians enjoyed showing them. Toward 
evening we chmbed one of the high hills through 
streets that no hyperbole could call either straight 
or broad and had a twilight view of some of the 
everlasting hills including Tabor, Little Hermon and 
Gilboa. Near the summit of the hill was an orphan- 
age of the Church of England, whose good matron 
gave us some idea of its need and satisfactory work- 
ing and "received us courteously," it being an 
especial pleasure to hear our own tongue and be in a 
Church atmosphere where there was such an abun- 
dance of everything else. 

The proverbial Syrian sunshine flooded the hill- 
tops with its early morning rays to give us far 
reaching views just where we especially valued them 
in going from Nazareth to Haifa on the sea coast. 

[83] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

For there opening out before us were heights and 
valleys made memorable by great events and turning 
points in both Old and New Testament history, such 
as at Endor with its witch, Harosheth Sisera's home 
and Nain where the widow's son was raised, as well 
as nearer views of Tabor and Hermon, Gilboa and 
Garmel. A mihtary man would find the Old Testa- 
ment in many of its parts a veritable book of Strategy 
of Armies covering these parts. Crusaders times 
also have this same interest. Descending, the drive 
carried us across the historic plain of Esdraelon. 
Marks of extended cultivation here and there as if 
the overlook were over a great California Valley 
Ranch suggest what could be done in the way of 
developing again the acres of Palestine, if only the 
more settled conditions of government and of agri- 
cultural tenure were accomplished. A wealthy Greek 
of Beirut has bought up a greater part of the plain 
and is reported to find it a profitable investment. 
As to a reahzing sense of the Plain of Esdraelon it- 
self, sometimes called Jezreel and sometimes Megid- 
do, I owed much — and the same might be said once 
for all of many points in the Holy Land, — to Dr. 
George Adam Smith already referred to, and every 
visitor thereabouts should first with his map in hand 
read his XIX Chapter of Book II. (The Historical 
Geography of the Holy Land, pp. 379-410). Pointing 
out the five great natural gateways to sea and to 
desert, making Esdraelon "a vast theatre with its 
clearly-defined stage, with its proper exits and 
entrances," he asks "Was ever arena so simple, so 
regulated for the spectacle of war?" And he traces 
" in outHne" the arrival of those armies whose almost 
ceaseless contests have rendered this plain the 
classic battle-ground," from the victory of Deborah 
and Barak to the retreat of Napoleon through it in 
1799. We rested our horses by the "brook Kishon" 

[84] 



MOUNT OF BEATITUDES— NAZARETH 

and I picked some pebbles from the brook bed to 
preserve in my collection. The modern railroad 
bridge which spans it near where we stopped suggests 
more of the "iron horse" than of the menacing horses 
and chariots of Sisera, but Deborah's thrilhng words 
recall the part the brook played in overcoming the 
odds between the footmen of Israel and the chariot- 
steeds of Sisera. And we remember the character- 
istic weakness of Israel fearing such odds, to rely 
upon horsemen and chariots more than upon "the 
Uving God." 

"The river of Kishon swept them away, that ancient river, 

the river Kishon . . 
There were the horsehoofs broken by the means of the plung- 

ings, the plimgings of their mighty ones." 

Strangely enough as we sat there by the quiet Uttle 
stream a swarthy Bedouin came up with his long 
gun, and this might have scheduled an opportunity 
for an adventure, but it was only to come close to 
this child of the desert whose kind I had only before 
seen at a distance near the black tents, and to have 
an interesting conversation with him with our Drago- 
man as interpreter, in which it transpired that he 
wanted to sell me a horse, — could it be one of Sisera's 
redivivus? Certainly the spell of the old fierce charge 
was about the stream and it was not difficult to im- 
agine it angry and swollen betimes. An inquisitive 
young person once asked of brooks in general why if 
they are disposed to be so joyous in action they should 
be continually murmuring? Kishon has a right to 
murmur even when not swollen with anger. 

But now actually towering above us was Garmel 
and they beauty of Garmel" had been before our eyes 
during nearly the whole drive which had at length 
brought us to its foot. Boldly it stands out, about 
twenty miles long between the plains of Sharon and 
Esdraelon, varying from six hundred to over one- 

[85] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

thousand seven hundred feet in height above the 
sea, covered with "excellency" of wood, shrubbery 
and every wildflower of the region, and kept green 
perennially by the heavy dews. On its heights away 
from the water a few rehgious buildings are plainly 
visible and there are many caves where hermits 
Kved. It affords a worthy setting for the dramatic 
scenes associated with Elijah and Elisha and the 
exploitation of it by the Garmehte Friars leads many 
tourists to thread its roads and spend days upon 
its elevations. The ordinary visit to it is by carriage 
drive up the steep grade from Haifa, which is a memo- 
rable experience in itself, affording as it does in clear 
weather the extended view of the Mediterranean 
shore from the lighthouse of ancient Tyre on the 
north to Gsesarea on the south, and including Acre. 
The Monastery and other buildings are worth in- 
spection, the Order of the Garmehtes dating from the 
end of the twelfth century. At the time of Na- 
poleon's invasion the monastery was used as a 
hospital and there is near it a monument to French 
Soldiers. There is too a Mohammedan cemetery, 
they having also occupied the mountain. There are 
besides places shown as having been associated with 
EHjah, such as a grotto below the high altar in the 
Ghurch, the spot being held sacred by MusHms also. 
Haifa on the bay of Acre, to which we returned to 
take the steamer to Jaffa, is a thrifty looking town 
of about fifteen thousand people, presenting a good 
deal of the enterprise of German colonists who first 
came in 1869. The names of Tancred and Saladin 
are associated with it during the period of the Gru- 
sades, and it was the Sycaminum of Greek and Latin 
writers. As we looked up at Garmel from Haifa on 
the shore, we could easily understand the feUcity of 
the suggestion of the name Garmel to our Junipero 
Serra and the brothers, in the resemblance on a 

[86] 



MOUNT OF BEATITUDES— NAZARETH 

smaller scale of the outlines of our California Garmel 
Bay and mountain to that conformation of the Coast. 
Both ridges jut out promontory-Hke into the water 
and both shelter bays curving gracefully around in- 
ward from their points as if guardians, and shapers 
of salubrious air and wave currents, for happy homes, 
the one for Haifa-by-the-Sea and the other for Car- 
mel-by-the-Sea. But true religious mission was the 
original motif of man in making both historical. 



871 



UP TO JERUSALEM 

IT IS said that a clever motor-boat owner once 
named his racer "Hardegg" to fix the fact that 
it never could "be beaten." It is not to claim 
that there is the same significance hotel-wise to 
note the somewhat unusual name "Hardegg" of the 
landlord of the hotel where we stopped at Jaffa. And 
evidently a name appealed to the proprietor as worth 
making an omen (nomen, omen) for our crowded 
hostelry was the "Jerusalem Hotel" with its rooms 
named after Scriptural characters and we were with 
clerkly promptitude "shown up to Reuben." 

Leaving Jaffa or Joppa for further comment in 
teUing of our return there to embark after we were 
storm staid, it need only be mentioned here that not 
many hours after landing from the steamer that 
brought us from Haffa we took the train for Jerusa- 
lem. Fortunately our Dragoman had secured for 
our party comfortable "reservations" with our lug- 
gage carefully rescued from the mass and placed we 
exceptionally knew where. That enabled us calmly 
to contemplate the polyglot struggle and expressions 
of the heated pilgrims around us over exigent 
questions of seats and stacks of belongings. In the 
luggage-room the agitated railroad officials were 
using the great heap of nondescript articles as a sort 
of barricade to keep off the surging passengers, and 
one of them not only was true to our soubriquet 
"baggage-smasher" but in pugihstic fashion toppled 
over one invader who with decided GalUc intensity 
had tried to storm the barricade in order to enforce 
his wish to come to his own. 

We were, however, soon on our way reflecting 
that after all we must expect highly congested travel 

[881 




m ) 



JaflFa Gate, Jerusalem 

A busy and motley thoroughfare, nesur which was our hotel. The gateway 

was widened and part of the walJ removed at the tinae of the visit of the 

German Emperor a few years siaoe. 



UP TO JERUSALEM 

at this time of the pilgrims and tourists flocking to 
Jerusalem for Easter and we were really and sub- 
sidingly all aboard. The three hours and a half on 
the journey of fifty-four miles to the Holy City had 
more than enough to occupy them both with obser- 
vation of the motley fellow passengers within the train 
and the historic hills and valleys and stations in car 
window ghmpses without. It quickens the zest for 
the soon coming opportunity of a hfetime to say " Our 
feet shall stand in thy gates, Jerusalem," to try to 
keep eyes both on printed page with its running 
description of place after place of antiquity and on 
the surroundings for which the hurrying train only 
allows time for instant identification, such as Lydda, 
Ramleh, the so-called Sampson's Cavern, etc. The 
railway station at Jerusalem is about three-quarters 
of a mile from the Jaffa Gate, the carriage ride 
crossing the Valley of Hinnom and we were soon at 
our hotel — the Grand New Hotel — ^just inside where 
the Jaffa gateway stood of old, for the former narrow 
gateway was much widened for the visit of the Em- 
peror of Germany a few years since. 

And now that we were in Jerusalem, and were 
not dreaming it, the Saunterer finds himself at this 
stage of his narrative obhged to come to some sort of 
definite agreement with himself as to just what bent 
he will follow in telHng of the experiences there. For 
such an experience is apt to awaken in an enthus- 
iastic traveler several kinds of interest. His Bible 
of course becomes a book of bewildering suggestions 
of study on the spot. His historical studies, his dip- 
ping into archaeology here and there, his devotional 
instincts, his sense of absorption in the novel phases 
of Oriental Hfe and of the microcosm of mingled races 
more than ever in evidence at Eastertide, all these 
feel the stimulus of the time and place, and could 
enter truly into the telling. Not hke as a dream when 

[89J 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

one awaketh but rather the reverse, Uke as a wide- 
awakefulness that is as when one dreameth, seems to 
describe it. It comes to this, then, that there is 
really no other practical way to treat it in a story 
hke this than to keep to the thread of it as each day's 
sight-seeing furnished it, without trying to analyze 
or to moraHze. No two goings up to Jerusalem are 
just alike and it is only as a saunterer not as a scholar 
that the attempt will be made to tell something of 
what we saw and did. As the itinerary was all 
arranged for us by experts, representing much ac- 
quaintance with economies of distance and time, we 
at least wasted none of our opportunities. 

We were first taken to the temple precincts by our 
Dragoman, accompanied by the Turkish poUceman, 
who is a necessary adjunct as a sort of credential 
among the Mohanmiedan faithful and mosque habi- 
tues. And then of course we were prepared to find 
as one must be throughout Jerusalem "vain imagin- 
ations," Mohammedan and Christian, interspersed 
with authoritative facts. One need not be guUible, 
even if he does now and then believe that the credible 
investigators have made some identifications practi- 
cally infalhble for reverent and zestful sight-seeing. 
And it seems worth while to quote here one of the 
most recent and most competent utterances upon 
the whole matter from one who had given twenty- 
seven years to the study of the evidence. He says, 
"As to the topography itself, one cannot give an 
adequate idea of it without the details of the con- 
troversies — topical, textual and historical — which 
have been more numerous and more keenly debated 
in the case of Jerusalem than in that of any other 
site in the world. Recently, however, the main 
issues have been cleared of much irrelevant reasoning, 
and there is a remarkable tendency towards agree- 
ment upon many of the conclusions." The Book 

[90] 



UP TO JERUSALEM 

from which this is quoted (''Jerusalem From the 
Earliest Times to A. D.70," 2 Vols., 8vo., by Dr. 
George Adam Smith, Hodder and Stoughton, Lon- 
don,) is well known as a modern masterpiece for 
the Jerusalem cult. Every thoughtful tourist there 
should read it. And it furnishes for the Sunday 
School curriculum and lecture courses most attractive 
material for popular instruction. The illustrations 
and maps in the volumes supplemented with such 
lantern sUdes as are furnished by Vester & Co. (who 
send full catalogues) at Jerusalem enable congrega- 
tions to see almost with the eyes of travelers. Not 
a httle encouragement too can be found by every 
faithful Sunday School teacher, whose tasks some- 
times seem small and unproductive, to read from Dr. 
Smith's preface an acknowledgment of one of his 
greatest debts: "My introduction to the history 
of Jerusalem and my earhest interest in it were due 
to the guidance of the dear kinswoman, my first 
teacher, to whose memory I have dedicated this 
work." (Vol. L, p. XV.) "If Monica had not 
prayed Augustine would not have preached," and 
we might say that if the "dear kinswoman" had not 
taught, this invaluable work would not have been 
written. 

Now the temple area we visited is an irregularly 
shaped space with its south side nine hundred and 
twenty feet, north side ten hundred and thirty-five 
feet, east side fifteen hundred and forty feet, and 
west side sixteen hundred and five feet, or roughly 
speaking nearly fourteen times as large as the Grace 
Church Cathedral Block in San Francisco. This is 
known as the Haram esh-Sherif and the central 
feature of it is the Holy Rock or es-Sakhra. And 
this rock and the temple area as well as the general 
site of Jerusalem are among the things Adam Smith 
rates as well accepted for what they are claimed to be. 

[91] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

The present barracks too on the northwest angle of 
the temple area are on the site of the Castle Antonia 
from the steps of which St. Paul made his defense to 
the mob. However much the debris from the shocks 
of earthquakes and of human violence in thirty-three 
centuries of history has deeply bin-ied under old 
streets and sites, even a few of such certainties 
redeem all the "long careless chatter about the holy 
sites which has confused or obliterated the genuine 
memories of the past." The rock is fifty-eight feet 
long and forty-four feet wide and rises from four to 
six feet above the surrounding pavement. It is 
scarred and rounded as if the generations of men who 
have sacrificed there as did Solomon, had worn it 
like the abrasion of a great human glacier. It is 
enclosed within an ornamented wooden barrier and 
one has to mount steps to get a good view of it. Over 
it is built the highly decorated mosque known as the 
Dome of the Rock and under it is a hollow with its 
multitude of legends and superstitions to which the 
visitor can descend. Fanatical Mohammedans are 
sometimes found in the cavern and not many years 
since one of them attacked a tourist who had in some 
way offended his religious sensibihties. And about 
the time of our visit to Jerusalem there was con- 
siderable stir over a rumor that some foreign excava- 
tors had secured valuable sacrosanct loot from under 
the rock. 

The usual round to other objects of interest of the 
Temple area took us to the httle "Dome of the 
Chain," with its traditions of a chain stretched 
across the entrance whose Hnks fell out at the touch 
of a Har — a suggestion for a coat of arms for an 
"Ananias Club" — ^the Dome of Mohammed's Ascen- 
sion, the Aksa Mosque supposed to occupy the site 
where originally a Christian basihca was built by 
Justinian, the sub-structure including "Solomon's 

[92] 



UP TO JERUSALEM 

Stables" where are shown holes cut in the angles of 
the stone piers for the tethering of Crusaders' horses. 
There are also scattered over the area, pulpits and 
prayer places and pools for ablutions, with trees here 
and there. It all is hkely to cause a jumble of 
impressions over temple and mosque associations 
and it is not pleasant to look up and see not the cross 
but the crescent aloft against the sky. But with 
all the serried hosts of humanity that the imagina- 
tion conjures up around that central spot of the ages 
in their past generations, some lasting reflections 
upon contemporary life are thrust upon the visitor. 
The Mohammedan priest who took us around the 
Dome of the Rock had a sunny sense of humor even 
when collecting bakshish over the nails Mohammed 
drove in the slab of jasper that covered Solomon's 
tomb, the gradual removal of which by the aforesaid 
hakshish is to precipitate the end of the world I And 
the swarm of beggars everywhere drew from our 
Dragoman the Arabic saying to the effect that "The 
head (industry) will hve, the tail (beggary) will Uve, 
but the middle (honest poverty) will die." 



93] 



BETHLEHEM • JERICHO • THE 
DEAD SEA • THE JORDAN 

TANGRED, with a band of Crusaders in 1099 
made an especial circuit when on his way to 
take part in the Capture of Jerusalem, in 
order that he might set the standard of the 
cross on the walls of Bethlehem to signahze the birth 
of the Crusaders' Kingdom in the birthplace of the 
King of Kings. History soon showed the pathos of 
such a sentiment in the humihating downfall before 
Saladin in 1187 of the century old Christian Kingdom 
of Jerusalem which in its harassed existence had 
already evoked from the pity of Christendom the 
by-word "Christ's second crown of thorns." And 
a modern visit to Bethlehem associates with it that 
same pathos of failure in the Crusader's dream, and 
quickens the sensitiveness to the fallacy of even 
trying to repeat the mistake of those jQrst followers of 
Christ who would make Him fill the throne of an 
earthly ruler rather than that of a spiritual King. 
But it does more. It poignantly impresses the 
thought and imagination with the divisions in His 
spiritual kingdom which have worked such havoc in 
its power and progress. Around the recess in the 
grotto shown as the Chapel of the Nativity where the 
exact spot is supposed to be marked by the inscrip- 
tion, ''Hie de Virgine Maria Jesus Christus natus 
est'^ there are fifteen lamps burning, but six of them 
are scrupulously assigned to the Greek Christians, 
five to the Armenian Christians and four to the Latin 
Christians and questions of mine or thine have at 
times so agitated the respective "religious" of those 
various adherents that scuffling and hand to hand 

[94] 



BETHLEHEM— JERICHO— THE DEAD SEA 

belaboring with any weapon ready have excited the 
"scornful wonder" of the Mohammedan Turk and 
given him occasion to keep soldiers on guard there. 
The Mussulman pohcing the birthplace of the Prince 
of Peace to keep His followers from flying at each 
other makes a pitiful spectacle of the strife on earth 
where the message of Peace on Earth was first 
pubhshed, and lamps hghting the cavernous recesses 
become feud irritants under the same skies which 
once blazed with the glory of the heavenly host as 
the Light of the world was revealed to the shepherds 
watching in the fields still pointed out adjoining 
Bethlehem! It was a positive rehef to have such 
trains of thought arrested by a touching picture upon 
which we came as we reached the spot. There is a 
large silver star let into the pavement just by the 
inscription and a httle Russian boy was kneeling to 
kiss it as his father looked on with that settled ex- 
pression of peace and joy that is noticeable in the 
rugged faces of so many of the Russian pilgrims. As 
the father anointed the boy's forehead the simple 
faith of it all and the indelible impression it must 
have made on the httle one himself were welcome 
suggestions of larger reahzations of the Prince of 
Peace to dissipate the immediate hauntings of a 
Christendom, ' ' by schisms rent asunder. ' ' But when 
one considers the close contacts of the three bodies 
of Christians and the almost less than chalk-hne 
boundaries to deprive them even of that security when 
"good fences make good neighbors," perhaps the 
wonder is there is not more of the unseemly clashing. 
As it is, the intonings of their various rites some- 
times mingle in the ears of the visitors with many 
really harmonious notes of worship and behef, and 
it is something to see as one approaches Bethlehem 
what is so unique in that Moslem land, as one trav- 
eler has pointed out, that above the Church of the 

[95] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

Nativity which is the joint property of Greeks, 
Latins and Armenians, stands out against the sky- 
Kne, a Church tower and not a minaret I This 
Church itself with its antecedents associated with 
Gonstantine and Justinian has an interesting if 
troubled history and is noticeable for a very small 
entrance door which owes its restricted opening to 
a fear well grounded in the past of violent invasion. 
Some inscriptions of resolutions of the Council of 
Constantinople concerning the Godhead of the Holy 
Ghost and of resolutions of other Councils appealed 
to the saunterer as having an especial interest in the 
interior. In the association of Bethlehem with St. 
Jerome, that refugee from city distraction, and his 
translation of the Bible into Latin and other works, 
both a chapel and tomb hewn out of the rock under 
the Church are now, with what authority we cannot 
stop to enquire, identified with him. Bethlehem has 
among its inhabitants a good deal of business in 
making ornaments and curios of mother-of-pearl, 
wood, coral, etc., and the shopkeepers just off the 
plaza in front of the Church of the Nativity — ^many 
of whom have been at foreign expositions with their 
wares — ^in their rivalries and persistence for cus- 
tomers could make any body of energetic cabmen 
around the exit of an American railroad station 
green with envy. 

The road to Jerusalem, the distance being some 
five miles and a half, has its reminders of Old Testa- 
ment history in the so-caUed Tomb of Rachel, and 
Ruth and David must have seen the principal hill 
outhnes very much as they are now. 

Quite different from the trip to Bethlehem was 
that to Jericho. Few American tourists can resist 
the expression, however antiquated, "Jordan is 
indeed a hard road to travel." "A more hot and 
heavy way it is impossible to conceive — between 

[961 



BETHLEHEM— JERICHO— THE DEAD SEA 

bKstered limestone rocks, and in front the bare hills 
piled high without shadow or verdure," so one 
writer describes it. As it leads down to the Dead 
Sea it might be well called the Killing road for 
man and beast. The descent from Jerusalem over 
twenty-five hundred feet above the level of the 
Mediterranean Sea is to the level of the Dead Sea it- 
self nearly thirteen hundred feet below the level of 
the Mediterranean. And we were at Jericho at a 
time to appreciate its intense heat. But withal the 
journey was one full of absorbing sightseeing and 
the only "bitter taste it left in the mouth" was that 
of a very cautious sip of Dead Sea water, "to see what 
it was like," and that left no manner of doubt that 
it holds in solution some five times as much soUds as 
ocean water, and that the solid bitterness of the 
solution has a lasting power capable of developing 
a gustative antiquity all of its own. 

Some hummocks which mark the site of old 
Jericho have been investigated by German exca- 
vators, but Kttle of interest has been thus far found, 
and Elisha's Fountain, near the mounds, is one of the 
first places visited. It is difiicult in the present 
"swimming bath" appearance of the waters from 
the spring to visualize EHsha casting the salt from 
the new cruse to "heal the waters," but the irrigation 
from this spring has much to do with the tropical 
flora of the neighborhood which includes among 
other things the spina Christi of the crown of thorns. 
The present village of some three hundred inhabi- 
tants is not attractive though the hotels are fair. 
Ours was well beflagged, but I felt bound to ask the 
proprietor to revise the position of the stars and 
stripes in order to redeem our home country from 
appearing to hold out a signal of distress, the star- 
spangled banner unfortunately floating upside down, 
and suggesting that surely enough as a nation we 

[97] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

had "Gone to Jericho!" But the very fact of the 
flag told upon the tourist. 

The afternoon drive from Jericho to the Dead 
Sea and then to the Jordan, covering in all some 
fifteen miles, was rendered less uncomfortable from 
the heat by an overcast sky and a breeze, and we 
were gathering impressions for a lifetime of Gilgal and 
Mount Nebo, the so-called Mount of Temptation 
looming up with its sky-hne of walls, the monastery 
occupying the alleged site of John Baptist's habita- 
tion, the Mountains of Moab in the distance and 
other points, all associated with the "Wilderness of 
Judea." There is a spell of desolateness about it 
all, and as has been well said, "You begin to under- 
stand the influence of the desert on Jewish imagi- 
nation and literature. It gave the ancient nations 
of Judea, as it gives the mere visitor of today, the 
sense of living next door to doom." A grateful inter- 
lude in the drive is to stand "On Jordan's bank" 
when the waters toss themselves merrily along under 
the trees with a swift current. This stopping point 
is called the place of the baptism of Christ and is much 
frequented by pilgrims. We dipped into the run- 
ning stream and took away some of the water to be 
sterilized and prepared at Jerusalem, as is done for 
transportation home in small, especially decorated, 
canteens for use at baptisms. Our return journey 
up to Jerusalem began with a very early morning 
start to avoid the heat, and included considerable 
walking up the steeper places to "reheve the team." 
That afforded us the more deliberate opportunity to 
look back upon the Dead Sea and the plain and to 
note ruins of castles and aqueducts by the roadside. 
Then across the dizzy depth of a great ravine, sup- 
posed to be the Valley of Achor, cHnging hchen-like 
to the rugged face of a cHff, is the Greek Monastery 
of St. George, a sort of penitentiary for priests, a very 

[98] 







sd 



'«|:ii?ifiiriiii 



BETHLEHEM— JERICHO— THE DEAD SEA 

achievement of ingenuity in solitary confinement. 
We tarried awhile at the only well for miles, known 
as the "Apostles' Spring" from the tradition that the 
Apostles drank of its waters on their journeys through 
these parts. But the half-way house, where horses 
and their carriage loads stop to rest, furnishes an 
hour of "entertainment for man and beast" all of 
its own. "Mine host" is a thrifty Hebrew who 
improves each shining hour with importunities to buy 
from his stock of antiques and curios and picture 
postals, and enHvens his motley guests with such 
badinage as offering to sell "salt from Lot's wifel" 
This Khan is in a region quite deserted, and the 
parable of "The Good Samaritan" becomes the more 
graphic from such a setting. It is, as we may say 
in California, "an ideal place for hold-ups," and be- 
fore the time of Christ had been so infested with 
robbers that Roman soldiers had to patrol it to pro- 
tect the travelers. 

Nearing Jerusalem we stopped at Bethany, and 
there with the satisfaction of the general site visited 
the not so satisfactory placings of the tomb of 
Lazarus and sites of the Homes of Martha and Mary 
and of Simon the Leper. Then back to our hotel, 
and Bethlehem, Jericho, the Dead Sea, the Jordan, 
the Wilderness and Bethany had, by these journey- 
ings, become vivid reaHties — geographical, historical 
and Scriptural — as they never had been before. 



99 



GOOD FRIDAY AND EASTER 
DAY IN JERUSALEM 

GOOD Friday, Easter Even and Easter Day 
in Jerusalem — how the simple memorandiun 
stirs the imagination! And breathes there 
a Christian man with "soul so dead" who 
does not find the experience one which must leave 
much to the imagination of the reader as he tries 
to tell of it. Tourists may come away with varied 
impressions of the modern Jerusalem, may express 
disappointment and even disillusionizing of their 
expectations, may not have been prepared to find 
the city and even Palestine itself so comparatively 
small in boundaries, may have been wearied and even 
pestered with bogus identifications and may have 
been in a state of protest against Mohammedan 
occupation and all the beggary and municipal back- 
wardness generally, as so many visitors affirm. 
The saunterer was, he may say, not affected in that 
way, and he beheves those who will take the pains to 
learn beforehand from the abounding Hterature on 
the subject, just what to expect, can avoid such 
an unwelcome "jolt." Though it be by name a 
"City of Peace," historically every one knows it has 
been anything but that, and Isaiah, in Dr. George 
Adam Smith's translation (XXII: 1) apostrophizes 
it, "0 full of uproar. City tumultuous. Boisterous 
town," and Zephaniah (11:15) uses that same graphic 
term "boisterous" which exactly describes what one 
finds there today in its josthng street crowds. If 
then every one who contemplated the pilgrimage to 
the "Holy City" made up Ms mind beforehand that 
there was in store for him just that kind of a Jerusa- 

[100] 




Greek Patriarch of Jerusalem 

His Beatitude, Lord Damianos, was most thoughtful and courteous and 

gave us access to the library of the Monastery and to the Precincts of the 

Holy Sepulchre. He gave several interesting souvenirs to the members of 

the party, including this photograph and cards conveying his blessing 

and containing pressed (lowers from Jerusalem. 



EASTER DAY IN JERUSALEM 

lem, "her throng, her tumult, and the boisterous 
m her" of which Isaiah speaks in another place (V:14) 
we should perhaps hear less of the sense of disappoint- 
ment of the visitor than we do. 

But the day of the crucifixion, of the entombment 
and of the resurrection became so instinct with the 
Jerusalem of the past that there was the turning away 
from the present environment toward the city that 
was, with something of that longing and heart- 
searching with which we envision the Jerusadem that 
is to be "that eager hearts expect." Then the be- 
ing on the spot becomes baffling to describe. Then 
de profundis, Psalms and Misereres and the Agnus 
Dei in personal reahzations, open up new vistas of 
that Jerusalem over which the Blessed Redeemer of 
Mankind found the intensities of His own expression 
when He "wept over it." And the teardrop of 
Jesus was a concentrate of the meaning of Jerusalem. 
And well may eyes moisten as they "mark well her 
bulwarks" and the sense of sin and infirmity sinks 
deeply within, and within and without there is a 
new revelation of the meaning of "He was bruised 
for our iniquities." Jerusalem can never seem small 
nor disappointing after that. It almost seems as if 
a pilgrim badge had been gained as of a priceless 
"Jerusalem Gross" jeweled with the teardrops of 
Christ, to be worn thereafter indehble, if invisible, 
upon the heart. 

Good Friday began with the blessed privileges at 
St. George's Collegiate Church, for which our own 
Conamunion as well as that of the Church of England 
has reason to be most grateful to Bishop Blyth and 
his staff, who make it a welcome Church home to 
visitors. Then after some interval for quiet, we 
joined the great motley procession led by Franciscan 
Fathers to the successive modern "Stations of the 
Cross" marked in the Via Dolorosa tablets, with an 

[101] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

office said at each, and all with reverent and deeply 
impressive eiBfect. While streams of Christians were 
wending their way towards the starting point for 
the Stations on the site of the Castle of Antonia, in 
jarring contrast bands of Mohammedans, with mar- 
tial music and fluttering standards, were gathering 
for their great procession to the reputed Tomb of 
Moses. And passing our hotel was a band of their 
reUgionists — ^principally of young men who seemed 
to be enacting as they went some kind of saltatory 
ceremonial suggestive of a firing up of Mohammedan 
zeal and defiance, accompanied by a weird monoto- 
nous refrain. 

The last Station office was said before the Holy 
Sepulchre and then we were fortunate in finding 
access to the Armenian Gallery of the Church of the 
Holy Sepulchre which overlooks the Chapel of the 
Holy Sepulchre and immediate Rotunda. At the 
close of the Station's office. High Roman Ecclesias- 
tics, Monks and Clergy gathered directly in front of 
the Holy Sepulchre and the office of Tenebrae was 
sung by a well-trained and sometimes even thrilling 
choir from a gaUery across from the one in which we 
were. The service affecting and attuned to the pro- 
found theme and scene had one strange, ahnost 
starthng feature. As a sort of rim to the congre- 
gation, a company of Turkish soldiers circled around 
the assembly, and stood there with their guns, in 
grim contrast with the ceremonial. Abhorrent as it 
was to all Christian sensibiHties, yet was there not a 
touch of reahsm about it in having the repugnant 
Mohammedan soldier stohdly standing on guard to 
recall the Calvary cordon of the Roman soldiers who 
mocked on the first Good Friday! 

There could be but one pilgrimage that would 
suggest itself for Easter Even and that was to the 
Holy Sepulchre itself. The courtesy of His Reatitude 

[102] 



EASTER DAY IN JERUSALEM 

Lord Damiarios, Greek Patriarch of Jerusalem, and 
his Secretary, Father Timotheus Pythagoras Theme- 
hs, was of much avail to us in this visit as in other 
special privileges which made our sojourn in Jeru- 
salem so memorable to us. The Guardian of the 
Holy Sepulchre, himself a notable Greek Ecclesiastic, 
received us with especial attention. And Father 
Timotheus, having learned of a request which I 
received from a devout invaHd relative that she might 
have something from Calvary itself, found a small 
piece of the very rock which had become loosened, 
and authoritatively presented it to me. This treas- 
ured souvenir was cut into two pieces and "Jerusalem 
Crosses" were cut in a surface poHshed on each, and 
each was inserted at the foot of an oHve wood cross, 
one to reach the invalid just a few weeks before she 
was called to her rest and the other kept for the 
private Chapel of the Episcopal Residence at home. 
The rest of the day was spent in visiting the so-called 
Gordon's Garden Tomb (about which much contro- 
versy has been centered, though Bishop Blyth felt 
the force of the tradition of the other Calvary), the 
"Tomb of the Kings," our drive conveying us past 
the site of the Camp of Titus, and we stopped at a 
coign of vantage on the hill for a view of Jerusalem 
which, curiously enough, was near the villa of friends 
we met in England in 1897, who then had much inter- 
ested us with their spoken and pubHshed accounts as 
cottage sojourners in the Holy Land, Mr. and Mrs. 
Grayhill of Birkenhead. The place of Christ's weep- 
ing over the City well fitted in with our Easter Even 
mood, and the reputed place of Ascension, Beth- 
phage, and the conspicuous Russian Tower and 
Church rounded out our day's itinerary. 

Though traveling incognito, Canon Yates, whom 
we met at Assouan, had told Bishop Blyth of the 
imposing Collegiate Church of St. George of our 

[103] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

coming and we had our experience of that most 
gracious thought and hospitahty wliich have made 
Bishop Blyth's name a household word with so many 
of our Church visitors to Jerusalem. He asked me 
to take the Celebration at seven o'clock Easter morn- 
ing in the Collegiate Church and with his fine consid- 
eration suggested that I use the American Office. 
Again at the ten o'clock service I preached, and 
during the day we were favored with the hospitahty 
of the Bishop and his daughters in the Episcopal 
residence which forms one part of the Church estab- 
hshment that is a marvel of attractiveness and 
enterprise on the part of the Bishop and his friends. 
Canon Yates had planned for us a visit to Solomon's 
Quarries after the afternoon service, with the Bishop 
of Nagpur and Mrs. Dibblee of our Diocese. But a 
somewhat violent rain storm prevented our going, 
though I otherwise secured from the Quarries a block 
of the stone to be built into our Grace Cathedral in 
San Francisco. Bishop Blyth has shown his regard 
for the American Church by having a stall in the 
Collegiate Church named after one of its Bishops, 
first after Bishop Potter of New York and on his 
death after Bishop Doane of Albany. Would that 
some of our wealthy American tourists would more 
adequately endow the stall and so show recognition 
of the invariable thought for visitors from our country 
that Bishop Blyth has shown. 

There was a visit to the Greek Patriarch with 
the privilege of seeing in his hbrary the original copy 
of the very early Didache or Teaching of the Twelve 
Apostles, found by Byrennius, and the casting the 
eye around the horizon to imagine somewhere among 
the peaks to the north, "Nob Hill" — the place of 
the priests (I. Sam. 22:11) and where the Ark of the 
Covenant was kept for awhile, of wliich the Grace 
Cathedral site in San Francisco is now suggestive, 

[104] 



EASTER DAY IN JERUSALEM 

though the old name of it/' Nob Hill," could hardly 
have this Scriptural origin assigned to it without a 
smile. But these and the "Jews waihng place" 
sights, the tramps about the walls, including stops 
at some questionable identifications, can only be 
noted in passing. 

The experience of it all seemed to be well expressed 
by a fellow tourist from England with whom and his 
family we were very pleasantly associated on some 
of our journeyings. He spoke of the searching of his 
whole life and outlook that in the presence of such a 
review of the Passion of the Lord he had found as 
he communed before the Sepulchre "with his own 
heart and was still" — how it humbled him under the 
mighty hand of God, how it deepened his sense of 
the Gross, how it awoke him to new hope to "follow 
more truly the blessed steps of His most holy life." 
What was that but to make new and undying melody 
in the heart with Easter anthem notes all of its 
blessed own — ^the "Likewise reckon ye also your- 
selves to be dead indeed unto sin: but ahve unto 
God through Jesus Christ our Lord." The language 
of flora was invoked as we pressed a red flower 
plucked from the Garden bloom of Gethsemane be- 
tween the Good Friday pages of a pocket Prayer 
Book. 



105 



JAFFA • THE SEA • SYRACUSE • 
BISERTA • MARSEILLES 

"FTPIhey THAT go down to the sea," after such 
I a storin as visited us at Jerusalem Easter 
I afternoon and night, are apt to find that 
M they must wait at Jaffa before they can be 
"in ships. " And so when, after an early start Easter 
Monday morning on the train, we reached Jaffa, we 
found that exposed and rocky water front in most 
reahstic exhibit of the Psalmist's "stormy wind 
which Hfteth up the waves thereof." And though a 
day's detention in a crowded httle hotel — Hardegg 
again our host at the "Jerusalem Hotel," room 
"Maria" — ^is not in itself especially interesting, still 
as we looked out beyond the rocks pounded by the 
angry waters, at some seven steamers waiting until 
their passengers could be safely taken to them in the 
small boats, we could well reflect that on terra firma 
we were probably in a more composed frame of mind 
than those aboard, to wait and reflect upon the 
Psalmist's graphic touch of the motion of the ship as 
"they reel to and fro and stagger like a drunken man 
and are at their wit's end." Unwarily stroUing along 
the water front and supposing that the off side of the 
street was out of reach of the spray, several of our 
party came near being drenched by huge waves as 
they dashed their waters far over the bulkhead. But 
the fascination of the scene was like that which draws 
San Franciscans to the GHff House after a great 
storm on the ocean. And the next day, though the 
waters had considerably subsided, in the small boats 
which took us and our luggage to our steamer the 
heights and hollows of the waves oftentimes hid from 

[106] 



JAFFA— SYRACUSE— MARSEILLES 

sight of each other boat loads that were less than a 
hundred yards apart, and again of some of the timid 
ones perhaps there was a suggestion that "they are 
carried up to the heaven and down again to the deep ; 
their soul melteth away because of the trouble." 
However, the agile and experienced boatmen, with 
their oar-rhythm singing, are quite assuring, and even 
at that critical moment when with the upward heave 
of a wave they seized the instant and only opportun- 
ity to effect the over heave of the passengers to the 
ship's side, they give a trusty feeUng to their deft 
handling. One boat's load, indeed, containing a 
number of elderly people and one cripple, was threat- 
ened with grave peril of being swamped by being 
caught under the guard of the steps with the upward 
lift of a wave, but an alert boatman quickly saw the 
danger and brought all his strength to bear, just in 
the nick of time pushed the gunwale of the boat out 
from under the guard and was obliged himself to fall 
overboard to do it, though of course at home in the 
water and soon aboard again. The experience was 
all in contrast with our previous debarkation at Jaffa 
when the water was so calm that the boatmen rowed 
us between the jagged reefs just off shore, to which 
now they gave the widest berth possible. I have 
dwelt upon this experience because it shows that the 
repute of this landing place, while it is by no means 
without some justification for "thrills," need not 
deter anyone, for it has no doubt influenced tourists 
to leave this trip out of their itinerary. Some day 
when present conditions of government are super- 
seded or enlightened, a breakwater may make it 
less strenuous; in the meantime the experience safely 
passed is of the sort that ministers to the traveler's 
pride of having something out of the usual happen. 

Our "sight-seeing" at Jaffa was when we were 
tarrying there on our way to Jerusalem, but we have 

[1071 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

reserved more specific reference to it until this 
account of our return from Jerusalem. Jaffa has 
much history and even a mythical period, Andromeda 
in the legend having been chained to rocks here that 
she might be devoured by a huge sea monster, but 
having escaped through the dehverance effected by 
Perseus. In the Bible it is especially associated with 
Jonah and St. Peter and Dorcas. And the ninth and 
tenth chapters of the Book of Acts are read with new 
zest as one visits Jgiffa. This is not so much from any 
certainty as to the points to which the visitor is taken, 
associated by tradition with the Bible narrative, 
though the house shown as on the site of Simon the 
tanner's, with whom St. Peter "tarried many days," 
is certainly very much "by the sea side," near the 
Fanar, or lighthouse. The site of the house of 
Tabitha, or Dorcas, and her rock-tomb and other 
memorabilis of her are held in honor in the Russian 
settlement. But one reahzes that he is in the town 
somewhere in which St. Peter had his vision of the 
world-wide mission of the Church to the Gentiles, as 
revealed to him in "a certain vessel descending as it 
were a great sheet, let down by four corners upon the 
earth," and which led to his reception of GorneHus 
the Gentile centurion, whose messengers from Gses- 
area were waiting at the gate of Simon's house, even 
when the vision on the housetop was vouchsafed St. 
Peter. As this new angle of the world-federation in 
Christ dawned upon one Uke St. Peter, who had all 
the exclusive pride of the Jew, and so revolutionized 
the whole attitude of the man, it was singularly sug- 
gestive that it should take place in a center like Jaffa 
for two reasons. First Jaffa, though having stirring 
chapters of history of strife for possession between Jew 
and Gentile had continued violently Jewish, and was 
itseff to symboHze the "one blood of all nations" in 
Christ Jesus, as both in resident population and 

[108] 



JAFFA— SYRACUSE— MARSEILLES 

thronging tourists it has taken on so much of a cos- 
mopolitan character. And next it so well illustrates 
by its very shore-site the great change that came over 
the mind of Judaism as a whole in its conception of 
the symboHsm of the sea in the world distribution of 
religion. Dr. George Adam Smith has pointed out that 
the general tenor of the Old Testament is that the sea 
is a barrier, a horizon and not a highway. "Ye shall 
have the Great Sea for a border" (Numbers 34:6). 
The Hebrew name for the West is the Sea. At the 
very limit of the Sea then was St. Peter's vision as if 
typically breaking over that, too, for the fuller 
realization and glory of Israel. The very song of the 
Psalmist was to have a new world-interpretation. 
"Thy way is in the sea and Thy paths in the great 
waters and Thy footsteps are not known," as another 
"Hebrew of the Hebrews," St. Paul, a little later was 
to show in his missionary journeys extending over 
those same waters that the sea was no longer to be 
the bar but the bringer to the world of the religion 
of the true Prophet, Priest and King, Christ Jesus, as 
one who HteraUy walked upon the waters. Jaffa by 
the seaside then was most suggestively the spot for 
St. Peter's widened vision for the world. 

Once safely aboard the steamer, "Kosseir," 
originally a Khedive's private yacht, we were soon 
on our way to Port Said, which we reached in the 
early morning. There was something of a rush for 
the railroad station as we had Httle time to make 
connections with the morning train for Alexandria, 
and we passed Doctor, Custom House, and the usual 
questions of age and accounting for our pilgrimage 
in rather a fidget. And with an exhilarating un- 
certainty as to the exact hour of the saiHng of the 
"Prince Heinrich" from Alexandria — having been 
informed of two distinct hours far apart — we were 
not sure whether we would be able to connect with 

[109] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

her until we received an assuring telegram en route. 
We were now in some measure "doubling on our 
tracks," having before passed through the general 
region of the railway journey and having seen some- 
thing of Alexandria as told in the story of former 
"Saunterings." 

The first stopping place of the "Prince Heinrich" 
was Syracuse, where St. Paul spent three days from 
the "ship of Alexandria" on which he was journeying 
toward Rome after his shipwreck. The ruins of the 
Greek and Roman theatres, the Latomiae, or Quar- 
ries, the "Whispering Gallery" grotto known as the 
"Ear of Dionysius," once used as a prison when it 
is said the talk of the prisoners could be easily over- 
heard; the Cathedral on the site of an ancient Temple 
of Minerva, all made one wish he could remember 
more from his college classics, while obHged to have 
a mind somewhat alert for the passing hour in order 
to avoid having the thrifty Syracusans unload un- 
current coins upon him in making change. 

Next we dropped anchor at a new French naval 
station in North Africa, Riserta. Our German ves- 
sel was not admitted to the inner harbor, and that 
and strict precautions against photographing seemed 
to be an evidence of the sensitiveness of the Great 
Nations to any "spying out" of their naval or mih- 
tary stations. We could see grim looking warships 
in the distance and there was enough to show how 
the "Powers" are all watching opportunities to 
estabhsh themselves around the Mediterranean. 
Riserta in Tunis is only about a hundred miles from 
the site of that ancient Hippo of which the great 
Augustine was the Rishop, and one wished that he 
might, when so near, visit the spot. Rut our course 
next lay directly for Marseilles and as the coast of 
North Africa receded from our view we could only 
reflect upon the contrast between the stirring Ufe in 

[110] 



JAFFA— SYRACUSE— MARSEILLES 

all that region in the time of St. Augustine and the 
deadness so far as Christianity is concerned, not to 
say in other things, that is so characteristic of it now. 
Are they not right who find one cause of it in its lack 
of missionary spirit ? 

I have heard of an ecclesiastic on a ship entering 
a harbor when a heavy low fog compelled the captain 
to slowly and cautiously feel his way, who impatiently 
looked to the clear sky above and asked, "Why 
should we poke along in this way? See how clear the 
sky is. The ready skipper at once repHed. "Just 
now we are not going that way. " We had no fog and 
were glad to have leisurely opportunity to scan the 
surroundings, but the last part of finding our dockage 
at Marseilles was with very deHberate headway, and 
expedition of passing the Custom House on the 
wharf was in inverse ratio to the noise and general 
hubbub. In that picturesque harbor of which 
Dumas' pen has been so graphic, of course, one of the 
first objects of interest is the Chateau d'lf of Monte 
Christo, that "gloomy fortress, which has for more 
than three hundred years furnished so many wild 
legends, and that seemed to Dantes Hke a scaffold to 
a malefactor." We had an excellent view of it, and 
leaving our good ship at Marseilles our memorable 
voyagings closed that part of our world-circuit in the 
Mediterranean with our earnest thanksgiving for 
their edification and their safety and a new sense of 
the meaning to the old Scriptural world that "the 
sea is His and He made it." 



Ill 



AVIGNON -PARADOXICAL PARIS 

WHEN OUR saunterings in Europe began we 
reached the point where the traveler's 
paths are not only the most beaten but 
the most written about on this "terres- 
trial globe." "Quill-drivers" cover that part of the 
world almost as thickly as "globe-trotters." Every 
one writes letters home, now often epitomized in the 
handy picture-postal; every one gets that touch of 
travel lure which makes the whole hterature akin, 
and not infrequently the guide book helps out the 
pen as much as it does the path. And every one 
who puts to paper his own impressions of European 
journeyings must eschew any thought of telling any- 
thing particularly new — save as it is new to him — and 
must appreciate the old inscription of a book, perhaps 
not accurately recalled, but which went something 
like this — 

"You ask for something original, 
But I scarce know where to begin; 
In me there's nothing original 
Except the original sin." 

From Marseilles our hope had been to spend some 
hours at Avignon, substituted for almost seventy 
years (1309-1377) in the fourteenth century, for 
Rome as the home of the Papacy. A brief view of it, 
however, had to suffice, owing to the train arrange- 
ments. That it has especial interest for a parson- 
saunterer, however, is well shown by what the late 
Bishop Westcott of Durham wrote of it after a visit 
there : ' ' Avignon is, I think, the most impressive city 
I have ever seen. There is scarcely any trace of the 
industries of today. All, except one straight street 
to a modern Place and the Place itself is of the Middle 

[112] 



AVIGNON— PARADOXICAL PARIS 

Ages, or at least of the old world . . . The view 
is magnificent with walls of distant mountains on all 
sides, and in front, opposite to the Castle of the 
Popes, the Castle of the King . . . We started to 
see the Cathedral and the Papal Palace. The Papal 
Palace is a barrack for fifteen hmidred soldiers. 
They sleep in what was once Chapel and Council 
Chamber." It is one of the humors of the fasci- 
nations for old horrors that Henry James associates 
with Avignon, when he tells us that what for a long 
time gave tourists the "shudders" as a supposed 
funnel-shaped torture chamber proved to be nothing 
more nor less than a mediaeval bakehouse! 

Aries, too, associated with the early British 
Church, in that three British Bishops are recorded as 
present at the Council held there in A. D. 314, show- 
ing both the Church existence and organization at 
that early period, would have been an interesting 
"browsing" place, but the Saunterer had to be con- 
tent to confine Church antiquarian instincts to pass- 
ing glimpses there and elsewhere en route until Paris, 
the City of Paradoxes, was reached. And to de- 
scribe it as a City of Paradoxes is simply to indicate 
the impression it all left on one visitor. Some one 
has said that few people stop to analyze their im- 
pressions. Whether this is so or not, as one thinks 
upon what has been written upon Paris, it seems to 
be the case that there at any rate is an exception, and 
that most of the travelers of the world have un- 
hesitatingly and Hngeringly analyzed their impres- 
sions. "Gay Paris" is quite a common estimate, 
but no one adjective would cover the ground for an 
expression of what it seemed to the Saunterer. Of 
course, he went the staid round of sightseeing to 
which in the wide familiarity with it and fame of it 
only this briefest reference need be made. And 
there was naturally no lack of the sprightly aspect 

[113] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

of people and things. But such sights as the Prison 
of La Roquette, with its suggestions of the pictures 
he remembers to have seen about the time of the Com- 
mune, of the martyred Archbishop Darboy with 
other victims, in Kne against the wall and the mus- 
kets of a file of soldiers leveled against them awaiting 
the signal to fire, tell their story of a gory Paris. 
So, suspended from the roof in the interior of Notre 
Dame, does the hat of the same prelate, all marking 
events in the memory of the Saunterer. So, dating 
from the earliest periods, did that field of the guillo- 
tine at the Picpus Cemetery with the monumentless 
mounds at the graves of the thirteen hundred ex- 
ecuted at the Barriere du Trone. And many a place 
of tragedy and pathos in and around the city is in 
like evidence of blood-shedding. One can understand 
that "desire to be excused," reported of Queen 
Victoria on one of her visits to France, from occupy- 
ing state apartments which had been assigned her at 
the Grand Trianon at Versailles. Grim Paris it 
seems also as you bend over the balustrade to look 
down at the tomb of Napoleon, if war is "grim." 
The whole spell of the Napoleonic cult you feel and, 
indeed, if the tradition be true, the designer of the 
tomb ingeniously provided that every visitor to the 
tomb, by the very attitude of looking over the low 
circHng wall of the gallery above it, should make a 
quasi-obeisance to it. Musical Paris it seems as you 
visit the grave of Chopin; theological Paris as by the 
graves of Abelard and Heloise you recall the con- 
troversies, the typical Gallicanism, the Hterature and 
romance that have stirred and fluctuated in the 
ecclesiastical Paris of the Christian centuries. For 
a single generation has seen a France — that means 
Paris — esteem the right hand of the Papacy as in the 
time of Napoleon the Third and Eugenie, and as now 
practically under Papal ban. Well do some of our 

[114] 



H! 




^s 



B OD 

o o 
? B 






s|:5|.^ 



'2.'2 S o 

0^ ^o 






AVIGNON— PARADOXICAL PARIS 

New Testament commentators see in the Galatians 
of old the Asia Minor type, if not the direct kin, of 
the Gaul — the course of that empire being eastward 
instead of westward by a curious ethnical trend — and 
in both the ancestry of a trait of modern France 
identified by St. Paul when he says to the Galatians, 
"Who hath bewitched you?" 

Moreover, it was certainly a hospitable Paris as 
we found old friends there and experienced their 
courtesy. And by no means a "beaten path" we 
found — our driver went astray and had to do consid- 
erable inquiring to "place" it — was the pilgrimage 
to the grave of Lafayette. Of all places in Paris for 
Americans to put in their itinerary, one would think 
that the place in the Picpus Cemetery of the burial 
of the great friend of America would have first 
recognition. By it is the grave of Lafayette's son, 
George Washington Lafayette. Small American flags 
bore the evidence of former visitors, but they were so 
dingy that either the pilgrimages are few or the 
American spirit not "everywhere" just then. It 
was from this grave that our French Consul some 
years ago secured the earth which was mingled with 
earth from the battlefields of the American Revolu- 
tion on the occasion of the interesting ceremony, in 
which the Saunterer was privileged to take part, when 
the Daughters of the American Revolution planted a 
young sequoia in Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, 
and rooted it in the mingled soil brought from the 
Revolutionary battlefields and the grave of Lafayette. 
And would it not be a happy provision for our Soci- 
eties of the Revolution to see that there is always a 
worthy flag at the grave, and for our American 
colony in Paris to have some annual commemoration 
there, if that has not been a custom heretofore. 

And so the Paris that seemed to the Saunterer 
gay and gory and grim, and musical and theological 

[115] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

and hospitable and stimulating to patriotism, left 
him with all these impressions coming together with- 
out clashing, and he finds "Paradoxical Paris" not 
inaptly describing its effect upon him. 

Of the Paris of fashion the Saunterer will not be 
expected to speak. But he will avow the high claim 
to consideration of the code of the well-dressed. 
Refinement in this respect may be illustrated by 
fashion plates as the learned book is by "cuts." 
And dynasties may come and dynasties may go, and 
republics may have their crises and throes, but Paris 
wQl prob£ibly rule in the realm of raiment, to say 
nothing of what we eat and drink, as long as its 
beautiful art in architecture looms against the sky, 
or colors the suidight with exquisite hues like those 
in the stained glass of Sainte Chapelle. And, by the 
way, it was Christopher Wren, the architect, who 
put on record that animated scene he witnessed at 
the court in Paris of the seventeenth century, when 
the high structured head-dress of one of the great 
dames came in contact with a candle on the table in 
the supper room as she in stately manner incau- 
tiously bent over it. A high ecclesiastic noted that 
some of the flaming ornament at the apex had ignited 
and he instinctively caught the whole coiffure in his 
hands to find it detach itself entirely from the good 
lady's head, leaving a perfectly bald pate to accord 
with the rich evening dress. She, in her discomfiture, 
distributed a custard she was eating over the rich 
cassock of the well-meaning prelate-fireman, and, lol 
the rueful denouement ! 

But the Hght-hearted tourist, who touches the 
surface sketchily, as the Saunterer has done, must 
never allow himself to forget the profounder things 
of Paris with so much to justify its claim as "the 
most beautfful city in the world," and the signal 
history making there. That, however, belongs to 

[1161 



AVIGNON— PARADOXICAL PARIS 

more serious chapters. Only every Churchman and 
every Christian can feel something of the pride of 
Paris that her Clovis had the Christian Clotilda to 
shape his and his country's destiny just as the fair 
city's later King Charibert gave his daughter Bertha 
to go over to Kent and carry the Christian religion 
with her as a condition of her marriage to Ethelbert, 
and so prepare the way for the mission of St. Augus- 
tine to Southern England. 



1171 



LONDON HOSPITALITY 

IAMBETH and Fulham "meant London" to Samuel 
Seabury, when he went there in 1783. His 
quest made them "loom larger" than any 
J other historic spots in that metropolis of the 
ages. With the then Archbishop of Canterbury and 
Bishop of London seemed to rest the whole object of 
his visit. For the time whether independent America 
should have bishops appeared to be involved in his 
mission, he being the first here elected for consecra- 
tion. The familiar story of his ultimately securing 
consecration from Scotland as the Bishop of Connec- 
ticut and first American Bishop need not be repeated 
here, the pertinency of it being merely in the fact 
that he spent a good deal of time at both Lambeth 
and Fulham "cooling his heels" and not getting any- 
where, though he was received not without courtesy 
and genuine interest by the then occupants of the 
respective Sees. It was simply a case where condi- 
tions for which they did not feel responsible, neces- 
sary oaths of allegiance required by the law to the 
Sovereign from whom the United States had just 
estabhshed freedom, and the like, blocked progress. 
The modern Episcopal Saunterer is apt to have Lam- 
beth and Fulham figure largely in his London memo- 
ries, but for reasons quite in contrast with those of 
our Seabury's somewhat deterrent experiences. The 
welcome of successive decennial Lambeth Confer- 
ences to the bishops who gather from all over the 
world has now given a traditional association of 
hospitality for American bishops to those ancient 
Sees. And the Saunterer found, as so many epis- 
copal visitors find when visiting London, the warmth 
of that hospitality extended to the individual and 

[118] 




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skills 



LONDON HOSPITALITY 

his family in further personal experience of the con- 
ference hospitahty. And if the pen of the guest 
were not under sensitive limitations of pubHcity it 
would give a fond opportunity here to speak in detail 
of the genuine simphcity of life and wholesome 
example of true family circle religion and happiness 
that we felt in the atmosphere of those homes where 
we were privileged to know it. The pre-eminence of 
the dignities of the Sees, the wide influence and per- 
sonal charm of character of the present Archbishop 
of Canterbury, Dr. RandaU Davidson, and of Mrs. 
Davidson, daughter of the former Archbishop Tait 
of Canterbury, and the synonym for "sweetness and 
hght" personified in the present Bishop of London, 
Dr. Winnington-Ingram, suggest a revision of a 
taking phrase current a few years since from the 
title of a book. The impression, at any rate, from 
the inner life around those two historic episcopal 
hearthstones was of a "Vital" rather than a "Fatal 
Opulence of the Episcopate." And it was no sur- 
prise to find royalty itself betimes betaking to those 
same firesides of the simple life. As a contribution 
to the facetise from California it seemed germane to 
tell of one of our good fellow-citizens who, some years 
since, after having in a remote rural part of the state 
had his first experience of our services in a school- 
house, told the missionary, "I rather like what I 
have seen of the Episcopal Church but I have one 
thing agin ye." "And what is that.^^" said the 
Missionary. "WeU," said the candid critic, " I never 
could imderstand that rule of the Episcopal Church 
that none of your ministers can preach any sermons 
unless they are written by the Archbishop of Canter- 
bury!" The contemplation of such a homiletic 
responsibility ''urbi et orhV had in it possibihties for 
which even the world-wide pressure upon his high 
office could hardly prepare him, as it touched the 

[119] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

Archbishop's sense of humor. This curious notion 
which the Saunterer once found existing also in a 
rural part of New England seems to have percolated 
down as a sort of folk lore from Archbishop Gran- 
mer's association with homihes to which, in troubled 
times, the EngHsh pulpit was a good deal restricted. 
In added evidence of the thoughtfulness of our host 
the youngest member of the Saunterer's party 
treasures a volume about Lambeth most thoughtfully 
presented her with the Archbishop's autograph. 

Fulham Palace is such a large and rambling house 
that Mrs. Greighton tells us in her Life of Bishop 
Creighton, the immediate predecessor of the present 
Bishop, that he "never learnt to find his way over it." 
As we drove up to its entrance to accept the cordial 
invitation of the Bishop of London to visit him, 
instinctively the Saunterer looked around for some 
of those "rooks" to caw out against any Henrician 
origin of the Ghurch of England, which the Bishop 
apostrophized so originedly in his address at our 
Richmond General Gonvention in 1907. There 
certainly could be no spot where the Corvus frugilegus 
could better justify its name historically than around 
that moat. But the choice privilege was accorded 
the Saunterer during the visit at Fulham, so full of 
kindly hospitahty to him and his, of being "turned 
loose" in the "muniment room" among the some 
three thousand documents bearing on the subject of 
the connection of the Ghurch in America with the 
See of London, referred to by Bishop Winnington- 
Ingram in his sermon at the opening of our General 
Gonvention in 1907. It made singularly vivid our 
Golonial Ghurch history, to see the original reports 
from early Virginia and Maryland clergy and to read 
letters from pioneers of the Ghurch in Gonnecticut 
whose names were especially famiUar to the Saunterer 
in his studies during his own Gonnecticut ministry, 

[120] 



LONDON HOSPITALITY 

such as Samuel Johnson of Stratford, Caner and 
Learning, and the credentials of Seabury, Beach and 
other young candidates going out to England to be 
ordained. There were, too, some documents illu- 
strative of the difficulties of "long range " disciphnary 
efforts. The Hbrary of Fulham also had its own lure. 
It was in that Hbrary that was found, about 1855, 
Bradford's History of Plymouth Plantation, some- 
times known as The Log of the Mayflower, by a curi- 
ous clue through a footnote in Anderson's Colonial 
Church History, after a disappearance of over a cen- 
tury, and later returned to Massachusetts by the 
Bishop of London, Dr. Greighton, in 1897, through 
our American Minister, Mr. Bayard. Much was 
made of this at the time, the precious volume being 
formally deHvered to the Governor of Massachusetts 
in the presence of the two Houses of the Legislature 
of the State, and of a large number of officials and 
notable citizens. Mrs. Greighton tells the interesting 
story in the Life of the Bishop above cited. 

But the memorable social hours at Fulham in 
which the Bishop of London might have been thought 
not to have a care — and, how well they do that around 
EngHsh firesides! — did not misinterpret to us his 
crowded life. We were privileged to attend the con- 
secration of a new church, St. Jude-on-the-hiU, 
London, one of some two hundred and forty which 
the church extension pohcy of the Bishops of London 
have registered in forty years in trying to keep pace 
with the spreading population. After the consecra- 
tion service followed an interesting service of un- 
veiHng a memorial tablet to the late King Edward 
VII. by his sister, the Duchess of Argyle. And the 
next day, Monday, May 8th, the Bishop took us 
to his "box" for the annual service at St. Paul's 
Gathedral in the interest of the Sons of the Glergy, 
with its great congregation and imposing function, 

fmi 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

and SulKvan's In Memoriam and the Hallelujah 
Chorus. As sampling a "day's job" on the same 
date he was off in the early forenoon for some visita- 
tion, conferring with a bevy of candidates for orders 
about luncheon time and winding up with presiding 
at a great temperance meeting in the evening. The 
Fulham rooks would be busy indeed cawing if they 
attempted to remonstrate against the present Bishop 
of London's "starting things, " as he says they would 
at the idea of the Eighth Henry originating the 
Church I 

But our story of London hospitahty would be very 
incomplete if it did not tell of what might be called 
CaUfornian hospitahty in London. Awaiting us on 
our arrival were notes providing for our enjoyment 
from the American Ambassador and Mrs. Whitelaw 
Reid. And around the hospitable board of Dorch- 
ester House and in their private box at the opera, we 
experienced that warm-hearted welcome which is 
their distinction to all that know them well worthy 
of the high position of the Representatives at the 
Court of St. James. The loss of Mr. Reid has been 
published to the world in international language, but 
his death in these recent months has touched multi- 
tudes of hearts with a sadness and a sympathy for 
her who knew him best that does not appear in print. 

Homes of those whose sojourn in California had 
taught us to value their friendship welcomed us with 
a hospitahty which often took us away from our 
hotel. Sir Robert and Lady Balfour and Mr. and 
Mrs. WilHamson made many a day and evening hour 
happy with the renewal of "old California times" 
and the London making of the new. And to find 
our Mrs. William H. Crocker in London and for us 
to spend an evening with her at her home and the 
opera was another case of Californian hospitahty 
transplanted, as it was to find our Rev. Frank Stone 

[122] 



LONDON HOSPITALITY 

with all his thought for our hotel reservations and 
intelligent getting about. 

And with all this warm-hearted hospitaHty from 
London friends, how much the Saunterer valued the 
hospitaUty from London altars — like that which can 
be found any day and at diifferent hours of any morn- 
ing at St. Paul's Cathedral. A place to be stilled in 
all the stir of travel, a place to try to come to one's 
self in the outing from work, a place to carry world 
impressions to the Saviour of the world, a place to be 
thankful for manifold blessings in the Eucharist. 
Verily, to find the comfort of it all for one's self is 
more firmly to fix the purpose to do what in him heth 
to offer Uke provision for visitors so far as practicable 
in another cathedral life nearer home. 



123 



IN AND ABOUT LONDON 

IONDON was getting its coronation garb when we 
were there. Paper "dodgers" were flutter- 
. ing around the streets in which some associa- 
^ tion was vahantly decrying against the 
banking up against St. Martin 's-in-the-Fields and 
other churches on the Hue of march, great flounce- 
Kke lumber stands for spectators; notices confronted 
you in your hotel rooms that the days were numbered 
when you could occupy them at the usual rates. 
Street travel was getting more and more congested. 
Robe-makers were running their needles through 
much gold lace. Westminster Abbey was closed to 
the pubHc in order to effect the proper scale of 
preparation there. Though all the world loves a 
coronation, and we should have much enjoyed seeing 
the pageantry of the vast procession, the considerable 
part of our world-circuit still before us did not permit 
us to stay for it. However, we witnessed the un- 
veihng of the commanding memorial of Queen 
Victoria before Buckingham Palace. This was an 
imposing function, in which both King George V. 
and Emperor William of Germany took part, with 
many other representatives of royalty present. 

Another opportunity afforded the Saunterer in 
Church circles was that of looking in upon the 
meeting of the Lower House of the Convocation of 
Canterbury held in the Church House. Though no 
matter of especial moment was under consideration 
at the time, the methods had an interest of their own, 
and it was evident that no Henry VHI. or George 
I. was holding any writs in terror em over the speakers. 
Indeed, as a "talk fest," it showed how one of the 
real problems of the Church of England is to find a 

[124] 



IN AND ABOUT LONDON 

true and more immediate legislative authority to add 
to the voice of Convocation. It was about the middle 
of the last century that it "awakened out of sleep 
after its long hibernation," as Bishop Wilberforce, who 
was mainly instrumental in the revival, expressed it, 
the assembly having been then practically in abey- 
ance for nearly a hundred and fifty years. 

A dinner party given us by Sir Robert and Lady 
Balfour in the dining hall of the Houses of Parhament 
afforded us a most enjoyable evening, and one some- 
what out of the ordinary, in that we met several of 
the leaders of the House of Commons, of which Sir 
Robert is a member, including Mr. Nicholson, 
prominent in the Ecclesiastical Commission. After 
dinner we were shown many points of interest eibout 
the buildings, such as St. Stephen's Chapel, mem- 
orable parts of Westminster Hall, the "Whips" 
Rooms, and visited the House of Lords to hear a bit 
of the debating there. If one supposes that the 
matter under discussion, which was none other than 
the much-mooted revolutionary reform of the House 
of Lords itself, was Kkely to "pack the House" and 
"tear a passion to tatters," he does not know that 
sedate and unruffled chamber of high degree. So 
calm was most of its membership at that particular 
time, at any rate, that it was absent, and the few 
noble lords that were rippHng along in their cur- 
rents of speech suggested the old classical "many 
twinkling smile" of quiet waters far more than any 
storm tossing. They were certainly not at all of the 
class of that chronic objector of Sidney Smith's day, 
of whom he said, when he first heard of the success 
of communication by telegraph: "Why, that will 
enable Mr. to protest as far as the Hue goes !" 

It is often s£ud that Londoners know how to work 
because they know how to play, and an afternoon at 
the Ranelagh Club, occupying the fine old place of 

[125] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

many acres used, we were told, as an athletic center 
since the founding of the Kit-Gat Club in 1703, gave 
us an entertaining object lesson of that. Balls of 
almost all kinds of games were measuring mind with 
matter — polo, tennis, foot and the hke — in one kind 
of smart sets, while another kind of "smart set'* 
was much in picturesque evidence all over the 
beautiful lawns under an ideal sky. And our motor- 
ing the same afternoon took us to the spacious Kew 
Gardens, with another exhibit of London in healthful 
outing. 

"The way they do things" in Ghurch Gommittee 
was well illustrated by several happy experiences of 
the courtesy and work of the great London Missions 
to Seamen Society, of which we in San Francisco 
have so much reason to be appreciative. On Mon- 
day, May 1st, was held in the large hall of the 
Ghurch House the Fifty-fifth Annual Meeting of the 
Society, with the American Ambassador, the Hon. 
Whitelaw Reid, in the chair, a distinguished body 
of men supporting him on the platform, and a full 
and representative attendance in the hall, among 
whom were several of our fondly remembered San 
Francisco ex-chaplains. Then the Saunterer was 
privileged to attend one of the meetings of the 
General Gonunittee at the office on Buckingham 
street, and to note the activities there as the routine 
is carried on for some one hundred seaports and 
among fishermen, bargemen and hghtship men under 
the efficient work of Mr. Stuart G. Knox, secretary, 
and the Rev. G. F. Wilson, and the staff. Still 
another phase of this thought for Ghrist's "sover- 
eignty of the seas" was a very successful concert 
given at Grosvenor House, a palace of the Duke of 
Westminster, attended by representatives of royalty 
and of the nobility, and rendered by "stars" from 
companies at various leading London places of 

[1261 




Mural Tablet in Ampthill Church, Bedfordshire, England. 
Erected to Col. Richard Nicolls who named New York 

The cannon-ball that killed Sir Richard Nicolls is plainly seen in the pic- 
ture. He it was who won what is our New York from the Dutcli in 1664 
and gave it its neune after his friend and patron, the 
Duke of York, afterwards James II. 



IN AND ABOUT LONDON 

amusement, among them Miss Ellen Terry and Mr. 
Harry Lauder. The real extent and vitality of the 
interest in the sailor as shown by the constancy of 
the committee with its eminent membership of busy 
men, the pubhc meetings, as the services freely given 
by the entertainers, not only find support for the 
particular agency, but are typical of London's way 
of taking up what it deems "worth while" in good 
work. 

"Of all the many picturesque and pleasant places 
in Bedfordshire, none can excel the ancient and 
historical town of Ampthill," says a pamphlet given 
the Saunterer by the hospitable and most helpful 
Vicar of St. Andrew's Church, Ampthill, the Rev. W. 
Dunstan May, who, with Mrs. May, made a day's 
pilgrimage there of added interest. And, histori- 
cally, Henry VHI. made Ampthill Manor, with its 
"goodlye and parklye parks" an "Honour," and, as 
one of his seats, sad Queen Katharine of Arragon 
resided there two years. Our particular quest was 
to see a marble monument on the north wall of the 
Sanctuary of the ancient Parish Church, described 
in the pamphlet as "most interesting," surmounted 
by a coat-of-arms, with cannon ball fixed in the pedi- 
ment, a curious ornament whereby hangs a tale, 
which is explained in the superscription, ''instru- 
mentum Mortis et Immortalitatis" (the Instrument 
of Mortahty and Immortahty). The inscription 
tells in Latin that this mural table is sacred to the 
memory of Richard NicoUs, now joined with his best 
of parents in the tomb as he was most closely joined 
with them in fihal duty, the son of Francis and 
Margaret Bruce, groom of the bed-chamber to His 
Highness, James, Duke of York. In the year 1643, 
having left the seats of the Muses, he led a troop of 
horse against the rebels, a bold and intrepid youth. 
In the year 1664, having become ripe in age and 

[127] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

miKtary science, on being sent to North America in 
command, he restored Long Island and the remainder 
of the islands to their rightful lord, after driving out 
the Dutch, and honored the Province and the forti- 
fications with the name of his patron, and for three 
years was their governor. He was distinguished in 
college, in war, in court, in civil office, in Hterature, 
in virtue, in endowment of mind, and in prudence, 
everywhere endeared by his character and upright- 
ness of deed. On the twenty-eighth of May, 1672, 
while gallantly fighting against the same Dutch on 
the flagship, he fell pierced through, being hit by a 
large cannon ball. This identical cannon ball which 
caused his death is the one embedded in the mural 
tablet. On consulting the well-preserved parish 
records, we found the original entry of his burial on 
June 11th, 1672, and by an interesting coinci- 
dence, when visiting Hampton Court the day after 
the trip to Ampthill, we saw on the walls of the 
room known as the "Prince of Wales' Room," 
some tapestries made in Mortlake, England, and 
the only tapestries at Hampton Court made in 
England, in which was pictured the very naval 
battle with the Dutch in 1672, in which Sir Richard 
NicoUs was killed. The especial interest to Ameri- 
cans is that it was this Sir Richard NicoUs — the name 
has undergone various forms of spelHng — who won 
New York from the Dutch in 1664, and gave it its 
present name after his friend and patron, the Duke 
of York, afterwards James II. And the Saunterer 
had a personal desire to see the church and the monu- 
ment from the placing in the pubhshed genealogy of 
his family, of Francis Nichols, who came to Strat- 
ford, Connecticut, in 1639, as the first of the Con- 
necticut branch, as the brother of this Sir Richard. 

Among other expeditions were those to Canter- 
bury, where the crypt monument of Archbishop 

[128] 



IN AND ABOUT LONDON 

Temple suggested changes since the last visit, when 
in 1897 he was the sturdy leader in the great function 
of the Lambeth Conference held in the cathedral, 
and the baring from plaster of the inner stone of the 
walls of Kttle St. Martin's had revealed its structural 
ages; to Hampton Court, where, through Mrs. 
Creighton's kind courtesy, we were accorded some 
special privileges; to Woolwich Arsenal, where our 
former San Francisco Seamen's Institute chaplain, 
the Rev. Mr. Wingfield-Digby and his good wife 
welcomed us to his home, and the pulpit of the Royal 
Military Academy Chapel (St. Michael). And from 
London itself we brought away many memories of 
old and new friends, and were not slow in going 
about to homes and historic spots and offices, in- 
cluding that of the late Mr. George Bodley, now of 
his successor, Mr. Cecil G. Hare, from which the 
general conception of our Grace Cathedral came as 
Mr. Bodley's very last work. And in and about 
London altogether we could appreciate the lines: 

"Tower'd cities please us then, 
And the busy hum of men." 



129 



JAUNTINGS IN BRITAIN 

EVERY Galifornian who visits Oxford ought to 
make it one of the points of especial interest, 
among the multitude of others of which the 
guide books tell, to sit in a certain carved 
oaken chair in the Bodleian library. This was made 
out of some of the sound timber of the ship of Francis 
Drake, the "Golden Hinde," in 1662, when the highly 
valued historic vessel had become much decayed. 
That ship with its company spent several weeks in 
Drake's Bay, some thirty miles north of San Fran- 
cisco, in 1579, when it made that notable record of 
being the first Enghsh ship to "plow a furrow around 
the world." The silver plate affixed to it has the 
inscription from Abraham Cowley's pen: 

"This ship which round the world has run 
And matched in race the chariot of the sun, 
This Pythagorean ship (for it may claim 
Without presumption so deserved a name) 
By knowledge once and transformation now 
On her new stage this sacred part allow. 
Drake and his ship could not have wished from fate 
An happier station or more blest estate, 
For lo! a seat of endless rest is given 
To her in Oxford and to him in heaven." 

The American Churchman, however, does not 
need to follow this somewhat circuitous course of 
Crowley's muse to find propriety as a resting place 
for the chair among Hbrary alcoves. It is enough 
for the California Churchman to know its association 
with its chaplain, Francis Fletcher, and his first use 
of the Book of Common Prayer in the present terri- 
tory of the United States to give it due bookish flavor 
for such an academic environment. And if the only 
memorandum made here of the visit to Oxford is 
the chronicHng of the fact that the Saunterer and his 

[130] 



JAUNTINGS IN BRITAIN 

party dutifully sat in that particular chair, it is not 
to leave the impression that they sat in no other 
chairs nor that they visited no other spots in that 
classic city. No, but the books about Oxford so 
abundantly load down any one who has the desire to 
know about it that they suggest to any traveler the 
mot of the late Bishop Stubbs of Oxford, who aston- 
ished the porter at the Oxford station helping him 
to his train who asked, "How many articles, my 
lord?" by replying, "Why, thirty-nine, of course I" 
And very much the same reticence will be regarded 
by the Saunterer with reference to visits, most inter- 
esting and enjoyable in themselves, to Leamington, 
Stratford-on-Avon, Warwick, Kenilworth ruin and 
other places which every tourist "does." The drives 
were favored with skies and swards and other attrac- 
tive EngHsh scenery that used to so often furnish the in- 
tr6ductory " setting "for old-fashioned Enghsh novels. 
At Liverpool, however, our good hosts, Mr. and 
Mrs. Robert B. Forman, with whom there are many 
happy California associations, made us well forget 
for the time that we were "globe-trotting" in the 
warm hospitahty of "High Pastures, Mossley Hill." 
The experience and the name drove even a pedes- 
trian pen into rhyme: 

High Pastures. 
, "High Pastures" — crural name of long ago 

For open fields where flocks and herds could browse 
Or swishing scythe could topple for hay mows 
Lush fragrant grass in each new mown winrow. 
For pastures high may hungry cattle low, 
Who knows but outlook e'en the mild-eyed cows 
With mystic nature-love, like ours, endows 
For landscape far sunlit with golden glow ? 
"High Pastures" now of vine clad home we know 
Fit name for welcome walls and roof that house, 
The hearthstone joy from sacred altar vows 
And friendship feed and ever stronger grow 
As each glad guest "in clover" finds it so. 

[131] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

The new modern cathedral enterprise at Liver- 
pool naturally had an interest of its own for one 
having some responsibiHties in that line himself and 
the Lord Bishop of Liverpool, the Rt. Rev. Dr. 
Ghavasse, was most kind in furnishing information 
about it. The late Mr. George F. Bodley, R. A., 
who as his last work outlined the plan for our Grace 
Cathedral, San Francisco, occupied an advisory 
position in relation to the Liverpool Cathedral, and 
both the scale and treatment of it are well worthy of 
the present day Church of England and of the 
genius of the youthful architect — ^he was only twenty- 
one years of age when his design was chosen by 
competition — Mr. Giles Gilbert Scott, grandson of 
the great Gothic architect, Sir Gilbert Scott, R. A. 
The completed Lady Chapel, itself one hundred by 
thirty-five and six-tenths feet, has well been described 
as having for its special notes, strength, grace, sim- 
phcity and dignity. It is strikingly beautiful and 
sets a high standard for the rest of the cathedral, 
which is also under construction. It had been the 
privilege of the Saunterer to meet the chairman of 
the executive committee, Sir WilHam B. Forwood, 
when at Luxor, up the Nile, and to learn from him 
many interesting data as to the cathedral and the 
wide interest and generosity which made it possible. 

Mr. Forman's trusteeship in the Liverpool Blue 
Coat School, an old foundation going back to the 
beginning of the eighteenth century, enabled us to 
attend a somewhat unique service conducted en- 
tirely by the boys of the institution. The scholars 
not only read the office but recited the Scripture 
lessons, and one of them made an excellent catechiser 
of his fellows, putting them through with all dignity 
and directness. There were some two hundred and 
fifty boys and one hundred girls in attendance, and 
the uniform was a quaint one. 

[132] 




"Fox How," Lake Country, England — home of the Arnolds 

Miss Arnold, youngest sister of Matthew Arnold, graciously received us 

and pointed out to us favorite seats and outlooks of the 

members of that distinguished family. 



JAUNTINGS IN BRITAIN 

Our good hosts, however, had in store for us one 
of the most enjoyable experiences of our trip and that 
was a motor ride with them to and through the Enghsh 
Lake country. If there is such a thing as the * ' poetry 
of motion " there is certainly no misnomer in speaking 
of a "lake poetry" of motoring. Wordsworth, 
Coleridge and Southey and the others could, of 
course, have no "chug-chug" metres, and possibly 
would have satirized and sonnetized the introduction 
as fairly barbaric in true Ruskinese vigor. Matthew 
Arnold might have been prompted to new protests 
against philistinism. But all the same as these 
"cars" hterally ride upon "air," even though it be 
compressed into rubber tires, and mend people's 
ways in good road movements and carry you into 
many a highland beauty scene of landscape where 
the iron horse does not go, and the fleshly horse must 
strain and foam to go, they must be granted at least 
some of the credentials of afflatus. 

The first arm of our journey took us through 
Preston and Kendal to the "Low Wood Hotel" near 
Windermere by the lakeside. Other days took us 
past Grasmere, Thirlmere, Derwentwater and Bas- 
senthwaite. 

"Cultured slopes 
Wild tracts of forest-ground, and scattered groves 
And mountains bare, or clothed with ancient woods 
Surrounded us." 

There were cherished visits, too, to add human 
interest to all the spell of nature. In St. James' 
Church, Arnside, was the baptism of the Httle son of 
the Rev. and Mrs. James Fell, with the after meeting 
of friends at the vicarage. Mr. Fell, as the founder 
of our Seamen's Institute in San Francisco, won the 
admiration and high regard of many Calif ornians who 
knew of his work. And at "Fox How," so much 
associated with Dr. Arnold, it was our privilege to 

[133] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

meet Miss Arnold, the youngest sister of Matthew 
Arnold, who graciously received us and pointed out 
to us favorite seats and outlooks of the members of 
that distinguished family, affording new vividness to 
many a reference in their biographies. It was with 
real reluctance that we exchanged the coursings of 
the scenic automobile for the railway compartment 
when the time came for us to leave our good friends 
and speed on to Edinburgh. Of course the sight- 
seeing there was as usual and need not be detailed here 
save that the weather was ideal and the country 
"braw," flouting the old verses on Scotch weather: 

"Dirty days hath September, 
April, June and November; 
From January until May, 
The rain it raineth every day. 
All the rest have thirty-one 
Without one single ray of sun. 
And, if any of them had two and thirty, 
They'd be just as wet and twice as dirty." 

It SO happened that just at that time all three 
General gatherings of the Estabhshed Kirk, the Free 
Kirk and the United Free Kirk were holding their 
sessions in their respective assembly places within 
a stone's throw of each other, and the Saunterer had 
the rare opportunity to drop in at all three of them 
to hear their debates and note their methods. But 
the topics under discussion at the time were not 
disputatious, and John Knox would probably have 
contributed something to their "ginger." A motor- 
ing trip to Roslyn Chapel — ^injwhich our hosts, the 
Formans, had been married — and a call upon Prof. 
Campbell Frazer, Mrs. Forman's father, who in his 
ninety-second year was vigorous and as recent as 
Eucken in the philosophical studies which made his 
professorial chair notable so many years — these were 
pleasures of Edinburgh and vicinity not down in the 
guide books. 

[134] 



JAUNTINGS IN BRITAIN 

There still awaited us a most happy, though brief, 
experience of Ireland to follow that of England and 
Scotland. Mr. and Mrs. WilUam B. Bourn, our 
valued friends and neighbors in San Francisco, were 
at "Muckross House" with their daughter and her 
husband, Mr. and Mrs. Arthur Vincent. The Eliza- 
bethan mansion and the estate had lately come into 
their possession, and their thought for us enabled us 
to share the glories of the Killarney lake country. 
Here again was the "lake poetry" of motoring, as we 
from day to day traversed the roads winding through 
that fascinating region around Killarney lake toward 
Black Valley beyond the upper lake; another day to 
"Kate Kearney's Cottage" to go on horse or afoot 
through "Dunloe Gap," with its ragged rock sides 
and echoes, around to the upper lake with luncheon 
in the woods and a row home over the enchanted 
waters, down the rapids and under the old bridge, 
with a stop at Dinish island. Then a longer reach 
to Glenggu-iff and Bantry Bay with kaleidoscopic 
turns of scenery through Castletown and Kenmare 
to fill another day with memories of the "Green Isle" 
charms. A chmb to "Tore Cascade," a row to 
Innisfallen and to Ross Castle, walks along flower- 
bounded paths and especially the leisurely study of 
the ancient Muckross Abbey ruins with the personal 
guidance of the courteous custodian and historian, 
Mr. Maurice R. Moriarty, these were some of our 
outdoor occupations; while all indoor warmth of 
welcome and hospitahty grouped old friends around 
the hearth glow, across the ocean as "across the 
street," and seemed to emphasize the happy pro- 
priety of a citizen of the city of St. Francis so appro- 
priately holding the title to the world-famed Abbey 
of Franciscan foundation. 



[135] 



WATERLOO • COLOGNE CATHE- 
DRAL • BERLIN WAYS 

IT IS a paradox of the world-circuit that all the 
time the traveler is going away from home he is 
going towards home and that his face and back 
are both at once in the direction of start and 
finish. Fortunately this does not constitute him 
a "facing-both-ways" pilgrim. But the Saunterer 
found something of this anomaly when he reahzed 
that at the very time when the "return trip" seemed 
to begin he had, by longitude, twice as much journey- 
ing before him to reach San Francisco as had been 
already covered in the circuit. In other words, when 
only about a third of the way around he somehow 
felt that he was "getting back." The sensation is 
all too complex to attempt to analyze it, but is 
another illustration of the fact, so baffling in modern 
rhyme and reason on all fines commercial, political, 
racial and astronomical that "East is West, etc." 
At any rate the next arm of our journey which 
took us, "ticketed through," from England to the 
Continent, because it was the first stage of the trans- 
European and trans-Asian course towards China, 
made us feel "on our way home." If these notes, 
by the way, were to chronicle things which did not 
happen, probably such "flashes of silence" would 
iUuminate the Channel trips and it is but fair to that 
silver streak, so much of a "human document," as 
men think of tunneling, swimming, or flying it, and 
so large a portion of mankind drearily toss on its 
surface, to say that our various experiences with it 
fortunately numbered only its sunny, smooth hours. 
That was auspicious in itself and we reached Brussels 

[136] 



WATERLOO— BERLIN WAYS 

with only one thrill en route, and that about getting 
Doveresque French into emergency shape for avoid- 
ing an impending mistraining of om* luggage. 

"Were you really surprised at Waterloo?" an 
enterprising fellow-citizen is said once to have asked 
the Iron Duke. "No, but I am now," was the 
animated reply. And it would be surprising if 
anyone could interject any new matter at this late 
day into the history or description of that field, over 
which it is only to add to its signal interest to say 
that probably even more ink than blood has been 
shed. This, however, scarcely affects the grim 
fascination and fresh interest with which each visitor 
surveys it, with the explanation of the guide, from 
the "Lion Mound," or goes the round of the points 
associated with the battle. To stand in such places 
as the old chapel of Hougomont, or by the side of 
the graves of those whose bodies rest near where they 
fell in the adjoining garden, is instinctively to visual- 
ize the valor and the crash of the fateful days. It 
is told of this chapel that while many of the wounded 
lying in adjoining buildings perished as flames 
reached them, those in the chapel escaped as the fire 
did not extend far beyond the entrance, it being a 
remarkable fact that it ceased at the foot of a wooden 
image of the Saviour. It is not easy to analyze the 
spell of a great historic battlefield with its marks of 

"The ghastly harvest of the fray." 
But is not a great element in it the repeopUng it 
with humanity in all its heroism and death ? Every 
touch of a participant or spectator that is preserved 
in hterature is eagerly treasured, just as the re- 
miniscences and anecdotes of our Civil War are 
always five matter for our magazines. Whether 
wholesome or not there is a human zest in making 
the scenes pass before the mind again. As the 
Saunterer stood in the Httle museum near the mound, 

[137] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

and among the many relics saw a skull pierced by a 
bullet and a hip bone with the bullet still lodged in it, 
his imagination wandered off into what the Ufe 
histories were into which they had entered. As 
whole animals are constructed from pre-historic 
single parts of the skeleton so he found himself 
mentally constructing the personahties that had Hved 
in those two reHcs. And perhaps the facts if they 
were known might be stranger than any fiction 
which would gather around such an attractive title 
as "The Bullet and the Bone." But the bloodshed 
of any great battlefield for principle and progress, 
while it is part of the profound mystery of evil and 
suffering, and may be minimized by the advance of 
civiHzation and humanity in our wide efforts for the 
reign of peace, does give humanity new sense of His 
touch with us Whose blood was given for us in the 
struggle of Gethsemane and Calvary. 

If here we note Brussels in association with 
Waterloo as in Byron's lines: 

"Belgium's Capital 
Had gathered its Beauty and Chivalry there." 

We may put in a quotation — we have not been 
guilty of it very often in the Saunterings — from the 
guide book for all the rest: "To appreciate Brus- 
sels, read the histories of the old town — ^the terrible 
period of the Spanish domination, the riots and 
bombardments in the seventeenth century, the 
annexation to France and the union with and seces- 
sion from the Low Countries" (even the guide books 
must occasionally intimate "look it up yourself"). 
And so at Cologne the jottings must simply be 
of such interesting memoranda of the original of the 
famous beauty portrait of Queen Louisa, of a picture 
of St. Francis, both in the museum, the Minorites 
Church, where Duns Scotus was buried, bits of ancient 
walls and towers outcropping on some of the principal 

[138] 



WATERLOO— BERLIN WAYS 

streets, and in contrast the striking modern railway 
bridge with equestrian statues of the recent German 
emperors. The principal reason for stopping there 
was, of course, the Cathedral called "the grandest 
Gothic building in the world. ' ' If it is a great ' ' poem 
in stone" it would take a poet to tell of it worthily. 
At any rate it leaves a great poem effect as an in- 
delible memory of art and genius upon the apprecia- 
tion of even a casual observer. In an extract from 
the diary of Canon Liddon given in his hfe (p. 100), 
it is noted of the Rev. C. L. Dodgson, better known 
as "Lewis Carroll," author of " Ahce in Wonderland," 
with whom Canon Liddon was then travehng: 
"Dodgson was overcome by the beauty of Cologne 
Cathedral. I found him leaning against the rails 
of the choir, and sobbing Hke a cliild." 

The Saunterer may be pardoned a very mundane 
descent from this lofty lift of the mind, in the reflec- 
tion, as one who has dug the first spadeful of earth in 
the excavation for an humbler fane, that those who 
have to do with the beginnings of cathedral building 
must not expect to see everything "done in twenty 
minutes." Here is the way there had to be waiting 
for Cologne. Begun in 1248, choir consecrated 1322, 
nave 1388; worked ceased about 1500, in 1795 French 
troops used the half ruinous Church for a hay maga- 
zine; work on building started again in 1823, finally 
consecrated in 1880. Six hundred and fifty years is 
no "hurry-up job," and even to take fifty and leave 
out the six hundred would be something of an 
acceleration. But we shall hope that San Francisco 
can do better than that. And the Saunterer cannot 
refrain from adding here a naive suggestion of the 
youngest member of his party. "When the San 
Francisco Cathedral. is built I hope they won't put 
all the beauty on the outside and leave so little for 
the inside, as they did in Cologne." 

[1391 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

Bismarck, in his autobiography, speaks of a "spirit 
of brag" with which Frederick the Great advised his 
representative in London, "When you go a-foot tell 
'em there are a hundred thousand men behind you." 
And an impression of Berlin relieves one of the feeling 
of any monopoly in brag of the proverbial American 
tourist. Perhaps the particular guide was respon- 
sible for such an impression, but at any rate there is 
something in the atmosphere of Berlin, which, with 
all it has to show for itself, does not allow the visitor 
to forget that it considers itself of some imperial and 
other consequence. And so the Saunterer no doubt 
manifested some surprise when he heard the guide 
speak familiarly of the late Emperor Frederick 
William as "Old Billy," and of the present Emperor 
as "Our Billy," in that land of lese-majeste. The 
guide explained that the terms were as it were 
diplomas of popularity, and that his has only been 
conferred by the populace upon the present Em- 
peror in recent years, having been withheld from him 
in his untried youth. That achievement on his part 
ought certainly to go on record with that of the 
notable quarter-century of the reign of the "mailed- 
fist" unbroken by war. In going through the Royal 
Palace it was intimated to us that for an extra con- 
sideration, in the absence of the Emperor, surrepti- 
tious views could be taken of the family apartments. 
With that sense of what might happen upon such a 
defiance of law in those precincts the Saunterer felt 
bound to ask the guide if he could have the heart to 
subject a law abiding American citizen to the jeop- 
ardy of being immured in some dire dungeon, and 
the proffer was withdrawn I There was no such 
sense of peril in witnessing the "guard mount" of the 
palace sentinels, with the rigid "goose-step" — not a 
dance — ^that entertained the street crowds so much 
as the soldierly marines from the German weirship 

[140] 



WATERLOO— BERLIN WAYS 

passed in the first San Francisco Portola celebration. 
There is a sort of kick-thrust about it. 

The museum would have been an aggravation 
if there had been weeks instead of hours at our 
disposal, with its wonderful and absorbing collec- 
tions, coins, ecclesiastical work from old churches, 
masterpieces of Rubens, Vandyke, Murillo and 
others. There was a Spanish Madonna Dolorosa 
of wood, with almost starthng effect of eyes and 
tear drop, before which we hngered. The new 
cathedral, more vast than ecclesiastical, the old 
castle with its family-hke interior, the drives along 
the Unter den Linden, and the new mihtary road all 
were duly included. And the visit was at any rate 
long enough to appreciate some of the changes in 
world importance and city status that have come 
over the metropoHs and capital since the beginning 
of Bismarck's career when he could speak of "the 
narrow horizon which bounded Berliners of those 
days." 



141 



ST. PETERSBURGH 

IT SEEMS that in the latest universal language, 
"new, simple and philosophically constructed," 
a sample word is "skwctwzwju," pronounced 
"skushtuksuzhu." It happens to mean "six 
hundred and seventy," but that is of Httle con- 
sequence in its bid for extreme simpHcity. The 
traveler towards Russia may now untwist his tongue 
and "unscramble" his consonants into mere chatter 
of elementary speech. If, for example, the Saunterer 
could only have had the command of that glib uni- 
versal tongue at a certain Russian railroad restaurant 
en route to St. Petersburgh, how it would have 
reheved the sense of suppressed power of expression! 
For even such trival matters will fasten themselves 
in the memory. We had only the proverbial "twenty 
minutes for meals," with not a word on the menu, nor 
from the waiter, disclosing the verisimiHtude of any 
of the available viands, either in English or in French, 
and then when a sign language did succeed in pro- 
ducing edible results a hissing locomotive outside 
and menacing clock hands inside betokened a "gulp 
and go" kind of repast. And when the change came 
in bulk of "kopecks" — which might have been tin 
discs so far as the Saunterer' s knowledge or inventory 
was concerned — and all hurried to the train to have 
the waiter appear in the car with a volubility and an 
earnestness — which a benevolent fellow passenger 
interpreted as the Russian for the waiter's having 
given me eighty kopecks too much change — alas! 
for such an experience before this new universal 
tongue has been given out to the world I 

However, at St. Petersburgh itself, which we 
reached after a comfortable journey of two nights 

[142] 



ST. PETERSBURGH 

and a day, English was abundantly spoken at the 
Grand Hotel d'Europe, where most comfortable 
rooms awaited us and indeed, with an excellent guide 
we had no after language puzzles. But when visiting 
the old fortress and Cathedral of St. Peter and St. 
Paul and asking questions of our guide, it was inter- 
esting to have some one standing by say: "Excuse 
me, but it is good to hear some straight American 
here," as I turned and found the speaker to be an 
officer of the United States Navy. 

We were fortunate in having a Sunday in St. 
Petersburgh, as it gave us the opportunity to attend 
the services at the Enghsh Chapel, which, with the 
chaplain 's apartments, is part of an old palace facing 
the Neva. The Rev. Mr. Lombard was most kind 
in welcoming us and enabled us to meet some of the 
congregation, though many of them were out of 
town for the summer. We were also able to stop in 
at the service of the great St. Isaac's Cathedral and 
enjoy the wonderful singing of the male choir and see 
the varied types of the vast congregation of worship- 
pers. When Canon Liddon visited St. Isaac 's nearly 
fifty years ago he expressed, in a letter to Canon 
Bright, what every fellow churchman must feel in 
witnessing such a service and seeing at first hand 
the working of the Russian Church: "There was 
an aroma of the fourth century about the whole 
(service) which was quite marvelous. The vast 
church was crowded with people of all classes, from 
the lowest to, I imagine, the very highest. . . . 
The devotion of many of the people was exuberant, 
passionate. They threw themselves flat upon the 
pavement when there was room; they kept their 
heads close to the stones for minutes together. . . . 
I cannot understand anybody coming here and say- 
ing that the Eastern Church is a petrifaction. Right 
or wrong, it is a vast, energetic and most powerful 

[143] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

body, with an evident hold upon the heart of the 
largest of European empires; indeed, a force within 
the Kmits of Russia to which I beheve there is no 
moral parallel in the West." 

As to the power of the rehgion in high places, the 
Saunterer somewhat unexpectedly came upon an 
evidence of it that appealed to him as sincere, as it 
was sacred to the private life of a czar. Passing 
through the great Winter Palace on the usual tour 
of its historic rooms, we came to one apartment 
which at the first glance had all the appearance of a 
hving room, in contrast with nearly all the other 
parts we had seen. It was the working room of the 
former Czar Alexander II., kept scrupulously, as a 
matter of sentiment, just as he had left it, even the 
usual disarrangement of the desk, a half-smoked cigar 
among other things included. Noticing a Bible 
securely clasped lying on the desk, the attendant 
was asked if it were allowable to open it. He said 
he had not been asked to do so before, would let us 
look into it, if we wished. It was a Russian Bible 
and well thumbed, with much marginal comment 
and loose leaves inserted here and there containing 
prayers in Russian, which the attendant interpreted 
to us as containing petitions for his people and many 
objects private and pubhc. Here there was a revela- 
tion of a Czar's personal rehgion. And that the 
Book was no less than a repository of some of his 
deepest and tenderest thought, one other discovery 
in the Bible disclosed. A book mark was there, a 
piece of cardboard perhaps one inch by three, with a 
simple faded worsted border and lettering of the sort 
that in our own country was the vogue with a past 
generation. Om* eyes were at once attracted to it 
by the fact that, in this Russian Bible, it was in 
EngUsh and it was this: "For my dear Papa, Aug. 
30," and then in finer lettering in Russian near its 

[144] 




Cathedral of the Resurrection, St. Petersburgh 

A great modem Church with lavish expenditure for marble and jewels and 

jutting out into the street to cover and preserve the paving stones gouged 

out by the bomb that killed Czar Alexander 11. 



I 



ST. PETERSBURGH 

edge "Alexandra, Stuttgart, 1847." The pathetic 
touch in it was that this had been worked by his 
httle daughter, the Princess Alexandra, probably to 
show him how she was learning Enghsh, and her 
death when eight years old was his life long sorrow; 
and some of her garments he had kept in this same 
room, where they are yet. And from the depth of 
that sorrow he had put the book mark, as its natural 
association, with his Bible, and so incidentally 
revealed the depth of his own estimate of the Bible 
and of prayer. It all added a special interest to the 
grave of the httle Princess Alexandra as we saw it 
among the tombs of the Czars in the Cathedral of 
St. Peter and St. Paul. But it gave a new point of 
view, especially in contrast with that apt to be 
suggested by the visit to the magnificent modern 
Cathedral of the Resurrection. This was built in 
memory of this same Alexander II. and juts out 
into one of the principal streets in order to cover the 
pavement where the nihihst bomb, that cut the Czar 
nearly in two, exploded. With all the grandeur 
of the Cathedral in its lavished gold and silver and 
precious marbles and stones, there is a grim fas- 
cination in looking down under the rich canopy and 
seeing the indentations made in the blocks of stone 
by the bomb. As one goes away from that, the 
Czar idea is apt to clothe itself in those terror terms 
of tyranny and anarchy, for which in the centuries 
there has been only too much claim. But with the 
aproach to the man, back of the ruler, in Alexander 
II. through that Bible and its heart-to-heart revela- 
tions in one instance at any rate is to rectify the Czar 
ideal. It is a case of the Bible over against the bomb. 
And we remember it was Alexander II. who emanci- 
pated the millions of serfs in the very year (1861) of 
the beginning of the war which resulted in the later 
proclamation of freedom of our Lincoln. And that 

[145 J 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

very room has been carefuUy presented in all its 
furnishings for over thirty years since he was carried 
to it and died there March 13, 1881. From Phila- 
delphia days there come to mind conversations with 
ex-Governor Gurtin of Pennsylvania, who had been 
Ambassador to Russia in some of the years of the 
reignof Alexander II., in which he spoke of a secre- 
tiveness of methods at the Russian Gourt which 
seemed to him, as to others, sinister. This Bible 
episode, upon which we have dwelt, has a bearing 
all of its own upon that better kind of reserve which 
does not wear its rehgion upon the sleeve. 

Another special interest in going the well known 
roimd of St. Petersburgh, which included the points 
associated with Peter the Great, the Monastery of 
St. Alexander Nevsky, with its famed Ghoir of 
Monks, the meeting place of the Douma, Gathedral 
of our Lady of Kazan, etc., was the hope of finding 
Bishop Nicholas, with whom the Saunterer had 
cordial relations when Bishop Nicholas Uved in San 
Francisco as Bishop of Alaska and the Aleutian 
Islands. He is now a member of the Holy Governing 
Synod of Russia and among the most eminent 
ecclesiastics of the empire. He did not happen to 
be in town at the time of our visit, and there was no 
opportunity to revive the memories of the days in 
the early nineties when there were such pleasant 
interchanges as the invitation in 1894 to the Saun- 
terer to attend the services commemorative of the 
one hundredth anniversary of the estabhshment of 
the Russian Orthodox Mission in North America, 
and the attendance of Bishop Nicholas and two of 
his priests at our Ghristmas service in St. Peter's 
Ghurch, San Francisco. The great fire of 1906 
and removals have left now no vestige of the build- 
ings associated with either event but this happy 
memory. 

[146] 



MOSCOW 

THE FULL official title of the Catholic Church 
in Russia, as in Greece, is the Holy Orthodox 
Cathohc ApostoHc Oriental Church. The 
Saunterer has a card of Bishop Nicholas on 
which he is styled Bishop of the Russian Orthodox 
Church in the United States of America^ he having 
previously borne the title of Bishop of Alaska and 
the Aleutian Islands. And "for short" in America 
we very often speak of the Greek Church, This ver- 
satihty, not to say, utihty of names is suggestive. A 
Russian Churchman at any rate discloses no agitation 
about that particular matter. And we "episcopals," 
alas! are some of us in a quandary not to be dis- 
sembled now, to answer the very first question of our 
Catechism National-Churchwise! 

But Moscow to an American Churchman has 
some striking significance bearing upon cathohcity 
as a Church identification, whatever legal, local, 
loyal or late names it may be "commonly called." 
We remenber that Moscow was once a Patriarchate 
succeeding to the jurisdiction of Constantinople 
but that was so much of a "modernism" in that part 
of the most ancient Cathohc Church that it only 
began in 1582 and only lasted until 1721. We 
realize that since 1721 a one man power has been 
superseded by what is theoretically, at any rate, an 
ohgarchy in the Holy Governing Synod, which con- 
sists of twelve menibers with a Chief Procurator 
and more or less subject to the Czar. Something of 
the prestige of the one-time Patriarchate seems to 
have fingered in the importance of the office of 
what is now the Metropolitan of Moscow. And 
strong men like Philaret have filled it. 

[1471 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

Just here comes in an American point of contact, 
with an interest of its own to a San Francisco Chm-ch- 
man. At the General Convention of 1862, it was 
the late Rev. Dr. Thrall, then Rector of Trinity 
Ghm"ch, San Francisco, who offered a resolution, 
after he had called the attention of the Convention 
to the number of Christians of the Greek Church 
that had been coming to Cahfornia, looking to some 
message to the Russian Church touching more 
adequate spiritual provision for them. This Reso- 
lution led to the|appointment of a Commission on 
Ecclesiastical Relations and its subsequent corre- 
spondence with the Churches of the Orient. Mr. 
Ruggles, a prominent layman of New York, as a 
member of that Commission visited Philaret, Metro- 
pohtan of Moscow, in 1853, and so the enterprise of 
our San Francisco Dr. Thrall had something to do 
with the later promise of priestly services of that 
Communion in California and then indirectly to the 
later sending of the Russian Episcopate there. 
California Churchmen like to include this as another 
"pioneering" record to be accredited to the Pacific 
Coast to go with the first use in the territory of the 
United States of the Prayer Rook; the first fixing a 
Cathedral Seat in the American Church and some 
other "first things" of their Church forefathers. 
Rishop Nicholas, when in Cahfornia, had this called 
to his attention and said that he knew that Philaret, 
the Metropolitan of Moscow, had been instrumental 
in at first providing the ministrations of his Church 
for the members in Cahfornia. 

EngHsh Churchmen have paid their tribute to 
the position and influence of Philaret. Archbishop 
Maclagan made a special visit to his grave in 1897. 
Canon Liddon, in one of his letters, gives an inter- 
esting account of a visit to Philaret in 1867, at his 
country retreat at Troitska. The house was of the 

[148] 



4 



MOSCOW 

humblest description and very plainly furnished. 
The reception room had no carpet on the floor, and 
no papering on the walls — though he noted "a large 
print of Canterbury Cathedral" — with a prie-dieu 
and several Icons. Some of the points of the Enghsh 
Communion Service were discussed and the Metro- 
pohtan laid most stress of his criticism upon the 
absence from the Enghsh Liturgy "of a formal 
Invocation of the Holy Ghost upon the Sacramental 
Elements." Here again the great Ecclesiastic of 
Moscow touches upon a matter of precious import 
to an American Churchman as we in our Prayer 
Book by what are no less than great providences, 
through Cranmer's knowledge of Oriental Liturgies, 
through the non-jurors, through Scotland and 
through Seabury, have retained that very Invoca- 
tion, so contributory to right doctrine and worship, 
if our American Church will but give it its full 
appraisal. 

Suggestions of this sort Moscow made to the 
Saunterer. They may be somewhat technical and 
somewhat parsonical, but they were just as natural 
as it was for him to think of San Francisco's big 
fire when on the spot of Moscow's historic bm*ning. 
But our efficient guide Mr. Bethel Grundy — his 
name like his speech straightforward Enghsh amid 
Russian tongues and scenes not otherwise "under- 
standed" — saw to it that we missed none of the 
absorbing sight-seeing for which our time was only 
too hmited. "Sparrow HiU," with its extended 
drive through the city avenues and characteristic 
scenes of people and architecture, gave us the "bird's- 
eye" — perhaps one could be forgiven for saying 
"sparrow eye's" — view of the city. Napoleon is 
said to have caught his first vision of it from that hill 
and we can readily conceive it was more enamoring 
than some of his later views, if not equal to them in 

[149] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

warmth. An elevation in the KremHn is also said 
to have been used by him as a "coign of vantage." 
The well-known Kremlin, "a triangle about two 
miles in circuit, filled with palaces, churches, arsenals 
and museums," had so much of an "exposition," all 
of its own, that it would seem as if the school children 
who were visiting it in large numbers — this we were 
told a new departure to famiharize the children with 
their history, and not a bad idea — ^would grow old 
before they could take it all in. That we were in a 
country of careful scrutiny and identification was 
made manifest by the necessary KJremHn "Permit" 
and the examination of passports by the poHce 
authorities both on arriving and leaving hotels. We 
noted a great gilded state carriage presented to a 
contemporary Russian ruler by Queen EHzabeth of 
England, and crowns, coronation robes, armor, coins, 
Icons, reHcs, council chambers, historic staircases, 
galleries — to say nothing of the vast buildings con- 
taining them, and the "big bell" — would have kept 
us there yet, if we had tried to give them all the 
attention they deserved. 

The pictures in the Kremlin and in the museum 
elsewhere were many of them "sombre and triste'' 
as another traveler has described them. One of 
Ivan the Terrible, in remorse over his son whom in a 
moment of passion he had murdered, has about it 
the very fascination of horror. We also saw some 
of Verestchagin's gruesomewar scenes which were 
exhibited in America many years ago, now with the 
added tragic association of the death of the artist 
in one of the Russian war ships sunk by a torpedo in 
the war with Japan, when he with all on board went 
down almost instantly. Such realistic portrayal of 
war is in itself a very peace promotion. Then with 
Moscow itself standing out so strikingly in history 
as an object lesson of the ravages of war by flame 

[150] 



MOSCOW 

and suffering and of Napoleonic humiliation as was 
the byword among the Russian people by the two 
Generals — General Famine and General Frost — there 
is a most costly and striking church to mark con- 
trastively, a memorial of the relief through the 
French evacuation and the besom of fire. 

So after all the Church interests which center in 
Moscow, of the sort to which the Saunterer has in 
part referred were those closer and more agreeable 
to finger upon. Though the Saunterer was in mufti 
and presented no letters and had no communication 
with the Ecclesiastics, Philaret more than Napoleon 
and American Church rather than French conquest 
contacts with the Muscovian fife are the fonder 
memories of the Sauntering there. The dismal 
retreat of the French army was not so much in mind 
as the advance of relations with the Russian Church. 
Such memories foUow too the more happily those of a 
joint intercession with Bishop Nicholas at his 
Episcopal residence in San Francisco, in 1894, with a 
few of the clergy of both Churches present when the 
common Collect — A Prayer of St. Chrysostom in the 
Prayer Book, taken from the Third Antiphon of the 
Liturgy of St. Chrysostom — was used among other 
prayers said successively by the two Bishops. And 
another "eirenicon" is treasured in the Saunterer's 
fibrary, a copy of Blackmore's Doctrine of the Rus- 
sian Church "From Nicholas, Bishop of the Russian 
Orthodox Church in the United States of Amer- 
ica, in remembrance of 25 December, 1894." That 
was the Christmas Day — our Day of the Evangel 
of Peace — when Bishop Nicholas and two of his 
Priests attended the service in St. Peter's Church, 
San Francisco. The book itself has — may it be with 
true prophecy as it is with true and significant his- 
tory, and especiaUy significant to our own American 
Scotch Liturgical fineage — the following inscription: 

[151] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

"To the Most Reverend, the Primus and the 
other Bishops of the Apostolic Church of Scotland, 
this volume is by their permission dedicated as to the 
only remaining successors and representatives of 
those British Bishops, who in the reign of Peter the 
First held a correspondence with the Russian Synod, 
a correspondence which was dropped on the death 
of Peter, with an assurance from the Imperial 
Government that it should be renewed at some 
future and more convenient opportunity." 



[152 



THE TRA^S-SIBERIAN TRIP 

THE outbreak of the dire Bubonic plague in 
Manchuria early in the year had for a time 
seemed to prohibit our journey across Siberia. 
So virulent was it that in the central plague 
hospital at Harbin sixteen hundred plague patients 
were admitted; sixteen hundred died. The life of 
the noble young EngHsh medical martyr, Dr. Arthur 
Jackson, who, with every precaution taken, was 
stricken on a Tuesday and passed away the next 
evening, graphically portrays the power of the pesti- 
lence, while it marks the introduction of modern 
methods to meet it in a way to evoke from the 
Chinese Viceroy an epitaph for Jackson's work, 
"His heart was in the saving of the world." And 
in the rapid transformations of modern China, 
though it may not stand out as conspicuously before 
the world as some other phases like those of assuming 
the repubhcan form of government, probably no 
change is more significant than that of the revolution 
of ideas of deahng with this dread disease that was 
effected by Jackson and other representatives of 
modern skill in that plague. The antiquated healing 
methods were so steeped with superstition, and so 
sure to spread rather than to check infection that the 
marvel of the acceptance of the new order is well 
exploited in the very fact that before the middle of 
the year any menace to the traveler was entirely 
neghgible. Accordingly at Moscow we duly en- 
trained for our Trans-Siberian journey as we had 
hoped. The best through express, called the "Train 
de Luxe," leaves Moscow once a week on Wednesday 
evenings and the station showed that it was an 
"event," especially the hubbub around the luggage 

[153] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

room. Our guide saved us unnecessary delay, 
some Jof our fellow passengers barely catching the 
train — others losing it altogether. Once aboard in 
spacious compartments of the International Sleeping 
Gar and with through dining car provision, there 
was every promise of comfort for the journey and we 
found this promise well sustained. With traditions 
of monotonous days before us over the great Asiatic 
"Steppes," we had laid in a good store of reading 
matter, some of it retrospective of the Holy Land 
and the lands we had visited. That gave us occupa- 
tion and sorting and better shaping of our Sauntering 
impressions, somewhat hke the developing of nega- 
tives. And withal some napping brought the pro- 
verbial "nature's sweet restorer" after strenuous 
sightseeing, just as the Pullman of our American 
Overland trip somewhat serves as a sanitarium for 
tired brain and body. 

But the Saunterer was quite pleasantly surprised 
to find, in a first experience of it certainly, that with 
all of the thirteen days of the journey from Moscow 
to Shanghai — and about ten of them almost contin- 
uously in the cars — ^there was really no sense of 
ennui. To begin with our train load was a "human 
document" in itself, with the jumble of nationahties 
and languages represented. High Russian Army 
officers, railroad officials and mining engineers; 
Chinese returning from EngHsh Universities, French 
nobihty, Enghsh clerks going to positions in China, 
American missionaries bound to Korea, we knew 
of, not to mention many other varieties not classified. 
One could understand the curiosity if also the 
"ghouHsh glee" of that suggestion made by some- 
body that it would be an enlivening experiment to 
set loose a sufficient quantity of red pepper in a full 
dining car in order to produce at least the common 
language of a sneeze 1 Fortunately that demon- 

[1541 



THE TRANS-SIBERIAN TRIP 

stration of one utterance of an everywhere used 
"Volapuk" was not attempted. There was time 
for forming many agreeable acquaintances, among 
them a soldierly young Russian staff officer, Captain 
George Phippoff, going to report to his General. 
He had been in many engagements of the war 
between Russia and Japan and was courteous and 
helpful to us throughout in our ignorance of the 
country and the tongue. Our conversation naturally 
drifting to the agency of our ex-President Roosevelt 
in the bringing about the Peace between Russia and 
Japan, there was an emphasis of disapproval for 
which the Saunterer was not altogether prepared, 
evincing a Russian sentiment of regret that the war 
was discontinued just when it was, as the plan and 
beUef was that Russia would have worn out Japan 
in the end. 

Rut, added to the "Cosmopohs" aboard, the 
outlook on the countries through which we passed 
was far more varied than we had supposed. Of 
course there was a sameness about the great plains 
and forest margins of the track but the first morning 
after our night start showed us fields attractive for 
their verdure, then the second night carried us into 
the Ural Mountains. Though we could only see 
the fights of Zlatoust, a town mirrored in dayfight in 
a large lake, it brought a sense of human companion- 
ship in the isolation of the mountains, and the morn- 
ing afforded us something fike our familiar home 
Sierra "Gape Horn" outlook. Not far from that 
mountedn village stands the marble column marking 
the frontier between Europe and Asia and soon the 
Siberian trip began. As we whizzed past one small 
village, the monotony of its fife was at the moment 
giving place to the excitement of a conflagration, 
as six of the houses were in flames forking high and, 
with the thatched roofs, the whole village seemed 

[155] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

threatened, the inhabitants naturally resembling a 
disturbed anthill in their running here and there. 
The snap-shot of such a scene as of a freight wreckage, 
of which there came a glimpse, conjured up a whole 
budget of curiosity as to the sequel, but the passing 
glance from the car window as is often the tourist's 
experience could only leave the sense of contact of 
sympathy with the human unknowns and never-to- 
be-known. 

At Irkutsk there is a change of trains, with the 
gratification of a fresh car and the convenience of 
merely passing across a narrow platform from the 
compartments occupied from Moscow to correspond- 
ing compartments in the waiting train. In the 
earlier years of the rgdlroad, pending the completion 
of some difficult engineering work around the lake 
near there, passengers were transported part of the 
way by other means, in the winter going over the 
ice. Now the work of double tracking the road was 
in evidence at many points. And as a reminder of 
our association of Siberia with shivering, one place 
was called to our attention as having the name of 
"Winter" from its reputation of being the coldest 
spot in Siberia, the thermometer sometimes plunging 
to fifty-three below zero. As we passed through some 
of the less populated sections we noted Guard Houses 
at frequent intervals, a sentinel at each one standing 
at "attention" in deference to the passing train. 
We were told that these were necessary as protection 
against roving bandits who had occasionally "held 
up" trains in the most approved "Jesse James" 
fashion. 

On the ninth day we reached Harbin and then 
changed for Chang-Chun where again we changed to 
the Japanese South Manchurian Railroad and to 
a train which, locomotive, Pullmans, and all, was 
made in America. One of our fellow travelers, 

[156] 




"Catching a Tartar" 

He "looked" the Tartar, but by due diplomatic approadi softened into 
this "looking pleassuit please.' 



THE TRANS-SIBERIAN TRIP 

representing an American Locomotive Company, 
said he had sold nearly two hundred locomotives to 
the Japanese in 1908, but that they were soon to 
undertake their own manufacturing of them. After 
a comfortable night's ride the Saunterer rose early 
to see something in passing of Moukden, the place 
of fierce struggles in the Russo-Japanese war, and in 
the early afternoon of the same day Dalney was 
reached and the long railway journey of nearly 
fifty-five hundred miles was ended. 

Not the least educational and enjoyable feature 
of the transit was the opportunity to note the suc- 
cessive types of inhabitants — Russian, Tartar, Mon- 
gohan and Japanese. The stops at stations were 
frequent and long enough for "getting a breath of 
fresh air," some exercise and sights of the people 
who were generally thick around the stations. 
There were, too, the usual trinket and table supply 
vendors, though not importunate. In the Ural 
Mountains there were at very reasonable rates 
souvenirs of the mines, black iron candlesticks and 
the hke, which especially appealed to the passengers. 
At one place two playful kittens were purchased by 
a juvenile passenger, and she thereafter had no 
apparent monotony of the way. Coy children stood 
about with bouquets of wild flowers for sale. But it 
would be difficult to say whether the people who 
stared at the passengers, or the passengers who 
could not but be absorbed in the motley dress and 
unwonted countenances of the bystanders found the 
greater curiosities. A Tartar type of man especially 
attracted the attention of the youngest member of 
our party and she was proceeding to "snap" him, 
when she heeded paternal advice based upon the 
peril of "catching a Tartar," etc., and the ap- 
parently sinister countenance of that particular 
party. The advice was that his consent should first 

[1571 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

be duly secured before taking his picture. Our 
good Russian officer friend soon interviewed him 
and lo! we found what injustice had been done him 
by the result which is exhibited here. The face 
relaxed with a most assuming pride of posing. 

Then it would be difficult, even if it could have 
been caught in a photograph, to convey the animation 
of the scene at Harbin, when it seemed as if hundreds 
of Chinamen were in a stampede for a waiting emi- 
grant train. The chattering, the lugging of in- 
numerable nondescript bundles, the pell-mell of 
pushing these bundles into the car windows, the 
dragging of excited children and the general throb 
of panicy hfe which fairly shook the cars was a 
diversion from which one had to tear himself away to 
get time to look after his own belongings and reser- 
vations. 

The anniversary of the Saunterer's Consecration 
came about this time, and he rather envied the use of 
a Russian Church Car which he saw en route, sur- 
mounted with its small domes and crosses and bell. 
But the day brought with its associations of twenty- 
one years ago also those of a year ago with its service 
in the Pro-Cathedral and its great surprise of noble 
thought for the funds of the Diocese and of the fine 
and generous forecasting for this veiy world-trip. 



[158 



SHANGHAI AKD THEREABOUTS 

DALNEY — sometimes called Dairen — was Rus- 
sia's hope for an ice-free port and terminus 
of the Trans-Siberian Railway thoroughfare 
to the waters of the Yellow Sea and Pacific 
Ocean. A long lease of the territory thereabouts, 
including Port Arthur, had been secured from China. 
A city was carefully planned as one would prepare 
blue prints for a modern house, with a civic center, 
fine roadways radiating on something of a spider- 
web projection, with due provision for pubHc gardens 
and handsome buildings. An enormous excavation 
was made to enable the railway on its lower grade of 
approach to pass through the center of the town 
directly to the substantial wharves, and spanning 
the excavation is a great bridge of three noble arches 
which is in itself a true architectural feature. Rus- 
sia had spent well on towards a score of millions of 
dollars in converting a fishing village into a modern 
city in the six years from 1898 to 1904, when at the 
breaking out of the war with Japan, Japan instantly 
seized Dalney as a ready-made base — ^just the 
opportune spot with its excellent harbor and strategic 
advantages, and could not have been in better posi- 
tion if it had aU been the preparation for the war on 
the part of Japan itself. The bitterness of the loss 
to Russia must have been something like that of 
Galgiis to Queen Mary of England as she said, "When 
I am dead Calais wiU be found written on my heart." 
It was an especial privilege to find there the 
services of the EngHsh Church, and the project for 
a worthy church and chaplain's house adjacent to 
buildings for the Enghsh Representative on one of 
the principal blocks around the civic center. 

[1591 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

Leaving Dalney on the comfortable steamer, we 
were soon well out in the Yellow Sea and in passing 
saw the peaks near the battle-scarred Port Arthm*. 
One interest of the voyage was to pass the Chinese 
Junks looking to the unnautical voyager anything 
but "ship-shape," and suggesting the danger of 
swamping in turbulent seas, though skilfully handled 
and with the great eye at the prow explained in that 
classic utterance of the Chinese navigator: "No 
have eye — ^how can see ?" And is there not some- 
thing in this akin to that "I will guide thee with 
Mine eye" of the Psalmist — some remote psycholo- 
gical connection between the placing that emblem on 
the Junk's bow with, say, that great eye in rich 
mosaic which looked down from the center of the 
dome of the Chapel of Stanford University before 
the earthquake demoHshed it ? 

About noon the second day we reached Shanghai 
after a morning run up the great river from Wu 
Sung, which afforded many novel scenes for an 
Occidental and a Kodak. "Our Own Missionary" 
awaited us on the wharf with a representative 
of the American Church Mission to help us with our 
luggage and we were soon "shanghaied" in a way 
to redeem that word from any and all of its un- 
toward associations. 

Leaving the many happy memories of the mission- 
ary side of our visit in China for more specific and 
later noting, we shall simply jot down here some of 
the impressions of Chinese life in general as we had 
opportunity to see it in its city aspects in Shanghai 
and other large centers of population, and of country 
fife on our journey ings by various kinds of trans- 
portation through the rural parts. 

The first aquaintance with the jinrickisha seemed 
to the Saunterer to be a singularly suggestive intro- 
duction to things Chinese. The vehicle, as has been 

[160] 




B i^o B erg 5 as s tt 
O-* B B 2 » 5 a a 



■r 



SHANGHAI AND THEREABOUTS 

claimed, may have been first a sort of "Yankee 
invention" of an American missionary, but if so, 
he proved his shrewdness by hitting upon the very 
thing for the environment both in Japan and China. 
To have a human before you in the traces is to come 
immediately to a reaHzation of that which seems so 
much an anomedy everywhere that men are cheaper 
than horses. To have two wheels is in evidence that 
everywhere a minimum scale of economies is the 
vogue except where there is the one wheel of the 
barrow for a still simpler theory of transportation. 
To have to personally wrangle over a paltry fare, 
lest you demoralize the market and scale up expecta- 
tions to extravagance, is a reminder that big adjust- 
ments in the labor question are to loom up in future 
chapters of a Chinese forward movement. And 
when you see the houseboat man swaying his 
sweep hour after hour, night and day, and when 
your chairman as he lifts the poles to his shoulders, 
gives a sort of preliminary shudder and contorts his 
face, and note the relays of men substituted for 
animals in common heavy drayage, it all seems to 
typify that one vast phase of Chinese life. Prof. 
Ross quotes from a waterman who, when reproached 
for leaving a sick comrade to die on the river bank, 
said " Yan to meng ping'' — "Many men, life cheap." 
Few reflections upon Chinese hfe are more common 
than this, and yet is there any impression which is 
more vital to China in its challenge to a progressive 
civiHzation ? A census of humanity where the 
census itself is almost the lowest and ^ most de- 
preciated item on the racial inventory^nstl And 
yet one of their own poets says: 

"There yet is man — 

Man the divinest of aU things, whose heart 

Hath known the shipwreck of a thousand hopes, 

Who bears a hundred wrinkled tragedies 

Upon the parchment of his brow." 

[161] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

And there was the marvelous prescience of Con- 
fucius in the saying that "Man must be prepared 
to wait a hundred generations after him for the 
coming of a man of perfect divine nature." Would 
anything fulfil that prophecy more strikingly than to 
read in great changes now going on — more of them 
in the last ten years, it has been sadd, than in the 
previous ten centuries — ^the new appraisal of life 
for the four hundred millions of the Empire, by the 
standard of Him who said, "I am come that they 
might have life and that they might have it more 
abundantly." 

There is a marked difference of physique and 
stature as there is of dialect between various pro- 
vinces, and just as our San Francisco Chinamen for 
the most part speak the dialect of Canton and can- 
not easily understand that of Shanghai, so the 
typical man of Shanghai seems to be taller and more 
robust in appearance than in some other provinces. 
And the Saunterer was pleased to see here and there 
marks of a saving sense of humor. The Chinese 
railway was evidently still a good deal of a curiosity 
to the people, both in their flocking around the 
stations and gazing at the tourist specimens and in 
their swarming patronage of the trains. And one 
young Chinaman who was boldly showing his 
famiharity with the new-fangled cars had seated 
himself, while the tr£un was stiU, on the round handle 
of the brake. Deftly up behind him came a mis- 
chievous companion and tied his queue to the handle 
with a denouement that showed no lack of the fun- 
loving element. And there is like evidence in the 
story of the tailor who, having made a stole for a 
clergyman after a pattern given him, itemized it on 
the bill as: "to makee one necktie." The very grin 
on a Chinaman's face, while it may be inscrutable, 
may have in it possibilities of this sense of humor to 

[162] 



SHANGHAI AND THEREABOUTS 

count not a little in race re-habilitation. It cer- 
tainly is more than the "grin without the cat" of 
Alice's exploits in Wonderland. 

A visit to a great silk miU — called a Filature — 
gave the opportunity to observe the facility with 
which Chinese men, women and children can take to 
modern machinery and again started one thinking 
as to what will happen when a wide-spread manufac- 
turing consciousness comes to the Repubhc as it 
imdoubtedly will. And the superseding of the Chin- 
ese houseboats by steam launches on the crowded 
rivers, and the beginning of the so peremptorily 
needed sanitary improvements, and the keenness 
about learning modern mihtary and naval science, 
and even a racial taste of modern luxuries and 
extravagancies are all there before the eyes of one 
who goes about at all in China. He would be a bold 
visuaHst indeed who would try to see ahead a half- 
century in such a transformation act as is now taking 
place in that hitherto lagging land. 

As the cooHes carrying you in your chair trot 
along through the narrow lanehke streets of say 
such an interesting city as Wusih, the forward run- 
ners give a "toot-Kke" warning to those in the 
street and if they do not heed it they are quite un- 
ceremoniously jammed against the side shops. It 
is a sort of parable of the way old China must be 
getting out of the way for New China. 

We have not touched upon phases of life of the 
foreign element in Shanghai. On the spacious athletic 
grounds you can see almost every kind of Western 
game. We saw two baseball matches between nines 
from an American war vessel and resident foreigners. 
And in homes, shops, modern city appHances, includ- 
ing even the administration of part of the city itself 
(a principal hotel is the "Astor House"), Western 
ways are there for weal or for woe. 

[1631 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

That contact may be for weal is the high oppor- 
tunity and call for modern civiHzationaries — ^if we 
may coin a word substitute for missionaries. And 
that name of a notable suburb of San Francisco 
stands for one — Anson BurHngame, in whom as an 
American citizen and representative we may take 
just pride as a protagonist for this very thing. We 
recall that when China first awoke to the necessity 
of adjusting itself by treaties to the outside world 
which it had before somewhat disdained, it chose 
BurHngame, the American Ambassador, and placed 
in him imphcitly the powers of a sort of Universal 
Ambassador as "Envoy to Foreign Powers," by 
which he had already negotiated treaties with the 
United States, England, Denmark, Sweden, Holland 
and Prussia and was in the process of making one 
with Russia, when he died in St. Petersburgh in 
1870. Professor Williams' recent "Life of Anson 
BurHngame" should bring greater appreciation of 
the one who, when banqueted at the old Palace Hotel 
in San Francisco in 1868, was toasted as "the son of 
the youngest and representative of the oldest Govern- 
ment." Strange whirligig is it now which might 
reverse the toast and speak of a son of the oldest 
RepubHc and representative of the youngest I 



164 



CHINESE MISSIONARIES 
AT WORK 

IF WE could phrase all skepticism, not to say 
cynicism, about missionaries in China in such 
a question as "Can any good thing come out 
of foreign missions?" — the best rejoinder that 
the missionaries themselves could make would be 
the old famihar "Gome and see." The Saunterer 
could quote evidence of this in abundance. In 
recent years, for example, a large representative 
body of Pacific Coast citizens made a trip to the 
Orient in the interest of better commercial relations. 
Many of them had httle knowledge of or use for 
missionary enterprise there. Incidental discussions 
of the matter on the voyage over disclosed from some 
very positive views of disapproval and distrust of 
the whole missionary proposition. They went and 
saw. To a man on their return they were brought 
to a different mind and two of the leaders among 
them, one an ex-president of the Chamber of Com- 
merce of San Francisco, and president of a large 
steamship line, and the other a high bank official 
of Los Angeles, have made a joint statement pub- 
lished in the Spirit of Missions of June, 1913, which 
is one of the most effective campaign documents for 
missions of recent circulation. They say distinctly 
that "We have heard men soundly denouncing 
missions and missionaries, who, when questioned as 
to details and particulars, had to confess they knew 
nothing of the subject." They affirm that the 
source of information to one who would know the 
truth should be from those who have "studied the 
question," "have been on the ground" and have 
"investigated it first hand." "We cMm," say the 

fl65l 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

writers, Gapt. Robert Dollar of San Francisco and 
Mr. W. H. Booth of Los Angeles, "to be of this 
latter class." Then they give their deliberate judg- 
ment that the work as they saw it "has demonstrated 
its value and this demonstration calls for continued 
and augmented effort. The work should be en- 
couraged and it should be supported. From every 
point of view it commands admiration and devoted 
encouragement." And another of our older leading 
business men of San Francisco put it to the Saun- 
terer in this utilitarian way: "The great American 
corporations doing business in China could well 
afford to pay the salaries of all the missionaries 
simply as a business investment for the incidental 
advance agencies they constitute for the marketing 
of their products." While the missionaries Chris- 
tianize and civiHze they prepare the way for the 
demand for the commodities of civilization. And 
we may quote, too, Prof. Ross's words in his most 
interesting ''Changing Chinese:'' 

"The most penetrative Western things in China are the 
Gospel, Kerosene, and Cigarettes, and I am glad that as between 
hght, heat and smoke the prophets of hght got into the comitry 
first. These interior folk gather their first impressions of our 
race from those who want to make converts rather than those 
who want to make money" (page 273). 

The Saunterer quotes this distinctly lay testimony 
that has come to him directly out of much that might 
be cited in order to prove that his own impressions 
are not the mere "special plea" of the parson. But 
fortunately there seems to be coming over the public 
mind something of a "back-number" view of cheap 
jibes about foreign missions. Thoughtful people 
do not gather their impressions of them from fear- 
some "comic" supplements which caricature the 
foreign missionary, lean, lank and top-hatted, stand- 
ing before a caldron with a cannibal king calmly 

[166] 



CHINESE MISSIONARIES AT WORK 

surveying the captive to see whether after all the 
lack of rotundity in physique justifies the trouble 
of cooking! And treaty port gossip of missionary 
infirmities no longer stays honest effort to get into 
the heart of the work itself. 

And that it is real work, work for racial progress, 
work for civilization, work profoundly contributory 
to the help of the business man and the statesman as 
well as work for God, the Saunterer will try to show 
some of the reasons for a belief that is in hun. 

The two phases of the work as he saw it were 
naturally those of the institutional and those of the 
pastoral sort. And of the institutional much could 
be wTitten, of the hospital efficiency and its most 
ready point of approach to the people, of the noble 
service and sacrifice on the part of medical mission- 
aries who rehnquish promise of modern facifities 
and large remunerative practice at home to serve 
often under Hmitations of appHances and with a 
salary barely sufficient for ways and means. Much 
too could be said of the devotion to and the success 
in Primary Education. But as a fair sample of ac- 
comphshment we can only pick out one institution 
for these jottings and that is St. John's University, 
Jessfield, Shanghai. And to begin with, nothing 
but the actual "seeing of the eye" can afford the 
worthy impression of what the Church has in the 
way of establishment in the group of buildings and 
spacious grounds associated with the University. 
Photographs there are in abundance of the Pro- 
Cathedral, University Buildings, Girl's School, Hos- 
pital, Bishop's House, President's House and Pro- 
fessors' and Staff Houses, but no photograph the 
Saunterer has ever seen, and no description has ever 
conveyed to him, that effect of "Good Estate of 
buildings which so visuafizes standing and sohdity." 
But the Saunterer was soon introduced to the Uni- 

[167] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

versity and other life in the building, which is the 
thing of real consequence. Of the warm hospitahty 
to him and his from one and all, its personal side 
he will not attempt to speak. Suffice it to say that 
it is treasured among the happiest memories of the 
world trip. And the athletic life of the University 
was in evidence in finals of tennis which the students 
were playing when the Saunterer had his first view 
of the campus, the cups and other trophies, won in 
contests with other universities, the "good form" 
of the young Chinamen and the general eur of man- 
hness. Perhaps one is not quite prepared to find 
the love of baseball, football, as well as of tennis, 
thanks to good training, so well developed. 

" Commencement Day," however, was the most 
absorbing exhibit of the university procedure. It 
strikingly betokens the fact that a revolution had 
come over educational interests in China fully as 
far reaching as the revolution in government. 
The contrast between what to all intents and pur- 
poses was like the graduation and campus of an 
American college and the old cell Imperial hterary 
examinations and degrees of the scholar class, is 
fully as marvelous as any other change that has 
come over China in its recent epochal transformation 
acts. Families and friends of the students were 
there to the number probably of a thousand, making 
a briUiant spectacle on the lawns under a sunny sky. 
After the opening prayer of the Commencement 
Exercises, by Bishop Graves, there was an Enghsh 
Essay on "What Liberal Education Means," then 
a Chinese Oration on "Monotheism," then another 
English Essay by a graduate in the School of Medicine 
on "Scientific Medicine in China." The ex- Ambas- 
sador to the United States, H. E. Wu Ting Fang, 
made an address in Chinese followed by one in 
English by the Saunterer. The Degrees were then 

[168] 




Laying of Cornerstone of Gatechist School, Wusih, China 

A ceremony with a California "atmosphere" in China. The trowel was 
of the peculiar Chinese use — all of iron, something like a butcher's cleaver. 



CHINESE MISSIONARIES AT WORK 

conferred by President Pott, who also made an 
address and presented certificates and awarded 
Honors. The dignity and atmosphere of the whole 
occasion could not fail to impress deeply any one 
who would "come and see." The graduates of St. 
John's have in their own careers signally accredited 
the University, both in China and elsewhere. One, 
for instance, occupies a high position in the new 
Government. And of those who go to the United 
States and European universities to complete their 
education, one took a De Forest Medal at Yale and 
another was the editor of the college paper at 
Columbia. The Saunterer met one at the table of 
President Pott who had just returned from his 
graduation at Yale and who somewhat sardonically 
remarked "I can get along with your straight Ameri- 
can but it is your slang that trips me." He then 
described his experience during a Yale vacation in a 
small American town when, entering a store, he 
noticed a dog going out as he opened the door and 
hearing the storekeeper as he went up to the counter 
say "dog-gone-it," he began to apologize, thinking 
the emphasis of the expression was due to his allowing 
the canine to escape. It was when the storekeeper 
showed surprise at his explanation that he reahzed 
that there was no bearing upon any culpabiHty on 
his part and it was only just a "slang word." 

Another institution in which naturally the Saun- 
terer had an especial interest was the newly started 
Shanghai School for Catechists at Wusih. By the 
kind consent of Bishop Graves, the Saunterer was 
privileged to lay the corner stone of its first building, 
which with the residences associated with it was 
provided in good part from contributions secured by 
the Rev. John W. Nichols, its head, when on his 
furlough in the United States, and no small part of 
the contributions came from California. 

[169] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

The work of shepherding a missionary congre- 
gation was well seen in St. Peter's, Sinza, Shanghai 
and in Wusih, the former showing a center estab- 
hshed some years and the latter one of the new 
points. Both have their Compounds with staffs of 
workers, men and women, foreign and native. At 
Wusih, where the Rev. Mr. Mosher and Mrs. 
Mosher have carried the mission through some of the 
pioneering conditions with the Hmitations, not to say 
privations, that belong to them, the Compound is 
filling out with substantial buildings, the last of 
which is a handsome church building to be erected 
there. The process seems to be very much like that 
of winning the way of a congregation at home, 
interesting individuals sometimes by the healing 
art of the medical associate, sometimes by direct 
teaching and preaching, sometimes by gathering 
together the Httle children. Then when a body 
of worshippers is found, awaiting the quiet effect of 
"well doing," to impress the community and so 
"putting to silence the ignorance of foolish men," in 
reverence of worship and in fidehty of daily life, it is 
enough to say that there is what the old collect calls 
"Sufficient Success." And with that the mission- 
aries face the many problems and it seemed to the 
Saunterer are singularly "of good cheer." At first the 
work under Mr. Mosher had the only Christian 
Compound in Wusih. In Shanghai as at many other 
points various Christian bodies are well represented. 
It was the privilege of the Saunterer to meet Dr. 
Timothy Edwards, a Baptist missionary of many 
years' service in China, and a scholar well versed 
in its ancient rehgions. And at Holy Trinity Cathe- 
dral of the Church of England the Saunterer 
preached and had a glimpse of the noble missionary 
record of that church in China. And it all left him 
with the decided impression that he could in foro 

[1701 



CHINESE MISSIONARIES AT WORK 

conscientiae bear the strongest testimony on his part 
that the Chinese Missionary is, indeed, with patience 
and power at work and no mistake. And the oppor- 
tunity and zest of it all seems to be touching this 
chivaJric sense of our young American manhood and 
womanhood more and more. There is the challenge 
of the very difficulties and the reward of realizing 
the help of the Holy Spirit to surmount them. 



171 



CHINESE MISSIONARIES 
AT PLAY 

*' m m / "7"hat! Should real missionaries play?" 

mm/ '^^^ ^*^^ ^^^^ somewhere, as an instinc- 
%^/ tive challenge to the above title, in a 
T ▼ popular conception of what a missionary 
should be. That, however, is probably not very 
persistent nowadays, and is rather a sort of survival 
of a view of the ministry at large suggested by Sam 
Lawson of Parson Lothrop in Mrs. Stowe's " Oldtown 
Fireside Stories" — that parsons go around spending 
all their time without a let-up in ruminating "on 
Jerusalem and Jericho, and them things that minis- 
ters think on." Even the old Levites and priests, to 
say nothing of the Good Samaritan himself, had their 
relaxations in journeying between Jerusalem and 
Jericho, when their minds had for their tonic absentee 
experiences; and certainly the modern place of the 
hohday for any worker who works, in making him 
the better worker when he works, needs no apologist. 
An extension of the old Christian Father's caution 
"Not to make vacation a vocation" that I beheve 
would find acceptance among all healthy-minded and 
able-bodied folk, might be, "but make a sane, salu- 
brious vacation part of vocation." 

One who visits China in the summer months has 
the opportunity to see how the Christian missionaries 
of all names manage this. And if the people at home 
can take a just pride and satisfaction — as they 
certainly can — ^in knowing how faithfully our repre- 
sentatives work, as reported from so many fields and 
by so many pens, the object of this article is to call 
attention to the sound, wholesome and so assuring 
way in which they betimes can play. An old Con- 

[172] 



CHINESE MISSIONARIES AT PLAY 

fucian maxim says: "The man of knowledge finds 
pleasure in the sea, the man of virtue finds pleasure 
in the mountains." Though I presume the mission- 
ary hohday seekers would not classify themselves 
on precisely the Confucian lines, still seashore and 
mountain find them grouped at various points in 
China, and out of China — as in Japan. Among the 
mountain resorts probably Kuhng and Mohkanshan 
are the most frequented. As a sojourner for some 
weeks at Mohkanshan — which is something over a 
hundred miles from Shanghai, in the Province of 
Chekiang — the writer has reason to beheve that 
in the life and spirit of the colony it is fairly typical 
of other points, though not as large in summer popula- 
tion as Kuhng with hke attractions. 

It would be easy to prolong the article beyond 
proper hmits with descriptions of the natural attrac- 
tions of the mountain and its overlook, with green of 
bamboo covered slopes sloping down to the green of 
rice fields in the plain. And the getting there, 
especially the house-boat and chair transportation 
amid characteristic Chinese rural scenes, to a new- 
comer add decidedly novel chapters of experience, 
and make one appreciate something of the task of 
bringing China more fully abreast of modern pro- 
gress. But we may take all these for granted as we 
note some features of the play-spell itself. 

Ample provision is made for good outdoor exer- 
cise. Besides a playground for the children there is 
a reservation for a pubhc park, which includes a 
swimming pool and tennis courts. The following 
lines from the Mohkanshan Bulletin for 1910-11 
catch the very poetry of motion of the deft racquet: 

" I see again the strenuous tribe in white 

Flitting across the deep-cut scar of brown: 
The felt-clad missiles fly to left and right 
And up and down." 

[173] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

"The deep-cut scar of brown" is something of a 
feat in making "crooked places straight" by excavat- 
ing a series of courts out of a steep mountain side. 
While learners are not lacking there, it would be 
interesting to know how many well-tried home 
university courts were represented. From one cot- 
tage at least Harvard, Stevens' Institute and Trinity 
were all in evidence. Mountain paths there were 
too in abundance, going to "Pagoda Peak" and 
elsewhere, to exercise knees as well-wonted to the 
bending for other upward look. 

Then the simple, happy home life in the cottages, 
most of which are perched on or near some command- 
ing ridge, has led to the formation of an admirable 
association of owners, which conserves the welfare 
and interest of the whole coromunity, while it serves 
the economy of building and hving and puts it within 
the very modest means of the average missionary to 
enjoy the privileges of the mountains. And the 
"puttering around" the cottage and lots, planning 
new additions and fixings here, and changes of path 
and shrubbery there,'^ affords the usual congenial 
day's doings for the cottage owner in his Httle barony. 

Singularly enjoyable, too, are the opportunities 
for companionship and conference, for many in their 
respective fields have an isolation from their fellow- 
countrymen and women and fellow-workers that is 
almost inconceivable to those who have never known 
it. A genuine social life pervades the colony, and 
besides the smaller groups of friends there are lawn 
parties, picnics, entertainments for young and old, 
participated in by the cottagers in general. 

A seemly church building occupies a central 
place, in which both prayer book and non-Hturgical 
services are held — ^the former under the auspices of 
the English bishop, in whose district the mountain 
is. Services are also held in the Chinese tongue for 

[ 174 ] 




House Boat, China 

Some of the Saunterers and their friends. The "houseboat" is all "first 

cabin," but the passenger list is not always confined to humans. The 

winding along the water ways and through the towns affords 

many opportunities of seeing the real China." 



CHINESE MISSIONARIES AT PLAY 

the native people. Besides the usual Sunday-school 
and Bible-class hours there are week-day services, a 
Monday Club, and each season lectures on the Bible 
or other sacred topics by visitors especially qualified. 
A public library, with good attention to the addition 
of new books, is much used. 

In such an environment it does not require much 
imagination on the part of the reader to fill in the 
picture of a hohday of the utmost benefit to those 
who make use of it. If at home, as we say, every busy 
man and woman likes to "get out of things for a 
while, " not only in order to find mental and physical 
rest, but to get perspective and think over the "day's 
work" quietly, to take in new ideas and new vision 
and find a fresh hold upon the duties of a particular 
post, how much more does the missionary in a foreign 
field, Kving in an atmosphere heavy with heathenism 
never able to get out of its mental miasma, while the 
very earnestness to deal with it, the very striving of 
the spirit within because it seems to be wholly given 
to idolatry, makes the sense of its close oppressiveness 
the keener — how much more does such an one need, 
and respond to, the change and resihency that the 
escape from it all for a while and the ozone of moun- 
tain air and outlook, and the fellowship of those of 
like mind and like hope, can give ? Who can tell how 
much Mohkanshan and hke places have to do with 
making better missionaries ? 

But the writer is sure that, judging from his own 
experience, a hohday at such a point might mean very 
much to any visitor from home. As one who has 
had some Uttle membership on Missionary Boards, 
local and general, he will make so bold as to confess 
to a strange fancy that it would gratify our Boards 
of Missionary Direction of all names of Christians 
almost as much to take a look at their missionaries 
at play as to see them at work. It would, I grant, 

fl75] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

be something novel at any given staid Board meeting, 
with brows knit over the customary pohcies and 
problems, to have read off from the docket anything 
hke "Matter of Board Muster at Mohkanshan." 
But would it not warm the cockles of the heart of 
every staunch Board man or woman of them, if they 
could adjourn for a spell to see, as recreation so 
pleasingly shows them, what a live, hearty, red- 
blooded, happy, cheery, sensible lot of young man- 
hood and womanhood they have on duty in China 
and elsewhere ! 

Some of them would surely, in pure exhilaration, 
be moved to take a hand at tennis themselves. 
We speak of "Young China" in its relation to the 
future of that great republic. We may well speak of 
"Young America" too in the forecast of results, as 
they in turn take up the noble work of our veterans 
and of those of many missionary nationahties. 

One of the strongest impressions it all made upon 
the writer was just that spirit of enterprise and hope- 
fulness in those holiday missionaries. At San Fran- 
sisco, through which many pass going and coming, 
he had constantly noted the characteristic optimism 
of foreign workers. At Mohkanshan the same trait 
was intensified. He felt curious to look into it a 
little. Conditions seemed favorable for securing 
some definite data. There were gathered there 
representatives of many Christian bodies. There 
were those working in varied fields and on special 
fines of missionary effort — medical, educational, 
evangefistic and pastoral. With the help of some of 
our young people the following question was widely 
distributed among those on vacation at Mohkanshan: 

A visitor, much interested in present phases of missionary 
work in China, and impressed with the fullness and variety of 
experience of the workers gathered here, would much appre- 
ciate it if you could see your way kindly to teU him on this sheet 

[1761 



CHINESE MISSIONARIES AT PLAY 

in a few words what from your personal standpoint seems, out 
of the experience of your particular field and sphere of service, 
to be the most hopeful feature of the work? 

The response was prompt and cordial, and extracts 
from the answers are appended. They speak for 
themselves of the reason for the hope that is in the 
Chinese work for Christ. They fall naturally under 
heads hke those we are accustomed to postulate of 
encouraging points at home, such as: that missions 
are showing a spirit of self-help; that they are pro- 
ducing a native Christianity which rings true in 
character; that they are acquiring a momentum of 
their own in native leadership and influence. 

I. 

THE MISSIONS ARE SHOWING A SPIRIT OF 
SELF-HELP. 

"The fact is that the Chinese Christians £U"e taking an 
increasing share of the financial responsibility. Seventy-five 
per cent of the Church members in our field are in self- 
supporting churches. Nearly all of our Christians in the smaller 
groups are giving generously to the support of the Gospel. 
Along with thig is a wiUingness to assume more responsibihty 
for discipHne, etc. In other words, progress toward a self- 
governing and self-supporting Church." 

"Some of our girls nearly support themselves in school by 
the use of needle and scrub-brush." 

"An increasing realization of personal responsibihty on the 
part of the native Church for the salvation of their own people 
as indicated in their: (1) Unprecedented activity in bearing 
witness to the power of the Gospel. (2) Their opening and 
support of new chapels, and (3) their increased contributions 
to all phases of Church Ufe." 

"The growing sense of responsibihty shown by our Chris- 
tians and their increasing wilhngness to take up the burden of 
Church support and extension." 

"A growing willingness on the part of the Chinese Church 
to get under the burden of evangeUzation, financial and other- 
wise; and less seeking after material benefits because of being 
identified with the Church or missionary." 

"The sale of tracts and Testaments is on the increase." 

[177] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

" More voluntary effort in evangelization among neighbors, 
friends and the community. The Church is becoming more 
independent and aggressive. It is partaking of the patriotic 
spirit and there is a spirit of self-support, self-government and 
self-propagation." 

"A growing spirit of independence on the part of the Chi- 
nese Christian teachers coupled with a wiUingness to assume 
responsibility." 

"A self-help department of our college to my mind will 
prove to be one of the greatest blessings for the poor but most 
worthy young men of our Christian Church." 

"Self-support and self-government is the most encouraging 
feature of the work in our field. We have one church in the 
country, the first member of which was baptized in 1902, that 
became self-supporting and self-governing in 1908. It has 
about one hundred and thirty members, and in these three 
years has grown stronger each year. Others are trying to 
follow its example." 

"Another hopeful thing is that meuiy of the yoimg men in 
the schools are giving themselves to the preaching of the Gospel, 
and nearly aU, even those who are not Christians, have the 
ambition to help others, to help their country, and in more or 
less a degree to five not for self. That is, the ideals of Christ 
are possessing China's young men, often unconsciously perhaps, 
but nevertheless in a way that will help greatly to bring in a 
new China, with love to God and love to man prominent." 

MOHKANSHAN 

(A mountain in the Province of Chekiang, China, where many missionaries 
of many Christian names spend their summer holidays.) 

"The mountains shall bring peace" — and Mohkanshan 
Is beautiful to them that publish peace. 
Who here find summer holiday's surcease — 
Christ-chieftain's highland missionary clan. 
From lowland stir and throng, Great Brother Man, 
Thy crowded hfe sought mountain heights' release, 
Peace passing understanding to increase 
For quick'ning power of hfe and work, Thy plan. 
Horizons of temptation round we scan. 
Thy mount of prayer made fiercest tempter cease. 
Thy sermon-mount Beatitude began 
As show'rs forecast their thunder-heads of fleece. 
Transfiguration Mount! O if we can 
In peace irradiate fill out fife's span! 

[178] 



CHINESE MISSIONARIES AT PLAY 

II. 

THEY ARE PRODUCING A NATIVE CHRISTIANITY 

THAT RINGS TRUE IN CHARACTER. 

"The desire to know the truth. Feeling that much of the 
old order is false they seem to me to want to make sure that the 
new is really true. I feel they do a great deal of independent 
thinking, yet are willing to be taught by capable people." 

"The attitude of the students to their courses of study, and 
of the Christians to their declaration of faith. Most of them 
are faithful and earnest." 

"The open-mindedness and attentive attitude of the people 
toward the Gospel. The great trouble now in meuiy places is 
to be able to seat the people who come to hear, where a few 
years ago it was very hard to get the people to come. I have 
been engaged a great deal the past year in tent meetings, and 
the people came by hundreds to almost every service. They 
seem anxious to know what this strange doctrine is." 

"The fact — illustrated by the life of my co-worker, the Rev. 

(a native clergyman) — that from such heathen 

surroundings a Christian Chinese ministry may be produced, 
showing as thorough consecration and self-sacrifice and unselfish- 
ness as one could find in the very best type of Christian ministry 
at home. The constant increase of the number of boys from 
our school turning to Christianity is proof of the power of such 
a Hfe." 

"Confidence on the part of our active Chinese Christians 
in the ultimate triumph of Christ in China," 

"An increasing willingness on the part of our Chinese 
helpers to rely upon the promises and power of God, and a 
corresponding distrust in merely human efi'orts." 

"The great majority of our graduates are fedthful to their 
Christian profession, many in trying situations." 

"The dissatisfaction of the people with their old life which 
impels them to seek something better. This is seen in my 
experience by the women's desire for education. Also high- 
class girls are daily going to and fro to school, while a few years 
ago they would not appear on the streets." 

" Seeing the eSect that Christ has had in the tramsformation 
and the gradual upbuilding into strong, attractive character of 
the Uves of some of our mediced students and young doctors, 
making them tell for Christ mightily." 

"The willingness of the people to Usten to the Word as we 
come in personal contact with them." 

[179] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

"The fearlessness of the people in the presence of their 
neighbors to acknowledge the truth and value of Christianity." 

"Some of the Christians I know; their good lives and their 
zeal for making Christianity known to others. Instances: the 

travelling tailor and reformed opium-smoker of , who 

teUs what great things God has done for him as he goes from 

house to house; the 'consecrated cobbler' of and many 

others. In and — the men's auxiharies bear all the 

expenses of preaching halls in two neighboring towns. At 

Church practically all the preaching hall and Sunday-school 
work is done by lay members of the congregation." 

"The courage and efficiency with which leaders undertEike 
their work." 

"The readiness of the Chinese to hear what the preachers 
of the Gospel have to say." 

III. 

THEY ARE ACQUIRING A MOMENTUM OF THEIR 
OWN IN NATIVE LEADERSHIP 
AND INFLUENCE. 

"Our native preachers are not ashamed of the Gospel of 
Christ, for they have made a comparatively recent discovery — 
that 'it is the power of God unto salvation.' This finds expres- 
sion in a new and aggressive evangelism through tent meetings 
and other missions." 

"A deepening sense of responsibility to serve and to help." 

"Opposition of the officials and other high-class Chinese, 
growing out of what they see and hear of the advancement of 
the Gospel in this section." 

"The multiplication of Christian homes. This is being 
effected by many agencies but chiefly, it appears to me, by the 
great influence of our Christian schools." 

"The exceptional abihty of the Chinese clergy, and the 
growing consciousness on their part of that ability; their willing- 
ness to assume responsibihty for preaching and the willingness 
of the people to hear. This is true in both city and country 
work, and finds especial iUustration in two series of tent meet- 
ings recently held in the city." 

" Our unsurpassed reUgion of the Kingdom of God on earth, 
the magnificent mind of the yeUow race and its readiness to 
receive the best that is known in the world." 

"Homes better because an accompUshed Christian woman 
is home-maker." 

[180] 




r» 5 1 g- ^ p 

I I s? 2.2 pw ? jr & 



CHINESE MISSIONARIES AT PLAY 

"The large number of young girls seen on our streets with 
unbound feet and with their school books in hand. Many of 
these are from the upper classes. It seems a sign of the eman- 
cipation of the womanhood of China. The education of the 
future mothers, and their ability to read the many religious 
books which must find their way into homes sooner or later." 

"The regular day-school as a nucleus for the Sunday- 
school." 

" In the educational work in which I am engaged we more 
often have boys wishing to become Christians who are of a class 
that will receive no material help from such an act, but rather 
the reverse. As time goes on a much finer type of Christian is 
produced, especially in the second generation. Also that 
clergy who have had the advantage of a thorough education 
have a zeal and love for their work, and an inspiration." 

"There is a spirit of enquiry in general more than ever 
before." 

"A deep conviction on the part of our Christians, students 
especially, that China's hope as a nation is in Christ." 

"(1) Two-thirds of our students are Christians. (2) The 
remainder are nearly all enquirers. (3) There is much less 
opposition and persecution on the part of parents and relatives 
than formerly. (4) The demand for students educated in 
mission schools by missions, business men and the govern- 
ment." 

"My work in China, extending over a period of thirty 
years, has been entirely along educational lines, with the end 
in view of preparing young men for Christian work. Alto- 
gether these years have been greatly blessed, and I have the 
satisfaction of seeing not a few young men engaged in the 
Lord's work." 

"One consecrated Chinaman is likely to be of far greater 
service in evangelization than many consecrated foreigners." 

"A clearer comprehension on the part of officials and 
people of the spiritual nature of the Church. The friendly 
responsiveness of the Chinese when assured of the disinterested- 
ness of the foreign missionary." 

We all know only too well the other side of the 
picture — the profound problems, the features that 
daunt rather than hearten, the myriad trials as well 
as the aids of faith. But none can possibly appre- 
ciate that more than these same workers, who are face 

[1811 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

to face with it aU on the far-flung frontier. It would 
be to their credit if they were simply intrepid, with 
Kttle or no glow of light-heartedness over results or 
outlooks. But one cannot read their words, to say 
nothing of minghng with the missionaries themselves, 
without having them seem hke very "cheers from 
the front." From the representatives of many 
Boards they come, from experts in all the leading 
lines of missionary work, covering times of service 
in China from later arrivals to a notable veteranship 
of forty years. A Mohkanshan missionary esprit du 
corps among Christians of many names is, too, in 
some respects even more significant of the working 
of the Holy Spirit, phalanxing men in the actued 
tramp of advance, than the memorable quickening 
of the Spirit itself at an Edinburgh Conference. They 
present many standpoints with their diversities of 
operations and of gifts, but the same Holy Spirit, and 
the note is that of Jubilate. Such sentiment out of 
the play-spell only shows, after all, how true they 
are to their work-spell. 



182] 



JAPANESE HARBOR 
IMPRESSIONS 

STEAMER-STOP impressions, like those from car 
windows, cannot be very far reaching, nor of 
much account in themselves, however novel 
or entertaining. But in these recent years the 
world has heard a good deal about Japan without 
going to Japan, and few who read can be without the 
desire to see the country if it only be to touch at some 
of its principal ports, with opportunities here and 
there to go ashore and make short trips inland. The 
first anchorage of our "Liner" was at Nagasaki, and 
if the miUtant sujffrage movement ever animates 
Japan, it is not difficult to predict that a prompt 
phase of it will be a strike of the women against 
coaHng the ships. The result would not only be the 
effect upon the ships bunkers, but the harbor would 
lose the decided novelty it is to most tourists to note 
the alacrity with which, by a sort of endless-chain- 
like process, coal is not so much "heaved" as lifted 
with a rhythm of basket motion from the barges to 
the ship bunkers as by deft instrumentation upon 
web-like scaffolding, in large part by woman's 
hands. Even in so prosaic a matter as coahng a ship 
the Nipponese seem to justify what their Dr. Nitobe 
quotes from Spencer as a phrase fitting their bent 
to make the simplest thing into an art, that "Grace 
is the most economical manner of motion." The 
coal heaving, as well as the leave taking of the 
Japanese at Yokohama and elsewhere, with their 
multipHed elaborate obeisances, betoken this. 

The trip through the inland sea was another 
experience of the country with the strangeness of 
gHding along in a great ocean-goer, as if in a river 

[183] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

steamboat, in one place the deep channel being only 
about one hundred and fifty feet wide. Passing 
views of the islands as well as of the shore and of 
near-at-hand life on the waters of fishermen and 
small craft had a zest in acquainting us with scenes 
really characteristic of a race with so many mari- 
time conditions. And the time will come when the 
"Powers" must "sit up and take notice" of the 
advantages in the commercial covering of the Pacific 
that a race will have with traditions for a merchant 
marine of its people so well wonted to the water. 

At Kobe there was a great opportunity to see the 
sights in jinrickishas nimbly drawn, among them the 
picturesque falls and the colossal statue of Buddha, 
not as old and not as large as that at Nara, but 
suggesting the nickname given by the Japanese to 
our Dr. PhilHps Brooks and his close friend the late 
Dr. McVickar, when they toured Japan. Both 
were of large physique, so much so that they con- 
stantly feared rebeUion — ^which however only once 
occurred — on the part of the diminutive jinrickisha 
men; and as they passed sometimes the Japanese 
children called out "Daibutzu," the word for their 
colossal statues of Buddha! In the harbor of Kobe 
was in evidence a bit of Japanese engineering skill, 
in that concrete had been soHdified into blocks of 
two thousand tons, and then floated out to be 
placed in situ for the breakwater. 

Yokkichi was our next stopping place to take on 
a large consignment of porcelain from the works at 
Nagoya. It gave something of a home feeling to 
see many of the boxes marked with the well known 
name of a San Francisco firm. Then at Shimidzu 
some four hundred tons of tea was put on board the 
fighters coming along very leisurely as if they already 
symbolized in bulk the repose and relaxation of the 
social afternoon hour assigned to the cup of that 

[184] 



JAPANESE HARBOR IMPRESSIONS 

beverage. The scenery around the harbor was 
attractive, and then we had some fine views of the 
famous snow mountain and extinct volcano Fuji- 
yama. In the evening came our first experience of a 
wireless message in an invitation over the wires from 
relatives in Yokohama, which we reached the next 
morning. The thoughtful hospitaUty of the home 
of Mr. and Mrs. Payne to which we were welcomed, 
providing even for our going and coming in the 
harbor with a special launch, and for our getting 
about generally for shopping and sightseeing, would 
have in itself guaranteed the happiest memories of 
Yokohama. And we were able to spend a Httle time 
in Tokyo, visiting the Mission buildings and points 
of interests. The staff of our Church workers, 
numbering in it Bishop and Mrs. McKim and other 
old friends, were for the most part on vacation at the 
time — early in August — and we missed the pleasure 
of seeing them, but Miss Wallace acted most satis- 
factorily as our guide, and enabled us to appreciate 
the more fully the remarkable accompHshment our 
Mission has made and the promises for the furture 
if it can have even half of the support it deserves. 
These passing ghmpses upon Japanese progress in 
its own habitat left much to be desired in the way of 
fuller opportunity, but they did confirm, so far as 
they went, some reflections upon race contacts which 
his visit to Cliina had also deepened, and to which 
the Saunterer has found his thoughts directed in the 
whole question of the prime modern problem of race 
relations. And few people who keep their eyes and 
ears open to what is going on in the world can 
escape queries as to what is to be the outcome of the 
readier communications, the minglings and the 
shiftings of the races of today. 

First, there are the sharp and signal contrasts. 
On the one hand at the point of race contact there 

[185] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

are Mission plants, and agencies sampling the high 
types of the particular races concerned. Pick out 
some good man or woman undeniably devoted, body 
and soul, willing to spend and be spent for the uplift 
of the race ministered to, and making a mission 
center a recognized boon to the humanity it reaches. 
When such an one does the work and preaches or 
teaches the Word, with it all goes that taking "knowl- 
edge of him that he has been with Jesus." That all 
amounts to this that He "who has made of one 
blood all nations of men for to dwell on the face of 
the whole world," would have, at the point of contact 
the best type possible to influence the race reached. 
But in the sphere of that same influence converts 
are gathered who also stand tests of character and 
type that rank high. Martyr converts there have 
been in abundance to prove this. The distinct 
phenomenon then is that where there is the true spirit 
of Christ, races at the point of contact develop the 
higher qualities, and that when imbued with that 
spirit one goes over the Hne to help the other race, 
Iflie evokes like, and the higher type, let us say of an 
American missionary, brings out the higher type of 
the Japanese. This is one side of the contrast. 

And turn to that other and disturbing side, and 
that side that is perhaps more obvious and more 
widespread. Slum conditions in our great seaports 
are apt to show marked race jumbHngs. Their 
degradations are often the mutual dragging down of 
these of different colors. Bad makes bad. Lower 
type lowers type. Chinatowns, Red Light Districts, 
and all the centers of city life where plague spots 
exist and races are thrown together are crying 
evidence of race contacts which at the extreme of 
degeneracy exhibit the worst samphng of each race 
at the point of contact. 

[186] 



JAPANESE HARBOR IMPRESSIONS 

And so the startling contrast appeals to our 
civilization at home and abroad, Christ with Behal, 
mission with misery, noble manhood and womanhood 
grasping hands across the racial hnes for mutual 
uphft and sinking manhood and womanhood across 
the same hnes pulling each other down. On the 
simple matter of promotion of human progress, on 
the primary question of the refuge and rescue of 
civihzation itself, such phenomena everywhere would 
seem to silence the obstructor of the messenger of 
Christ, which is only another name for missionaries, 
and to stimulate thought in world terms that would 
make a new era in the propagation of the message of 
race betterment. And as in America we have had 
an almost unparalleled history of race contacts, 
white with the aboriginal red, white with the im- 
ported black, white with the yellow and brown 
overflow from the Orient and the Islands of the Sea, 
and all these colors with each other, we should be 
especially keen to lay this remedial course of uplift 
severely to heart. And we have the object lesson 
of a General Armstrong bringing out a Booker 
Washington, of a Dr. Breck and a Bishop Whipple 
bringing out an Emmagabowgh, and many another 
familiar illustration of best calling out best at point 
of race contact. 

And if missionary effort viewed from the dimen- 
sion of bulk sometimes seems so infinitesimal, and 
by count of noses and statistics the forces seem so 
lost in the hundreds of millions of population with 
which they are dealing, let us be quick to remember 
that bulk is not by any means the principal guage 
of result. The "drop in the bucket" or the "what 
are they among so many" kind of approach to an 
estimate is not the intelhgent nor philosophical one. 
As a leader in the missionary field has sagaciously 
put it, "the germ theory is the proper one to have 

[187] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

in mind as you think upon missionary accomplish- 
ment." A little germ once introduced into the 
system does not function in proportion to its relative 
size as compared with the human body. Indeed it 
may be microscopic and the body huge. But once 
in it permeates throughout the system from its 
properties of circulation. The little speck trans- 
forms the whole vitahty, and the Uttle band of 
faithful missionaries fringing the heathen myriads 
that in numerical statistics to many have seemed so 
neghgible, and to some so impossible, have had not 
a little to do with revolutionizing great Empires. 
Let thoughtful people but disabuse their minds of the 
bulk notion and discern the germ power of Christ 
that " Cometh without observation" and it will 
dawn upon them that the "right hand of the Lord 
it is that bringeth mighty things to pass" with the 
races of men. Japan, we are told, is allowing its 
Bushido, its ancient code of Chivalry to sHp away. 
Race regeneration, if it is to come, can come from 
Christian contacts, if Christianity is true to itself 
and to its Christ. 



[188] 



PLOUGHING THE PACIFIC 

THE " Toyo Kisen Kabushiki Kaisha S. S. 
Tenyo Maru, Voyage 16" on our Table Seat 
Card, was in evidence of Japanese enter- 
prise in shipping matters on the Pacific as 
we settled down in that large comfortable "Liner" 
for our voyage across the ocean. And Captain 
Ernest Bent, an English master with Japanese 
officers under him, we found to be a guarantee of 
safety and courtesy as well as a further evidence of 
Japanese aptitude in working their gradual transi- 
tion into a traffic power on the Pacific. Passengers 
fike to get to know an agreeable captain at his table. 
But they also like to know that he is on the "bridge" 
when weather or sea or close coast sounding need 
attention. And no higher comphment could be 
paid to our captain than to say he admirably filled 
both of these positions. And a ship disciphne 
certainly cannot be the easier when officers as well 
as crew are of different races, and the order was 
unruffled as was in remarkable degree the sea itself, 
on our way over. Going out of Yokohama things 
looked typhoony for a while and a heavy slap of a 
wave against the high windows of the dining saloon 
when we were at dinner gave us that kind of a sea 
jolt which seems to say "cheer up, the worst is yet 
to come, " but we fortunately were only on the edge 
of the storm and soon ran out of it. Even with the 
big ships typhoons give navigators something to 
think about, and we were fortunate in the Orient in 
just missing those dread tossers more than once. 
Harbor and coast currents too have their own 
menace, and we passed when outward bound from 

[189] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

Yokohama the large Canadian Pacific Steamer 
"Empress of China" on the rocks, having been 
diverted from her course as was supposed by subtle 
currents. The longer voyage across the Pacific 
differs in some respects from the "ferry transit" of 
the Atlantic, and especially in the extended comrade- 
ship of the ship's company. An old friend too was 
found aboard, Mrs. Welch of Stockton. But there 
were also way-passengers, and among them Dr. 
Timothy Edwards, who was en route from Shanghai 
to Japan, proved to be very helpful to the Saunterer 
in gathering up his impressions of China. Dr. 
Edwards, as a veteran missionary of the Baptist 
Church, is the author of the "New Testament of 
Higher Buddhism" and of other works. His long 
and close study of Buddhism had convinced him 
that a change came over the older Buddhism, 
beginning about the first century of the Christian 
Era — it may be from some possible contacts with 
St. Thomas Christians of India — and that what we 
should call a kind of then "modernism" was intro- 
duced into it. One feature of this change was a 
revision of the old tenet of re-incarnation in the 
direction of advancing from a process with no con- 
stant Divine agency into one where distinct Divine 
agency was affirmed as a factor co-operating in the 
process. Knowing locaHties as he did Dr. Edwards 
also pointed out a sharply outhned bluff in Japan 
near Nagasaki from which many Christians were 
pushed into the sea under the persecution of them in 
the seventeenth century. 

If we were attempting pen pictures of scenery in 
these Saunterings, as we are not, many a fascinating 
outlook on land and water would find its record in 
the "log" of a trans-Pacific voyage with its landfalls 
and anchorages. Fujiyama alone would be entitled 
to much space. And one moonlit evening on the 

[190] 



PLOUGHING THE PACIFIC 

water, with the twinkhng of many Kghts from fleets 
of fishing boats in the distance, and the play of 
hghtning over clouds far astern would afford the 
motif for enthusiastic, if not novel nor worthy des- 
cription. And in a more practical chapter could be 
detailed the contrast the Saunterer found between 
the marvel of machinery he first saw as a boy visitor 
on the "Great Eastern" and later as a passenger on 
the "Germanic" about a generation ago, and that 
with expansion of power and singular contraction of 
bulk space and enginery in the triple screw mech- 
anism of the "Tenyo Maru. " And the descent into 
the lower parts of the ship was supplemented through 
the invitation of Captain Bent by a visit to some of 
the higher parts. In the office of the bridge, charts 
and courses were explained to the Saunterer. At 
the time we were at a point where the water was 
three miles deep. It was evident, too, that the 
compass as a figure for the human conscience could 
not be fully pressed, as there were by the bridge 
three compasses on three different levels and no 
two agreeing to an exactitude. Three consciences 
in the same individual would not do at all, even 
though weak human nature is sometimes accredited 
with two. 

Of course the "wireless" man, a young Japanese, 
in his "Hghtning shop " aloft on the sky deck — and he 
is a kind of new exhibit of a "sky pilot" — practices 
his wizardry to the admiration of all. We had the 
customary bulletin of world news at our plates on 
going to dinner and invitations and greetings were 
often passing from ship to shore. Nobody now can 
quote Horace's '' Dissociabilis Oceanus'' without 
running the risk of being classified as "a land lubber 
lying down below." 

Then for the first time in his Ufe the Saunterer had 
two Mondays following each other. Fortunately 

[191] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

for the Parson there was nothing hke a double dose 
of "Blue Monday!" On the contrary the sensation 
was rather enjoyable, Uke extending a happy "week 
end." As we had "chased the sun" all the way 
around we did not have the often commented upon 
experience of those who first "drop a day" in going 
from the United States over the Pacific to the Orient 
and then pick it up again on their return. Extracts 
from Philhps Brooks' note book, given in his life, are 
characteristic, as he had the experience. On the 
day omitted he writes: "Monday, July 1st. (1889). 
The lost day I Think what might have come of it! 
The undone deeds! The unsaid words!" Certainly, 
he had no reason to be pensive over a "day lost" in 
the sense in which the phrase was used by another: 
"I deem that day lost which has no good deed to its 
credit." Then on his return Philhps Brooks again 
comments: "Losing a Tuesday going over and 
picking up a Thursday coming back. August 
28th, 1889, hved twice on the Pacific." And how 
httle could that great lover of "the Hub" have 
intended the "fortuitous concom-se" of having a 
note like that in immediate association in his jour- 
nal with a memorandum of a day on the far-off 
Pacific "hved twice," to-wit: "The Shinto (Ancestor- 
worship) of Boston!" 

It was with no httle gratification that this Jap- 
anese ship was found amply provided with prayer 
books and hymnals and in the spacious cabin rever- 
ent and largely attended services were held on the 
Sundays with ready co-operation in the music and 
good responses. 

Abundant provision was made for occupation and 
entertainment on the extended voyage. A hbrary 
for the bookish, piano and graphophone for the musi- 
cally inchned, bathing tank forward for the swimmers, 
baseball for active athletes, emd the other more usual 

[192] 



PLOUGHING THE PACIFIC 

ship games. Then the steerage passengers, mostly 
Japanese, gave frequent exhibitions of wrestling, act- 
ing, etc., which were of the nature of National Char- 
acter-sketches. The Saunterer had laid in a good 
stock of "The Wisdom of the East Series," published 
by John Murray, London, giving expert information 
about the great Rehgions of the Orient, with many 
first hand extracts from authoritative documents. 
The reading of them just after his outlook upon 
Oriental life seemed to him to make them welcome 
to any one in sympathy with the object stated in the 
common editorial note of Messrs. Granmer Byng 
and S. A.'Kapadin, "They desire above all things" — 
so the note avows — "that in their humble way these 
books shall be the ambassadors of good will and 
understanding between the East and the West — ^the 
Old world of Thought and the New of Action . . . 
They are confident that a deeper knowledge of the 
great ideals and lofty philosophy of Oriental thought 
may help to a revival of that true spirit of Charity 
which neither depresses nor fears the nations of 
another Creed and Color." 

Moreover, much of this "Wisdom of the East" 
is of that dreamy, mystic. Nirvana character like 
Lao Tzu's "Doctrine of Inaction," which seems to 
befit a steamer chair Hterature on a sunny deck, 
when the eyes Hfted from the page are met every- 
where beyond the rail with the strange spell of 
the ocean and the reader drops off into his own 
dreamland. If there is the mystic sense of gloom 
and glory under the spell of the sky-hne of 
great mountain peaks there is certainly soothing 
and searching of spirit in scanning the horizon water- 
lines of the sky as the voyager speeds along over the 
sea in its gentler moods. 



[193] 



HONOLULU AND THE 
HOME-COMING 

THE last arc of the globe circuit, the home- 
stretch from Honolulu to San Francisco, was 
signaHzed first by a wireless invitation re- 
ceived the day before we reached Honolulu, 
from Bishop Restarick and the Men's Club to lunch 
with them during our stop there. "Bird Island" 
and "Egg Island" hke lonely outposts for the 
approach to Hawaii, jutting up out of the ocean, 
were menacing signs that we were nearing larger 
land. The Saunterer had not visited Honolulu since 
1902, when he was sent to represent the Presiding 
Bishop in accepting the formal transfer of that See 
by Bishop Willis, its devoted Head for many years, 
to the American Church. The interval had given 
time to note how admirably Bishop Restarick and 
his clergy and laity had buUt upon the foundations 
and enlarged the life and influence of the Church. 
The completion of the fine Cathedral, the new build- 
ings erected in the Cathedral Close, with their 
healthy institutional life, the well-estabhshed Sea- 
men's Institute, the extension of the work outside 
the See City and in the other Islands of the Terri- 
tory and the general factorship of the Church in the 
community, all was most notable. And the renew- 
ing of old friendships and the alert hospitaKty of 
Bishop and Mrs. Restarick, General Davis and 
Major Davis and others was a sort of foretaste of 
the return to San Francisco itself — ^fragrant as a 
sandal- wood fire on the hearth, before which in a 
cabin on the heights of Palehua with our genial 
hosts, Mr. and Mrs. von Holt, it was at that former 
visit the unique privilege of the Saunterer to sit. 

[194] 



HONOLULU— THE HOME-COMING 

As day followed day, more "motion" and cooler 
air and the passing of outbound steamers — our isola- 
tion on the great waters had been emphasized hith- 
erto by our seeing almost no craft of any sort between 
ports — were all helping us in our glad realization of 
nearness to the Gahfornia coast. And on Thursday, 
August 24th, whistUngs and sirens awoke us early 
to see the famihar Farallones. 

Soon anchored at quarantine, by the courtesy of 
Mr. Stratton, Collector of the Port, Archdeacon 
Emery came aboard from the launch to welcome us, 
and as we neared the landing, a large group of clergy 
and laity greeted us. Again, by the courtesy of the 
Collector, we were detained but a short time on the 
wharf for the thorough customs examination, and 
Mrs. Monteagle with her car soon took us to our 
home where many flowers and a happy family 
reunion awaited us. The Early Celebration the next 
morning in the private chapel best expressed our 
gratitude for the singular blessings and mercies of 
our "World Encompassed" and of the Diocese in the 
absence. The pathetic accident which took from us 
Cecil Marrack in his promising young manhood and 
injured others of the clergy, of which tidings could 
not reach the Saunterer until a month after it hap- 
pened, owing to his Trans-Siberian journey, had left 
the sad vacancy. But the Archdeacon and the 
Standing Committee and all had given especial atten- 
tion to Diocesan details so that there was httle or 
no arrearage of Episcopal work. And to crown the 
whole undertaking of the Diocese in connection with 
the twentieth anniversary there was a welcome 
home luncheon of the clergy and laity and a great 
reception at the Palace Hotel by the church people 
and friends, with greetings that went to the Saun- 
terer's heart from the Rev. Dr. Bakewell, Mr. George 
E. Butler and others. 

[195] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

The late critics of the old hymn "Coronation'* 
may have been justified in eliminating the words 
"terrestrial balV by canons of poetic taste, but the 
Saunterer had no manner of doubt of the accuracy 
of the description completing his "World Circuit." 
And he put some of the deeper sentiment of it all in 
the Pastoral Letter issued soon after his return, as 
follows: 

DIOCESE OF CALIFORNIA. 
My Dear People: 

Full of gratitude to God and to you is my happy 
home-coming. For all the freedom from ill in the 
"journeyings oft," for the buoyant health to enjoy 
each day as it came and for the preservation from 
harm of the dear ones at home, for the wider vision 
from travel as for all the countless blessings of His 
merciful providence to mine and to me in our trip 
around the world the Heavenly Father's name be 
praised! And to you of the Diocese who planned 
this surprise for my twentieth anniversary in 1910 
and made such bountiful provision for Mrs. Nichols 
and my daughter to enjoy it with me and so for me 
to enjoy it so completely with them, again with the 
actual experience of it all now outreaching anything 
that I could — and I doubt whether you could — 
anticipate in both pleasure and profit, I thank you 
from a feehng sounding the very depths of our now 
more than twenty-one years of association in my 
sacred ofiice. And the group on the wharf, the 
many messages, the fragrance of the flowers that 
filled home and ofiice and aU the thought to speed 
our journey to our home have thrown a glow of 
welcome over every one of these first days with "you 
again. And with the same thoughtful consideration 
that proffered the leave of absence and then extended 
it, the Standing Committee have not only acted 

[196] 



HONOLULU— THE HOME-COMING 

most reKevingly as the Ecclesiastical Authority, but 
they and the Archdeacon and one and all throughout 
the Diocese have studiously kept me immune from 
all Diocesan care, not to say current thought of 
things happening, so that, save in our common sor- 
row at the tragic though triumphant death of dear 
Mr. Marrack in the splendid promise for the ministry 
of his young manhood, and some sad changes in 
other homes, the period away has been one singu- 
larly adjusted to that fallow condition of heart and 
mind which is such a boon for recuperation in them, 
as for material fields. 

A consideration which has had some solace with 
me in reaHzing that such a privilege had come to me 
to which on any ground of faithfulness or steward- 
ship in duty I was no more entitled than many others 
of the clergy and laity in the Diocese, is the hope 
and purpose that out of it for the remaining years of 
my Episcopate I may be enabled to turn the office 
to higher account for the work. Your generous 
wheremthal ought at least to bring that return as 
an investment. 

The passing through many lands and phases of 
world-life in circling the earth leaves one with com- 
plex impressions, for the analysis of which a lifetime 
is none too much. The film, so to speak, exposed to 
the moving scenes requires a long time for their full 
development. We are all prone to hasty general- 
izations and must not be too quick to draw our con- 
clusions from what we see from a car window or take 
as snap-shots anywhere. Travelers' tales sometimes 
seem least accurate to those really best and most 
carefully informed about their topics. I venture to 
think, however, that there are some things clearly 
and conclusively determined by such an experience 
which may have a value of their own in our common 
hope and effort for Christ and the Church. 

[1971 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

To visit Palestine and Syria, parts of that great 
peninsula of Arabia from which it has been noted 
came originally the three highest faiths and only 
universal rehgions of the world — Judaism, Chris- 
tianity and Mohammedanism — is to be impressed 
anew with the profound truth of history that, as 
Garlyle has well put it, "The most important fact 
about any nation is its rehgion." We need to con- 
stantly remind ourselves of the taking this for granted 
in the Bible as essentially and fully as every part of 
the mighty ship must take for granted the most 
important fact about it which is that the whole ship 
floats. The fundamental conmiand in the Old Tes- 
tament is not to have the one rehgion as contrasted 
with no rehgion, the one God as over against no God, 
but Thou shalt have no other gods before me. That 
is, your rehgion being the vital question, as a people, 
by common consent, and there being no manner of 
doubt that your main racial or individual trait is 
just that, you must keep it true. The same thing is 
exhibited in His underlying knowledge of mankind 
when our Lord gave that primary charge to His 
Apostles to "make disciples of all nations." As 
nations as well as individuals their discipleship was 
the determining trait, whether to Christ or some 
other one. It perhaps presents this old truth to us 
in local and present day appraisal to say that it 
amounts to this : In any bringing together of world 
notes of progress or hall marks of pure civihzation, 
say as in our World's Fair, the highest awards of all 
would belong in the Department of Rehgion, if it 
were practicable, as it is not, to have such a depart- 
ment judged, as history has judged, is everywhere 
judging and will judge it. 

Next, if rehgion is the most important fact of any 
race or nation, the most crucial test of the religion of 
any race or nation is the racial or national conscience. 

[1981 




Bishop's House, 2515 Webster Street, San Francisco 

Tu, Domine, benedic hanc familiam Tuam. Prayer from old Communion 
Office over the hearthstone of the Library in the Bishop's House. 



HONOLULU— THE HOME-COMING 

We may use of it the familiar term, "the public 
conscience." We do not need to go away from home 
to appreciate the menace there is to national welfare 
in any weakening or searing the pubUc conscience. 
The citizen, to say nothing of the Christian, must be 
dense or deluded who does not know where it would 
ultimately land us, if for example,' ordinary honesty 
should pass from being common to being uncommon 
in business or in poHtics. There; is no such thing 
possible as a Conscienceless Christian Civilization. 
But even a cursory observer of life in that great 
Orient can see that it is showing signs and stirrings 
of new pulsations as if there were to be wider move- 
ment to act upon the maxim of one of its great sages, 
Lao Tsu, "Live in harmony with your age." And 
one can hardly fail to note on the distinctly positive 
side of all this both the dawning of a sense of lack of 
public conscience and, in some quarters at least, a 
groping for it. Egypt, Syria, Palestine, China, 
Japan, all in varying degrees and with conditions so 
formidable that they are the despair rather than the 
hope of many, seem to be in this process of self- 
discovery. In the instinct for constitutional reform 
which is in its earhest stages in Turkey and China, 
and in Russia, for example, there is well marked 
hunger for righteousness which has in it none other 
than a national beatitude for pubHc conscience, if 
they will but know it. I cannot, of course, take time 
here to marshal the data for this or to follow these 
great world facts into several suggestive hues of 
treatment that appeal to a thoughtful student of 
them. Suffice it to say that contact with them has 
had the effect upon me of fanning a new enthusiasm 
for humanity, and not only that but also of kind- 
ling anew an earnest wish to try to pass that enthu- 
siasm along to others and so to every one I can 
reach or influence in the Diocese. And my heart 

[199] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

yearns to serve my clergy and Diocese as I have 
never served them before. 

And one peculiarity of this enthusiasm is that 
somehow it seems different from the old familiar 
impulse to "push Church work." It is no mere 
conventional missionary motive warmed over. The 
map of mankind becomes vastly scaled up. Every 
ruined temple of past civilizations, every mosque and 
synagogue vocal today with human voices is vision- 
ful of opportunity because it proves when all is said 
and done in the generations of men that the ehief 
concern is religion, however much any passing absorp- 
tions of any place or statesman or age or philosophers 
may obscure that. And if that reHgion has not 
dowered its people with pubHc conscience its doom 
is sealed. And whatever elements of wholesome life 
it may have contained (and all the great rehgions in 
theory afford some) unless it creates and conserves 
a pubHc conscience, in so far as it fails in that, it 
becomes decadent. Here is a thrilHng conception of 
what Christ contributes to civihzation, if his follow- 
ers will once take it seriously and act upon it! The 
pubHc conscience must be the final test of Christian 
civihzation. 

To catch the spirit of such a cause for Chris- 
tianity and the Church is in itself invigorating and 
elevating. If I may coin an awkward but expressive 
word, it makes us civilizationaries just because we 
are missionaries. It helps us to become big-eyed, 
not short-sighted in outlook; we lose pettiness of self 
or sphere in the vision. And if you ask me how as 
clergy and laity of the Diocese we are practically to 
put ourselves more fully under the power of such an 
enthusiasm, I will venture to suggest two very 
definite ways: 

First: We must all reaHze and deepen our call to 
service for our fellow man, constrained by that so 

[200] 



HONOLULU— THE HOME-COMING 

mystical and yet so convincing and precious power 
in the heart, which is Christ's gift to us, of love. 
That must be the deep down spur to service. Our 
credentials as Christians must show that we are 
trying to be of some use to our world wherever it 
may he. The searching question for each of us is, 
where can I point my finger at any such service I 
am doing today? 

And the next answer I would offer is that and 
above the personal service we can render to those 
with whom we come into direct relation, we must 
provide out of what God gives us, for proxy service 
to those who are out of range of our personal power 
or touch. That is our call to do our part in Christian 
civiKzation as the Orient needs it. 

Let us of the clergy more faithfully carry into 
effect our purpose to set an example by ever more 
widely putting aside from our incomes stated regular 
amounts for this purpose. And let our laity supply 
the part that needs most strengthening in om* offer- 
ing systems, that of self-apportionment, back of all 
other steps and systems of Church apportionments, 
of what they ought to give based upon careful esti- 
mates and percentages on their own initiative, as 
God has prospered them. 

Pubhc conscience among Christians in this one 
particular of loving service to our fellow men and 
of giving on principle to further it in all the earth 
would be a most practical and effective agency to 
quicken and maintain a healthy pubhc conscience in 
all our civic as well as Church affairs. After all, 
pubhc conscience is but the aggregate of private 
conscience. Let us take seriously this truth that the 
most important fact about any one of us is our 
personal rehgion, that it is the best justification of 
our place in modern civihzation, the most pressing 
debt we owe to our age and ourselves, the very 

[201] 



SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUNTERINGS 

vitality to be fed by Sacrament and by Church. 
And the personal audit of that personal religion is 
itself an examination of the showing how far we are 
"making a conscience of our ways." This pubHc 
conscience of the Christian community must shape 
that of the Christian nations as that of the Christian 
nations must shape that of the Christian civilization 
of the world, when the kingdoms of the world 
become the Kingdom of Christ. 

Rejoicing to be with you again and praying that 
one and all may be blessed with high endeavor to 
share in this glorious opening of our century and our 
civilization for Christ, 

I am, my dear people, 

Yours very faithfully and affectionately, 
WILLIAM F. NICHOLS. 

Bishop's OflSce, 
Diocesan House, 
San Francisco, 

24 August, 1911. 



202] 



INDEX 



INDEX 



AbEina River, 69 

Acropolis, 32 

Alexander II. Bible, 144 

Alexandria, 41 

Algiers, 8 

Amerigo Vespucci, Home of, 26 

Ampthill, 127 

Anti-Lebanon, 68 

Appian Way, 16 

Assisi, home of St. Francis, 20 

Athens, 28 

Avignon, 112 

Azove Islands, 7 

Baalbek, 66 

Beatitudes, Mount of, 81 

Beu-ut, 64 

Bent, Captain Ernest, 189 

Berlin, 140 

Bethlehem, 94 

Bourn, Mr. and Mrs. Wm. B., 

135 
Brussels, 138 
Burhngame, Anson, 164 
Cairo, 54 

Cana of Galilee, 82 
Canterbury, Archbishop of, 119 
Capernaum, 77 
Carmel, 85 
Carthusian Monastery of San 

Martino, 9 
Catacombs of Rome, 17 
"Character Enlightening the 

World," a suggestion, 22 
Chinese Life, Impressions of, 

160 
Christian Relics in Egypt, 51, 

52 
Church cars, 6 
Cologne Cathedral, 139 



Commencement at St. John's, 
Shanghai, 168 

Constantinople, 36 

Convocation of Canterbury, 
124 

Dalney — Dairen, 159 

Damascus, 69 

Davidson, Dr. Randall, 119 

Davis, General and Major, 194 

Dorchester House, 122 

Dragoman Gladius Morgan, 54 

Edwards, Dr. Timothy, Bap- 
tist Missionary, 190 

El-Azhar, Mohammedan Uni- 
versity, 56, 57 

El-Mollaka, oldest Church in 
Cairo, 59 

Esdraelon, 84 

Fell, Rev. and Mrs. James, 133 

Fletcher, Rev. Francis, 130 

Florence, 26 

Forman, Mr. and Mrs. Robert 
B., 131 

Fox How, 133 

Fujiyama, 190 

Galilee, Sea of, 76 

Germ Theory as appUed to 
Missionary work, 187-188 

Gibraltar, 7 

Good Friday in Jerusalem, 101 

Goshen, Land of, 62 

Haran-esh Sherif, 91 

High Pastures — Mossley Hill, 
131 

"Hill School," Athens, 34 

Holy Sepulchre, The, 102 

Honolulu — Bishop Restarick 
Men's Club, 194 

House of Commons, 125 



[205] 



INDEX— Continued 



House of Lords, 125 

Ingram, Dr. Winnington, 119 

Jaffa Gate, 89 

Jaffa-Joppa, 106 

Japanese Harbor Impressions, 
183 

Jerusalem, 89 

Jordan River, 98 

Kobe, 184 

Kremlin, The, 150 

Lafayette, Grave of, 115 

Lebanon, 65 

Liverpool Cathedral, 132 

London, 124 

London, Bishop of, 119 

Mars Hill, 30 

Missionaries at Work, 165 

Mohkanshan, 173 

Momentum sui generis in Na- 
tive Leadership and Influ- 
ence, 180 

Mondays — Two in succession, 
191 

Moscow, 147 

Muckross House and Abbey, 
135 

Mummies, 50 

Nagasaki, women coal heavers, 
183 

"Name of the Church" in Rus- 
sia, 147 

Naples, 9 

Native Christianity which 
rings true in character, 179 

Nativity, Chapel of the, 94 

Nazareth, 82 

Nicolls, Richard, 127 

Nfle Trip, The, 47 

Paris, 113 

Pastoral Letter, 196 

Payne, Mr. and Mrs., at Yoko- 
hama, 185 

Perugia, 25 

Pompeii, 10 



Recreation of Missionaries,172 
Reid, Ambassador and Mrs., 

122 
ReHgious Railroad, A, 74 
Restarick, Bishop and Mrs., 

194 
Results of Race-Contacts and 

Type Contacts, 186 
Robertson, Rev. John J., 

American Missionary, 33 
Rome, 12 
Russian Church in Cahfomia, 

148 
Santa Clara, Convent of, 23 
Saint Francis, 21 
Saint Gregory, Church of, 14 
Saint Irene, Second General 

Council, 39 
Saint Isaacs Cathedral, 143 
Saint John's University, 167 
Santa Maria Maggiore, Church 

of (decorations made of first 

gold from America), 19 
Saint Peter's, Rome, 15 
Saint Petersburgh, 142 
Saint Sophia, 37 
San Francisco, Church of, 24 
Santa Barbara, Church of, 59 
Seabury, Bishop Samuel, 118 
Seamen Society, 126 
Self-Help developed in Chris- 

tiein Missions, 177 
Shanghai, 160 

ShepheEird's Hotel, Cairo, 45 
Shimidzu-Fujiyama, 184 
Sphinx, The, 48 
Stamboul, 36 

Street called "Straight," 70 
Symposium at Mohkanshan, 

176-181 
Syracuse, 110 
"Tenyo Maru," The, 191 
Testimony for Missions of two 

American Business Men, 166 



[206] 



INDEX— Continued 

Trans-Siberian Trip, 153 Wisdom of the East, 193 

Vatican Mss. of N. T., 15 Wusih, School of Gatechists, 

von Holt, Mr. and Mrs., 194 169 

Wallace, Miss, 185 Yokkichi, 184 

Waterloo, 137 Yokohama, 185 
Welcome Home, 195 



207 






HERE ENDS SOME WORLD-CIRCUIT SAUN- 
TERINGS, AS WRITTEN BY WILLIAM FORD 
NICHOLS, BISHOP OF CALIFORNIA, AFTER 
HIS SAUNTERINGS AROUND THE WORLD. 
PUBLISHED IN BOOK FORM BY PAUL ELDER 
& COMPANY, AND SEEN THROUGH THEIR 
TOMOYE PRESS BY JOHN SWART, IN THE 
CITY OF SAN FRANCISCO, DURING THE 
MONTH OF DECEMBER, NINETEEN HUN- 
DRED AND THIRTEEN. 



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